I am not sure why Lp would be illegal there. For those folks that do not like seeing an ugly tank in there yard you can easily bury them also. Another advantage is I would think your Lp would be cheaper there than here.
Backup generator opinions.
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I talked about hauling LP and gas tanks in. You quoted my post and started talking about rules so I kindly asked what rule I was breaking, nothing more, nothing less. I would still like to know what rule I was breaking.
We used to....until the clean air act axed them. They shut the lights out and walked away from 2 perfectly operational plants and replaced them with nada, zilch. I walked through one of the plants after the first winter of it being shuttered. Tube Exchangers never got drained, froze, and pushed the heads off the ends. 3/4 studs littered the floors from the tube sheets expanding and separating the heads from the shell. It was a sad site to see.
There were two smaller ones, 15 miles up river and 30 miles up river that has been shut down. They were simply too small. There is a rumor the larger one that I mentioned earlier may be converted to natural gas. Of course that is just a rumor. My neighbor works at the smaller plant close to us so I need to ask him what he knows.
I went solar for backup, very pleased so far. Not meant to keep operating as normal, just allow judicious use of critical items during an outage. Top priorities were a CPAP machine at night, fridge, freezer, and well pump. Also added both home offices, all the internet/wifi stuff, TV in the living room, and all the lights. Stove, water heater, and clothes dryer are all electric, and will just have to do without those for the duration of the outage. Just having running water next time will be huge. Also quite a comfort to have backup power for the well during fire season.
Had the house rewired recently, and took the opportunity to have critical loads moved to a sub panel and a 50a generator transfer switch and input added. Each individual circuit can be switched between grid and generator as desired, without impacting any other circuit. Plug in a generator or the solar system, as I choose.
Solar harvests power all the time, so I wanted the ability to leave some circuits grid connected, while powering some circuits with solar, to make use of that harvested power. The grid might be down right now as I'm typing for all I know, and it might be hours before I notice. This is why I didn't do a whole-house transfer switch. Building a solar power system that would run the all-electric house as normal would have required a 20x(or more!) bigger system. I'm not averse to adding one of those before-the-meter transfer switches, so that if needed, I could plug in a large generator and run the whole house. That'd basically just be for running the water heater, and I'd look real hard at a heat pump water heater that the current solar power system would run before I went that direction.
Final backup is a 2kw Honda inverter genny and lots of appropriately stored + rotated gasoline.
Oh, and I flip generators on the side - have 8 of them stacked up in the shop at the moment. I could put any of those into service as well, instead of selling them. I'd rather sell them.
Had the house rewired recently, and took the opportunity to have critical loads moved to a sub panel and a 50a generator transfer switch and input added. Each individual circuit can be switched between grid and generator as desired, without impacting any other circuit. Plug in a generator or the solar system, as I choose.
Solar harvests power all the time, so I wanted the ability to leave some circuits grid connected, while powering some circuits with solar, to make use of that harvested power. The grid might be down right now as I'm typing for all I know, and it might be hours before I notice. This is why I didn't do a whole-house transfer switch. Building a solar power system that would run the all-electric house as normal would have required a 20x(or more!) bigger system. I'm not averse to adding one of those before-the-meter transfer switches, so that if needed, I could plug in a large generator and run the whole house. That'd basically just be for running the water heater, and I'd look real hard at a heat pump water heater that the current solar power system would run before I went that direction.
Final backup is a 2kw Honda inverter genny and lots of appropriately stored + rotated gasoline.
Oh, and I flip generators on the side - have 8 of them stacked up in the shop at the moment. I could put any of those into service as well, instead of selling them. I'd rather sell them.
If you cannot follow a thread, then you shouldn't be commenting in it. I'm not going to patronize this kind of silly questioning. If you genuinely have any questions, which I doubt, go back and figure it out.
So far, you've been a pest in this thread, starting up trouble without contributing anything meaningful to answer the OP's question.
I disagree, I have followed the thread. We all have opinions and that is exactly what makes the world great. I hope you are having a blessed Sunday
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use a 7KW unit and power everything I need. I do not use A/C so that is never an issue. In 2008 when the kids were here we had 4 freezeers full of meat, all the electronics, deep well pump, and lighting. I used it without any issues and still do today. I wired a 5KW in for my father then as that was what was available. He later replaced it with a 20KW unit. I tried explaining that he was wasting money but some folks do not get it. The house had a 60 amp service..............folks do the math.
I am not a fan of Deere whatsoever
As with everything deere, it's been made so you have to go back to deere for the parts. Doesn't matter if it's a kawasaki or yanmar. They purposefully change internal and external parts to keep you going back to the dealer.
That is what keeps the PDC rolling
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks good to meI pull triples from time to time,
It's not too bad, I just go pretty slow.
SR
You are correct; I hauled a 12,000 gallon propane tanker for several years. It is dangerous-goods law that when empty the tanker contents documentation MUST have written on it 'Residue--last contained propane'. It invites a serious citation, fine, and possible loss of certification if after emptying the tank the note is not there.Not entirely accurate, I imagine propane would be similar to gasoline, even if the tank is “Empty” there is still enough residual vapor in it to be dangerous, and still require placards after being “Unloaded”
Look for a gasoline tanker with the drop axles lifted, good chance it’s still carrying placards
Doug
That is a very large tank. I do not think we can haul that much here.
Well guys, I quoted you the official rules. All you gotta do is read 'em.
That being said, what I quoted had to do with Hazmat placards and driver requirements. There might well be another regulation somewhere limiting what can be done with a propane or ammonia tank. Mr. DOT probaly won't be enforcing that rule, either.
Well I think you missed where member lwmibc lives.............rules are a bit different there
I'm sure you are correct. I had not noticed that.
The conversation, however, started in the USA, so that's the ground rules I am playing by.
Muddstopper is in North Carolina.
The conversation, however, started in the USA, so that's the ground rules I am playing by.
Muddstopper is in North Carolina.
Transportation rules are different in every state just like most laws.
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