Baby tree not doing good two days after planting

[pdqdl]

I think the most common cause of a rapid decline of a recently transplanted tree is not "transplant shock", it is abusive handling by the landscaper. I think that any "exposing of the roots" will likely increase the abusive handling.


Here is a possible scenario, any part of which I think is likely to have occurred:

• Nursery has trees for sale. They grow them perhaps from bare root stock, then transplant into "5 gallon" containers. When this occurs, the transplanted tree may have most of the roots cut off so as to fit it into the container.
• Tree might be sold soon after it was transplanted, and long before it is "root bound"
• Tree ape gets assigned to transplant a tree. He digs a hole, grabs the trunk of the tree and pulls it out of the heavy pot. The root ball tears in half, leaving bare roots. Your tree is now in critical condition.
• Tree ape thinks Oops!, and quickly plants the tree as best he can. Customer evaluates, everything looks fine, and they move on.
• Days later, the tree begins to wilt, as all of the fine root hairs recently grown have been ripped off by the rough handling. No amount of watering will fix this problem, either. Customer is told "That's transplant shock, it is common. Your tree should be ok."

I would suggest that you just keep the ground moist, NOT SOGGY ! Then give it time. Mulch it with 3" of composted pine bark mulch, and make damn sure you wrap the trunk of the tree with WHITE tree wrap up to the first branches.

Then hope. Stick your finger in the dirt before you water it. Damp is good, muddy wet is bad. Here is why: Too much water excludes air and drowns the plant. Some trees like lots of water. Sycamore and bald cypress are good examples. Dogwood isn't on that list of trees that like wet feet.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

To clear up the pot sizes...
There is no such thing as a nursery gallon. There are standard pot sizes, most common being #1,2,5,7,10,15,25. After that, almost everything is b&b... balled and burlapped, and sold by caliper size at dbh for deciduous and height halfway up new growth for conifer.

The gallon nomenclature is just a bad habit of a lot of homeowners and some landscapers that causes confusion.

 

[fishdrivel]

Looks like simple sunscald to me. You can shade it to help but tree is not doing that poorly.
Could be planted too deep. Very common with the underskilled.
Watering new trees is almost impossible to give instructions for. When a tree has been in awhile, you want to water surrounding soil - not so with new trees. The new tree has roots only in the original rootball. Check the rootball with your finger. If it's moist, don't water.
If it is going dry, water the rootball lightly. Soaking does no good. The idea is to give the tree enough time to start sproting roots into the native soil. Then you water less and less frequently and encourage the root growth.
This is a poor time of year to plant a Kousa Dogwood. Bear with it.

 

[arganzua]

Thanks for all the advice. This helps a lot.
So here is the tree chilling in the shade now, tethered higher and a close up of the base... I removed soil about 3/4 to 1 inch deep at the bottom of the trunk and I can see the darker soil (maybe mulch) from the top of what was in the bucket. If it was planted deep it doesn't seem it was by much (I don't know, is 1inch too much?)
Cut pieces at the base look to me like they were branches and not roots.

 

[Del_]

Thanks for all the advice. This helps a lot.
So here is the tree chilling in the shade now, tethered higher and a close up of the base... I removed soil about 3/4 to 1 inch deep at the bottom of the trunk and I can see the darker soil (maybe mulch) from the top of what was in the bucket. If it was planted deep it doesn't seem it was by much (I don't know, is 1inch too much?)
Cut pieces at the base look to me like they were branches and not roots.

I though those looked like limbs.

The tree need replanted at the same depth that it was growing in it's container. Being planted too deeply is not what is causing the symptoms that you are seeing now but instead will lead to future problems.

You may be able to drive steel stakes in the ground outside of the root ball and 'lift' the whole root ball without having to dig up the tree.

A common problem with container grown trees is roots that circle inside of the container. These should be spread out when planting. If unable to spread some root pruning could be needed.

Planting a tree correctly isn't about just slapping it in the ground! (I know you are the victim here)

Watching a tree being planted correctly it may be difficult to notice all of the little things that are being done correctly.

Often time trees in nursery pots or balled and burlapped have extra soil heaped around the tree trunk. It can be hard to tell where the true soil line was. How and where roots leave the tree stem gives clues to those familiar.




.

 

[arganzua]

Rather than raising the root ball, would it be an option to shave (lower) the ground level around the tree?

 

[Del_]

Rather than raising the root ball, would it be an option to shave (lower) the ground level around the tree?

View attachment 994715

Yes as long as it doesn't leave the tree sitting in a well that collects water.

 

[pdqdl]

...
But it's essential to get all the air pockets out of the soil when planting ...

I'm not sure where this idea of worrying about air pockets came from. "Air" is not toxic, and it doesn't hurt tree roots. Obvious voids, however, aren't too good, since the tree needs to be stabilized in the soil. Just tuck in the soil when you backfill. Watering it in is good form, but not as any anti-air-pocket regimen.

 

[dboyd351]

You're arguing with me for no reason and with no justification.

No one said "air is toxic" but, yes, it can hurt the roots... as in "obvious voids" which is obviously what we're talking about.... which is exactly what "which will settle the soil and remove lingering air pockets around the roots" means.

Some say simply "tuck in" the soil, or heal it in, but there's a chance of compacting too much. Water serves the same purpose, but with zero harm to the roots.

"-5. Eliminate air pockets. While you could lightly tamp or hand-pack the soil around the plant roots to ensure good soil-to-root contact, I prefer to add a stiff spray of water to the hole after backfilling half way. Not only does it provide needed moisture but the water also helps eliminate air pockets that could otherwise result in dead roots or worse (without compacting the soil too much). Finally, water again gently but thoroughly once all the soil is in place."
https://www.growingagreenerworld.com/how-to-plant-a-tree/I can post many more sources, but if one won't convince you, another ten won't either.

"Watering it in" is more than "good form" - it's essential, for both reasons: to settle the tree and to eliminate air pockets.
How could you not know that?

very good video
never seen it before but it incorporates everything I've learned about planting over the years
The last part about watering until firmly established is critical to long term success
About 10 years ago I planted a couple dozen native trees and shrubs in native plant demonstration garden where I worked The planting site was very sandy soil and we had no staff available to water it during the first critical summer so I amended the soil with some organic material and made a network of soaker hose surrounding each tree connected by regular garden hose and set to water via a battery powered timer
Every tree survived wonderfully and a beautiful natural garden now exists in what had been a clearcut, using exactly the system described with the one variation of amending the very sandy soil to better hold moisture and nutrients
After the first summer, the plants root system is usually developed and further watering is not necessary unless in a major drought.

 

[fishdrivel]

Thanks for all the advice. This helps a lot.
So here is the tree chilling in the shade now, tethered higher and a close up of the base... I removed soil about 3/4 to 1 inch deep at the bottom of the trunk and I can see the darker soil (maybe mulch) from the top of what was in the bucket. If it was planted deep it doesn't seem it was by much (I don't know, is 1inch too much?)
Cut pieces at the base look to me like they were branches and not roots.

It was planted too deep.
#1 cause of tree decline in planted trees!
It is difficult to dig a tree up and replant but sometimes worth it.
It is not unusual for a tree to be planted too deep in the pot. This is corrected at planting time by a knowledgable Landscape Contractor.

You wil find that many Landscape Contractors despise being called gardeners. Gardeners mow your lawn!

 

[dboyd351]

Gardeners do not mow lawns! They cultivate plants in a garden - hence the name.

 

[Czed]

Mornin' 79/87