Axe recommendations please

[hardpan]

Am just a 'hobby logger', but still like to just trim with an axe, as can enjoy the sound of the bite.

re: old tarpaper...reminded me of a trip to the upper Gaspe in the early 90's, there was still an operating log flume in operation. Only flume I have ever seen still operating (other than Disneyland <G>).

Too poor back in the '50s to own a chain saw, recall felling hickory, oak, and walnut in IL with crosscut saw and ax.
A neighbor near here still lived in tarpaper shack he built in the 30's until the late 80's, when he died the heirs sold his 5 acres for $3 MIL or so, shopping center there now.

Judging by the partial sample shown of your axe collection, may I guess you are a fan of the double bit. I only have one double bit, a cheap no-name I bought about 25 years ago and I worked it to good edges. I must say for pure cutting it is better than my single bits of equal sharpness. Maybe the single bit was only used when there was a need to also drive something. What say you? I have seen some old double bits with one sharp edge and one more blunt edge. I assumed one was for cutting and one was for splitting?

 

[madhatte]

What seems to be the best pattern for hardwood, the Dayton?

Preference seems to be regional. Dayton is common here, but elsewhere patterns like Jersey are more common.

 

[milkman]

Judging by the partial sample shown of your axe collection, may I guess you are a fan of the double bit. I only have one double bit, a cheap no-name I bought about 25 years ago and I worked it to good edges. I must say for pure cutting it is better than my single bits of equal sharpness. Maybe the single bit was only used when there was a need to also drive something. What say you? I have seen some old double bits with one sharp edge and one more blunt edge. I assumed one was for cutting and one was for splitting?

Same when I was growing up, only had one axe and it was a double bit, one side would shave the other side not. If there was a possibility of hitting a rock or the ground, better be using the dull side or dad would have a fit.
Edit: When splitting with the axe, we always used a twist right before hitting the wood to prevent the axe from going through and hit the dirt.

 

[svk]

Go to a swap meet. Find a nice old Plumb or Kelly that suits your fancy for $10-25. Knock off the rough edges. Use it some. Lather, rinse, repeat. Next thing you know you've got 25 axes. Don't ask me how I know that.

This is good advice.

Otherwise if you want new:

If you want an inexpensive wood handled axe that works get a Collins as a first choice or a Council as a second. Council quality has increased in the last year, they were putting out some pretty shoddy handles before that which would often break on the first use.

For a high end axe the Hults Bruk is the best performing wood handled chopping tool I have used.

If you want a cheap tool that really works well get a Fiskars "chopping axe". It is all black and has a longer handle than the X-15 but is otherwise identical. This is the best performing chopping tool that I have ever used.

 

[old guy]

There were still guys doing the tar paper shack thing in the sixties and seventies here. And limbing with axes and loading by hand. Be curious to hear more stories from tree stump.

I trapped beaver around Moose Junction which is about 30 miles south of Superior Wis. in 1961 & 1963. We stayed in a tarpaper shack behind the Moose Junction bar. Two miles up the Spruce river north of the Moose rd. Was the remains of an old logging camp, behind one of the dirt foundations was a pile off rusting carnation milk cans, each had been opened by the corner of an axe sunk in the top.

 

[bitzer]

Sharp side is for chopping the face out. Dull side is for limbing.

 

[BrantSFGDS]

Preference seems to be regional. Dayton is common here, but elsewhere patterns like Jersey are more common.

Check these relics out! These were my Granddad's. They're in terrible shape, especially the single bit, but I think I have a couple projects. I was talking to my Dad about axes and he told me he still had these. I remember actually using both as a kid but I had no idea they were still around. I'll do the metal work, let me know if you're interested in rehanging them and what it would cost.

 

[svk]

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Check these relics out! These were my Granddad's. They're in terrible shape, especially the single bit, but I think I have a couple projects. I was talking to my Dad about axes and he told me he still had these. I remember actually using both as a kid but I had no idea they were still around. I'll do the metal work, let me know if you're interested in rehanging them and what it would cost.

Good stuff. I have several axes from my dad and grandpa, and even one from my great grandparents.

Handles should run you 9-12 bucks a piece. If you can't find any locally check with House Handle online.

PS I just bought some Don't Tread on Me stickers too!

