Backup generator opinions.

[pdqdl]

Better have your Haz Mat Endorsement, and proper placards pulling that on a public road, and can you make that cll on speakerphone so I can listen, when you ask your Insurance Agent if that is covered under your policy

That thing would be a PITA to back up , I have only handled one full pull trailer in my 35 year trucking career, despised that thing. I imagine that with some practice, I could get the hang of it, but I am Good with it, if I never handle another one EVER again


Doug

Just for the record...

So long as the tanks are empty, no haz-mat endorsement nor proper placards are required. Haz-mat only applies to hazardous materials, not empty tanks. I suppose it might become a problem if a tank is all labeled up as containing a hazardous material. Mr. DOT might become a bit pissy if he pulls you over for towing tanks with a haz-mat placard bracket and you tell him you don't need it 'cause it's an empty.

On the other hand, transporting those tanks would not require the endorsement if the tanks were repainted to obscure the label and were provably containing a non-hazardous material like air. I'd pull all the plugs and ports before transporting it.

 

[pdqdl]

I am replying to post in the order I get them. It seems I make a reply to something and then read a few more post on down and see things have changed or been clarified. I certainly didnt expect this many replies to a thread about Duramax motors and generators.

I get it. I've had the same problem. It certainly took a wild turn or two, didn't it?

BTW: a few years back, I bought 3 inverter generators with a very reliable name brand on them, but from my distributor at a very low price. They turned out to be total junk from China, and we could hardly make them run at all, as the carburation was just a mess.

Although I have seen some Chinese engines since then that seemed to run reliably, I'd still stick to Kawasaki, Honda, Onan, and perhaps a few other engines that have a really established record of being reliable and keeping parts available. It sounds to me like you have a 20 year investment going on. I'd want to see a 20 year track record.

I have a 4500 watt generator that I used just yesterday; it has a Chinese engine. It ran fine, but only because we worked on it recently to make sure it was ready to go. I have a mobile air compressor with a China engine on it. It runs great, when you can get it started. When you can't... you won't, either. It's moody, and no amount of pulling makes it go when it doesn't want to work.

I'm not a fan of Chinese engines, as you might guess.

I've had a few Generac engines on some mowers. They were very strong engines, and quite reliable. Getting parts isn't very easy, though.

 

[muddstopper]

It's only rated for 10kw continuous from the generator, the 200 amp rating is the line side. It also lists overcurrent protection at 40 amps. So it's the same unit. To be perfectly honest, I wouldn't want it. But I also know I can run my house off of 26 amps @240v, except for the hot water heater .

It depends on what you are trying to do. No one said this is correct for a whole house generator like a 22kw generac. This is meant to be used with the smaller portable generators. Most of the portable generators are limited to just a nema l14-30, 30amp outlets, maybe two of them and a 20amp regular house type outlet. The genset also usually has its own 30amp breaker. Generlink sells a cord to plug into a 50amp outlet for the bigger generators that have that plug as well as the 2 30amp outlets. My current generator is only 8000 surge and 7000 run watts. It will almost pull everything I need with out any problems. The generator I am considering buying is rated for 13000 surge watts and 10,500 run watts, or maybe the 12000w/9500w. so basicly I am upgadeing my power production by about 50%. I could of bought a generac 20kw generator, but considering estimated usage time, It is hard to justify the $10,000 + cost to purchase and install. Not to mention I would of needed to purchase a large propane tank and fill it with fuel. I have ran my current generator 4 days in 4 years. I am going as big as I feel I need to go. at 26 amps for your house, you could use the generlink and run your house as well as the hot water heater without any problem. I should probably note I do turn off some things at different times. No need to heat hot water when I'm in the bed or not in the house. I dont run the clothes dryer and use the cook stove at the same time. Things like that.

 

[muddstopper]

I get it. I've had the same problem. It certainly took a wild turn or two, didn't it?


Although I have seen some Chinese engines since then that seemed to run reliably, I'd still stick to Kawasaki, Honda, Onan, and perhaps a few other engines that have a really established record of being reliable and keeping parts available. It sounds to me like you have a 20 year investment going on. I'd want to see a 20 year track record.

