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Thanks Plyscamp,

Is that 35hp the Vanguard model from B/S? Did that include everything like the air cleaner and muffler? Sounds like a great price. Any suggestions on a supplier?

If the speed of cutting really goes up, a clutch, what, about $275, seems like a cheap price to pay every 300 hrs. I've only had to change mine once, when it goes it starts locking up when it should be freewheeling, is that what yours do when they go out?

So the engine shaft size on the 35 is the same as the 25? Must be for the clutch/pulley to bolt right on. Also, are the holes that the hyd pump sliding bracket bolts to the same as the 25? That would be great news. So belts to jackshaft were still factory Vermeer?

To upgrade to a 1.5" jackshaft, where did you find the pulley and sheave for each end, since factory inside dia. is 1.25? or did you just install a bushing? Did you put the third pillow block in the center? Are you using the same /?Vermeer pillow blocks as the 1.5" for the cutter wheel shaft? I've been going through jackshafts this year (3) like crazy, about every 100 hrs, just snapping in two at the pillow block. Vermeer has been comping me for them, they think that Vermeer changed the shaft and started milling a flat spot for the set screws on the bearing, they think that is just enough to weaken them. They said they are going to stop doing that, apparently I'm not the only one with this problem. Anyway, I put on about 600 hours a year.

I suppose the wiring wasn't too difficult to adapt either.

Sorry for all the questions, but this sounds like a great upgrade to an otherwise reliable machine. I've not had a single engine or hydraulic problem (except a couple of hoses) in over 2280 hours on the 2003 machine.
 
Consider also the new Kohler 38hp unit. Were fitting those to our grinders, and they are awsome.
 
I'm going to get the mod kit fitted to my machine even though I haven't had or got any problems, but i'm not happy one bit about parting with £400, Vermeer HQ if your reading this you've just lost a customer!
 
Yes the engine is the 35HP B/S Vangaurd V Twin. I purchased it from Brand New Engines on Ebay. They make this engine in a 1 1/8" Dia. and a 1 7/16" Dia. crankshaft. With the electric clutch you will need a 1 7/16" shaft. This particular engine included Muffler, Key switch, alternator Etc. Etc. Etc. . The Vermeer clutch adjustment case bolts right up to the engine just like the Kohler.

When a clutch fails on my unit it slips under power like a loose belt.

The diesel unit is and inline twin and is about 4" wider than the V Twin Briggs. This means that the jack shaft had to be extend 4" on the clutch side of the engine to line up with the clutch. We welded an extension plate to the jack shaft bearing surface to add the third Bearing and made a new 1 1/2" shaft out of 4130 steel at the machine shop. This step is not required on the Briggs engine.
If you continue to break the vermeer jackshafts go to a machlne shop and have them build you one thats made from 1 1/2" Dia. 4130 Steel and upgrade the bearings to 1 1/2".

For the clutch belts I use a married 2 band B width belt that I buy from Bestorq on line Part # 2/B65 $14.90 + Frght.
 
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Thanks again plyscamp,

If I go with a 1.5" jackshaft would I still have to go down to 1.25" at each end to accomodate Vermeer's pulleys? On your diesel, did you do that, or find different pulley and sheave for each end at 1.5"? How does the 4130 steel differ from factory Vermeers?

Are you using the same pulleys, just a different belt from the engine to the jackshaft? I've never had any problems with those belts, but maybe the 35hp Briggs would eat them up? The price sounds pretty cheap too for the 2 band b width belt.

Are your 252's high hour machines like mine, still going strong frame and hydraulics-wise? Have you had to replace the large pivot bushings? That seems like quite a job, the Vermeer guy doesn't like to do it, says it could be $500-$750 in labor for the lower one. Seems hard to believe, doesn't look that hard to me. Mine are a bit sloppy, but should go awhile yet, grease them daily.

Starting to get some rain up here, should knock the dust back for the season.

Thanks,
Stumper63
 
The larger shaft & bearings only raise the shaft 1/8", so the standard Vermeer pulley's work fine.

The 4130 steel is a much stronger than the soft steel Vermeer uses in there shaft.

As for hours the diesel unit is at 2,680 Hours, the B/S has 267 Hours on it.

That lower bushing you are referring to is a PITA. I tried on 2 different occasions to replace mine with no success I tried heat, air hammers you name it and it would not budge. I finally cutt it out with a 7" cutt off wheel. Not wanting to do it again EVER, I welded in two pieces of square tubing and mounted 2 ea. 1 1/4" pillow block bearings and a longer shaft for it to pivot on. Now if there is a problem I just have pull 2 bolts to replace a bearing.
 
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Hi Plyscamp,

If I have a better jackshaft made up to 1.5", how do you use the same Vermeer pulleys? They are 1.25" I.D., so would have to mill the ends of the new 1.5" jackshaft down to1.25" where the pulleys install. Is that what you did?

The Vermeer jackshaft is 1.5" in the center but drops down to 1.25" before going into the pillow blocks, so keeping the shaft at 1.5" through the bearings and out at least to the pulleys sounds better, esp if using a better grade of steel.

Did you have any engine clearance issues, like when the boom is completely raised, not hitting the gas tank/oil tank cover? Seems like the 35hp is a bit taller than the 25, was just wondering if you had to take that into account when deciding where to position the engine on the plate, or if it just isn't an issue.