 

[madhatte]

I'll do the metal work, let me know if you're interested in rehanging them and what it would cost.

Those will never be pretty again, but they'll cut just fine, pitting and all. The poll on the single-bit should clean up pretty well.

I've got plenty to hang already, but I bet you can figure it out yourself. It's really quite satisfying to work with a tool you've repaired yourself. Just be picky about the grain in the handle. Discard anything more than about 20 degrees off parallel to the direction of striking force. If one store doesn't have any good handles, look for another, or order from somebody like House. All you need is a rasp, a mallet, and some time. It's worth it.

 

[hardpan]

View attachment 544661 View attachment 544660 View attachment 544659 View attachment 544657
Check these relics out! These were my Granddad's. They're in terrible shape, especially the single bit, but I think I have a couple projects. I was talking to my Dad about axes and he told me he still had these. I remember actually using both as a kid but I had no idea they were still around. I'll do the metal work, let me know if you're interested in rehanging them and what it would cost.

It may sound silly and we all vary on how sentimental we are but don't you wish those axes could talk?

 

[ArtB]

Since we are on old axes, anyone know who made the axes for CCC?

Have a few hatchets marked CCC, assumed to mean Civilian Conservation Corps. No other markings. Most are mediocre quality, not sure if any I have are with original handles.

 

[madhatte]

I have one stamped both CCC and SCS (Soil Conservation Society). This one is a Kelly Works pulaski. If your CCC hatchet was a FSS (Federal Supply System) purchase, it was probably grabbed right out of a cache and stamped locally. It could have originally had a paper label, which was common back in the day, which would leave no permanent marks. It was unlikely a no-name originally, as back in the day manufacturers were very proud of their work. Odds are that it was from one of the big manufacturers already listed in this thread.

 

[BrantSFGDS]

Funny you should mention that Art, my Granddad was a mine foreman and he was also involved with CCC when they cut the roads through mountains where I'm from. I think the single bit pictured is too new to have been involved in that but the double bit could very well have been used during that time. Granddad was also over something called the Happy Pappy program which, as I understand it, was kind of a local program that put men to work for some kind of compensation. Kind of like welfare you had to work for I guess.

 

[BrantSFGDS]

Here she is, all shiny and new!

 

[BrantSFGDS]

 

[BrantSFGDS]

 

[BrantSFGDS]

I can't wait to tear into a tree!

 

[Deleted member 110241]

All these pics of axes has gotten me to think about an axe I found 7 years ago, any information of it is welcome!
It's a small axe stamped with Sheffield Hunter and a #2, probably the weight of it?
The head is 15cm (about 6"?) long.

 

[BrantSFGDS]

Ok, review time! You can see by the pictures above that this axe did not come with an edge suitable for American hardwood, however, I decided I would try it out of the box just for the sake of fairness. It was fairly sharp and probably would have been fine for splitting but that's not what I bought this axe for. I took it out and tried it on a 10 or 12 inch dead ash. Probably not the smartest thing I've ever done, lol! I got about an inch and a half into it and it just flat stopped cutting.
I took it to the bench and spent 4 hours filing and stoning the edge to 20 degrees and about a half inch back. I got it shaving sharp and went back after the ash. Success! I don't know if they make trees harder than seasoned ash, but I hope I never have to chop one! Talk about tough! It took probably an hour to drop the tree. The axe performed well and the edge remained sharp. One side of the tree was harder than the other, which I thought was odd. Anyway, I suspect that a live tree would be easy work compared to this ash.
On a side note, I tried splitting some of this same ash and the axe just blew through it like nothing. I don't intend to split with it but it's nice to know it works well for the task.
I think the axe is great, the only negatives are the amount of work it took to put a proper edge on it and the fact that the handle has a laquer finish instead of linseed oil. In all fairness, it's not a true felling axe so I guess the edge should have been expected. I'd be curious to know what the edge on their felling axe looks like out of the box.

 

[Bwildered]

All these pics of axes has gotten me to think about an axe I found 7 years ago, any information of it is welcome!
It's a small axe stamped with Sheffield Hunter and a #2, probably the weight of it?
The head is 15cm (about 6"?) long.
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That looks like a joinery hatchet, they were used for removing the bulk of the timber before carving say a stair elephants foot or curved handrail termination