Hence my requesting info about the Duramax engines. It seems all the manufacturers are getting their generator parts from china and most of the engines used are clones. even brandnames are just china clones rebranded. Briggs are about the only name brand engines being used that are even remotely affordable. I hope I am still here in 20years to be able to give a performance report.

 

[pdqdl]

Let's clarify something here! Duramax is a GM branded product line of trucks. I suspect you are talking about Duromax.

https://www.duromaxpower.com/pages/engines-the-heart-of-duromax
Duromax does list a bunch of service centers. You might want to make sure there is a service center near you.

A good test of your purchase would be to call the service center and ask them for a few common parts off the model you are proposing to buy. Air filter, oil filter, then some parts that wouldn't be unusual, but not part of maintenance. A starter replacement, a valve gasket, perhaps a replacement dip stick. Then, found out how bad they are going to screw you on price, and how long it takes them to get to the dealer on the slow boat from China.

If you have trouble getting answers from the service center, call a few others. If you get poor impressions, that's the take you should keep on buying that product.

 

[Bill G]

Now you are getting confused. The meter is plugged into the meterbase. With a generlink, you unplug the meter, plug in the generlink, and plug the meter into the generlink. The transfer switch and the generator connection is already prewired inside the generlink.

Ok sir

 

[sean donato]

It depends on what you are trying to do. No one said this is correct for a whole house generator like a 22kw generac. This is meant to be used with the smaller portable generators. Most of the portable generators are limited to just a nema l14-30, 30amp outlets, maybe two of them and a 20amp regular house type outlet. The genset also usually has its own 30amp breaker. Generlink sells a cord to plug into a 50amp outlet for the bigger generators that have that plug as well as the 2 30amp outlets. My current generator is only 8000 surge and 7000 run watts. It will almost pull everything I need with out any problems. The generator I am considering buying is rated for 13000 surge watts and 10,500 run watts, or maybe the 12000w/9500w. so basicly I am upgadeing my power production by about 50%. I could of bought a generac 20kw generator, but considering estimated usage time, It is hard to justify the $10,000 + cost to purchase and install. Not to mention I would of needed to purchase a large propane tank and fill it with fuel. I have ran my current generator 4 days in 4 years. I am going as big as I feel I need to go. at 26 amps for your house, you could use the generlink and run your house as well as the hot water heater without any problem. I should probably note I do turn off some things at different times. No need to heat hot water when I'm in the bed or not in the house. I dont run the clothes dryer and use the cook stove at the same time. Things like that.

I tend to look at power generation quite differently then most. We live in the dead end of the line. The power line come into a pole on my property and splits at the transformer and feeds about 6 houses back the lane. We've been out of power for days on end. Really having to kill the hot water doesn't bother me in the least. Heat isn't an issue since the house is heated with wood. Not having power for days or weeks. (We've been out for nearly 2 weeks already.) Is not acceptable in my book. I also try to plan ahead for future upgrades. Eventually, I'm going to get a larger generator, weather diesel powered, gas or pto I haven't decided yet. So a 40 amp semi permanent service isn't going to work. (It also looks like crap imo having the meter stick way out imo.) The generac ats I got cost $800.00 and some change to have installed. It's fully automatic, with load shed and generator controls. Really it wad a no brainer for me as we were having a solar system installed at the same time.
Not saying it would work for everyone, but it works well for me and my wife can just hook up the gen and move on with life.

 

[Bill G]

Just for the record...

So long as the tanks are empty, no haz-mat endorsement nor proper placards are required. Haz-mat only applies to hazardous materials, not empty tanks. I suppose it might become a problem if a tank is all labeled up as containing a hazardous material. Mr. DOT might become a bit pissy if he pulls you over for towing tanks with a haz-mat placard bracket and you tell him you don't need it 'cause it's an empty.

On the other hand, transporting those tanks would not require the endorsement if the tanks were repainted to obscure the label and were provably containing a non-hazardous material like air. I'd pull all the plugs and ports before transporting it.

I have hauled LP and gas tanks to the scrapyard with no issues. With that being said all it takes is a pissed off Blue Boy (DOT officer) to be having a bad day and ruin others also..................