Sounds like you are still using the Vermeer belt from the jackshaft to the cutter wheel. Does it seem to handle the increased hp and torque from either the 35hp or your diesel okay? Not going through them too fast?

Looks like the price is not much greater for a new 35hp than a new 27hp, so might as well upgrade when time comes!

Thanks again, Stumper63
 
Both of the jack shaft pulleys have center hubs which are bored to 1.25". Go to a local bearing supply house and buy replacement center hubs that are bored to 1.5".

There are no clearance issues with the Briggs engine, it is taller but everything clears.

So far on the Briggs the lower belt is holding, but it has only been a couple of weeks. On the Diesel I changed the lower pulleys and I run 3 ea. BX45 (5/8") Belts instead of Vermeers belt. Much cheaper and handles the load better.
 
HI Plyscamp,

It's been a month or so, how's the 252 with the 35hp Briggs doing? Belts, shafts, and bearings holding up? Still cutting like a beast at half-throttle? The frame and hydraulics seem to hold up to the increased weight and hp don't they?
Anxious for the update!

Stumper63
 
All is well. machine is running great and no problems with the conversion so far. Getting ready to put one on a Kan Du for a friend of mine.

Gordy
 
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Thanks Gordy! Good to hear, when things slow down a bit I may try the conversion.
Stumper63
 
HI Plyscamp,

It's been a month or so, how's the 252 with the 35hp Briggs doing? Belts, shafts, and bearings holding up? Still cutting like a beast at half-throttle? The frame and hydraulics seem to hold up to the increased weight and hp don't they?
Anxious for the update!

Stumper63
"Cutting like a beast at half throttle" Better check your op. manual. Never heard any mfg. recommend grinding at half throttle.
 
I spent 20 years of my life writing those manuals and they will tell you everything the lawyers want you to know. It has taken the manufacturers 30 years to put enough horsepower and torque on these grinders so they are not continually struggling to get through a stump. With low horsepower and torque you better be running at full throttle or you will be forever grinding the stump.

It has only been about five years since performance was a bigger priority than the price point. I was involved with testing the Bandit 6" chipper before they brought it out in the early 90's. The test unit was equiped with a 35 H.P. Wisconsin. You could put a 6" log 100' long and it would eat it and never break a sweat. When they finally showed up in inventory they were equiped with Kohler's and you had to continually slow down the feed wheels on 6" material. The reason for the change was, they thought it would sell better at a lower price point.
 
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Hi Plyscamp,

What is the model # on that Vanguard 35hp you put on the 252? Was it the613477-0130? Want to make sure to order the right engine when the time comes. Also, did it come with a flywheel sensor so the auto-sweep would still work? Not critical since I don't use it w/ the 25hp Kohler anyway. Did yours come with a good muffler that exits out toward the cutting wheel, hence away from the operator?

How did the conversion go on the Kandu?

Stumper63
 
Stumper63

The 613477-0130 is the correct engine. The muffler (which was included) exits to the front (Cutting wheel end. Vermeer says thats the rear off the unit) and away from the operator. I have disconnected the AUTO SLEEP feature on all of my units so I am not sure if the sensor is there. There are a few wires on the rear of the engine we are not using.

Just completed the conversion on the Kant Do. It was a little more involved as the original engine was a Onan. The crankshaft on the Onan is 3.5" higher the Briggs. The unit went into service today I will let you know how it works out.
 
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252 Engine Upgrade

Hi Plyscamp,

Any long-term report for the 252 w/ the Vanguard 35hp? Getting close to making the switch. Can't seem to find one now for as cheap as you got yours with the muffler and all. Kohler is also now making a 38 and 40 hp Command Pro engine, same mounting specs as the Vanguard, but a little more torque. They're a fairly new model for Kohler, but if they last as long as my 25hp (2420 hrs, no problems) then should work good too. Comparable price as the Vanguard, maybe a little more.

Ever find a beefier clutch for the 252?

Could you explain again how you mounted bearings on the lower pivot shaft instead of the bushings? Mine are getting pretty sloppy, probably need to do something this winter, esp with a bigger engine.

Thanks for your input.
Stumper63
 
Hey guys, tho't I'd breathe a little life back into this thread. Recently, I discovered that I only had 2 bolts left holding my engine on the back side. 4 broken & 2 gone. The front side was still good.

Called my dealer, & he wasn't much help. "We'll fix it for ya, for a price. you're a full 6 months outta warranty." After a couple days of trying to fix it myself, I looked up this thread. Reading about the upgrade kit, I called Vermeer direct & confirmed the info that I'd read here. Got the Technical Service Bulletin # and verified that my machine fell into the group needing the upgrade.

Took machine and info to the dealer, & he got that deer in headlights look. He had sold me the machine while the upgrade/recall was in effect and hadn't bothered to apply it to my machine.

Long story short, they fixed it & honored the recall. Didn't cost me a thing. (well, besides the $70 in drill bits & 2 broken ez-outs when I tried to fix it) However, Had I not read this thread a while back, I would've been stuck with a repair bill.

Soooo, after all that I just wanna say thanks to the great guys on this site for sharing what turned out to be very valuable info. Y'all saved me a bunch of money.
 

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