 

[Bill G]

I quoted his entire post and made reference to his statement about not being able to put anything between the meter and the meter base. You are the one confused. Maybe you should follow the link I provided. I ended the post with another reference to my original topic of wanting to hear thoughts about the quality of the duramax generators. Why do you want to keep taking this thread off of its intended course. Do you have any experience with Duramax generators or duramax engines? OR, are you just looking for something to argue about.

Ok Sir

 

[Bill G]

I get it. I've had the same problem. It certainly took a wild turn or two, didn't it?

BTW: a few years back, I bought 3 inverter generators with a very reliable name brand on them, but from my distributor at a very low price. They turned out to be total junk from China, and we could hardly make them run at all, as the carburation was just a mess.

Although I have seen some Chinese engines since then that seemed to run reliably, I'd still stick to Kawasaki, Honda, Onan, and perhaps a few other engines that have a really established record of being reliable and keeping parts available. It sounds to me like you have a 20 year investment going on. I'd want to see a 20 year track record.

I have a 4500 watt generator that I used just yesterday; it has a Chinese engine. It ran fine, but only because we worked on it recently to make sure it was ready to go. I have a mobile air compressor with a China engine on it. It runs great, when you can get it started. When you can't... you won't, either. It's moody, and no amount of pulling makes it go when it doesn't want to work.

I'm not a fan of Chinese engines, as you might guess.

I've had a few Generac engines on some mowers. They were very strong engines, and quite reliable. Getting parts isn't very easy, though.

Ever see a Honda OHV with a plastic cam...... Not good, names mean nothing they are slapped on all sorts of things just go look at Deere.

 

[Bill G]

I tend to look at power generation quite differently then most. We live in the dead end of the line. The power line come into a pole on my property and splits at the transformer and feeds about 6 houses back the lane. We've been out of power for days on end. Really having to kill the hot water doesn't bother me in the least. Heat isn't an issue since the house is heated with wood. Not having power for days or weeks. (We've been out for nearly 2 weeks already.) Is not acceptable in my book. I also try to plan ahead for future upgrades. Eventually, I'm going to get a larger generator, weather diesel powered, gas or pto I haven't decided yet. So a 40 amp semi permanent service isn't going to work. (It also looks like crap imo having the meter stick way out imo.) The generac ats I got cost $800.00 and some change to have installed. It's fully automatic, with load shed and generator controls. Really it wad a no brainer for me as we were having a solar system installed at the same time.
Not saying it would work for everyone, but it works well for me and my wife can just hook up the gen and move on with life.

I live on a long dead end stretch. Grass grows in the middle of the road. Many of our poles are from the 1940's yet. Needless to say we are not a priority................

 

[pdqdl]

I have hauled LP and gas tanks to the scrapyard with no issues. With that being said all it takes is a pissed off Blue Boy (DOT officer) to be having a bad day and ruin others also..................

Does not the scrapper require that the tanks have big holes cut in them?

I'm pretty sure Mr. DOT would accept that as Haz-mat compliant, too.​

​

The metal scrappers around here are pretty adamant about not accepting any pressure tanks that are intact.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Ever see a Honda OHV with a plastic cam...... Not good, names mean nothing they are slapped on all sorts of things just go look at Deere.

That's not new, Kawasaki did the same thing.

SR

 

[Husky Man]

Just for the record...

So long as the tanks are empty, no haz-mat endorsement nor proper placards are required. Haz-mat only applies to hazardous materials, not empty tanks. I suppose it might become a problem if a tank is all labeled up as containing a hazardous material. Mr. DOT might become a bit pissy if he pulls you over for towing tanks with a haz-mat placard bracket and you tell him you don't need it 'cause it's an empty.

On the other hand, transporting those tanks would not require the endorsement if the tanks were repainted to obscure the label and were provably containing a non-hazardous material like air. I'd pull all the plugs and ports before transporting it.

Not entirely accurate, I imagine propane would be similar to gasoline, even if the tank is “Empty” there is still enough residual vapor in it to be dangerous, and still require placards after being “Unloaded”

Look for a gasoline tanker with the drop axles lifted, good chance it’s still carrying placards


Doug

 

[pdqdl]

Not entirely accurate, I imagine propane would be similar to gasoline, even if the tank is “Empty” there is still enough residual vapor in it to be dangerous, and still require placards after being “Unloaded”

Look for a gasoline tanker with the drop axles lifted, good chance it’s still carrying placards


Doug

Hence my warnings about being provably empty and not having placard and signage. For example, I tow around a 500 gallon tank all the time. But it isn't placarded for gasoline. The law does not mandate a placard certifying "empty" on it for all tanks, but they do require placard on tanks carrying certain products..

My tank never (officially, that is) contained any fuel, so I need no hazmat endorsement on my CDL. I have a small fuel tank that carries about 200 gallons of gas, oil, whatever. I don't have the hazmat endorsement, and driving down the road with that tank full of fuel crosses the line of 119 gallons of gasoline or diesel.

 

[pdqdl]

After diligent search, I have found the rules about empty containers, at least in the USA:

173.29 Empty packagings.​

(a) General. Except as otherwise provided in this section, an empty packaging containing only the residue of a hazardous material shall be offered for transportation and transported in the same manner as when it previously contained a greater quantity of that hazardous material. <Translation: NEEDS A PLACARD and hazmat endorsement>​

(b) Notwithstanding the requirements of paragraph (a) of this section, an empty packaging is not subject to any other requirements of this subchapter if it conforms to the following provisions:​

(1) Any hazardous material shipping name and identification number markings, any hazard warning labels or placards, and any other markings indicating that the material is hazardous (e.g., RQ, INHALATION HAZARD) are removed, obliterated, or securely covered in transportation. This provision does not apply to transportation in a transport vehicle or a freight container if the packaging is not visible in transportation and the packaging is loaded by the shipper and unloaded by the shipper or consignee;​

 

[Bridgedpw]

That sounds like a really good way to hook up a smaller capacity genset. Smart and doing it right. But expensive!

I've been back-feeding my house and shop for 40 years with a 50amp connection that costs about $80 installed. It does require manually switching your meter off from the building, but I can do an awful lot of switching for $1500, and my setup will never fail to work.

Just install a 50 amp receptacle on the building where your genset is going to run. Make a short patch cord of heavy gauge wire and add the necessary plugs to match up with the house and genset receptacles. When the power goes out, throw the main breaker to the house, plug in the generator, and start it up. Your house is now wired properly to your 50amp or less power supply. There is no chance of back-feeding the entire electric grid, so long as you throw the main breaker, just like there is no chance of the power coming back on and roasting your genset.

If fail to throw the main breaker, however, that will cause BIG problems. Leaving the genset running or attached will also be a big problem when you turn the main breaker back on.

When the power goes out on those winter storms that last for days, my shop is a beacon of light in the neighborhood. My 10k welder/generator has no problem running everything in the building except for the air compressor. Since my waste oil heater requires a constant air source, we hook up a dinky little air compressor to run it, as my big air compressor is a bit too much.

Generator interlock kit 200 Amp Main Panel

 

[Bill G]

Does not the scrapper require that the tanks have big holes cut in them?

I'm pretty sure Mr. DOT would accept that as Haz-mat compliant, too.​

​

The metal scrappers around here are pretty adamant about not accepting any pressure tanks that are intact.

Nope. depending on how busy they are they will have you drive over to Pedro running the the grapple and he will drop them in the grinder. If he (Pedro) is busy Hector will grab them and pile them for later

 

[Bill G]

That's not new, Kawasaki did the same thing.

SR

Kawasaki is no better, folks look at a "name" and associate it with quality

Take a look at the Winchester pieces made in the 1980's that were branded Winchester "Ranger"

 

[Bill G]

Not entirely accurate, I imagine propane would be similar to gasoline, even if the tank is “Empty” there is still enough residual vapor in it to be dangerous, and still require placards after being “Unloaded”

Look for a gasoline tanker with the drop axles lifted, good chance it’s still carrying placards


Doug

I will not speak to DOT placards but I know there have been many a man killed or maimed welding on "empty tanks" here. Yes we do get by with a lot that others cannot but some pay the price. Those who do are the ones being really dumb.