bad bars?

[aRBy]

With my wife’s Husqy 345 we are having a problem with bars or the nose roller.
We have had the saw for a little over a month, and it’s cut up about 4 face cord of wood (3 cord hickory & almost a cord of oak). Well after the third cord of hickory the nose roll froze up and wouldn’t rotate. No the tip was not pinched. We bought another bar put the new bar on and after maybe 10 cuts through 14-16” white oak the tip on the new bar froze up. Went back to the saw shop and they gave us another bar, we went home and tried it again. Back to cutting the same oak, got almost a full cord cut up and again the tip froze up.
Could it be a problem with the saw? Or are we just running through a bunch of bad bars?

The guy at the saw shop said he would replace the saw, but if its bad bars???????

 

[cuttinscott]

You are probably CLOGGING the tip with SAWDUST...


Scott

 

[rreidnauer]

I think I recall reading the Husky/Oregon roller tips with the 5 rivet pattern for the sprocket bearing tend to be prone to failure, but I haven't had the experience of that happening myself.

Blaming the saw for a sprocket failure sounds silly, but maybe there's an angle to it I don't see.

 

[RDT]

Make sure your saw is oiling the bar and chain propely.

 

[2000ssm6]

I clean the tip with compressed air and then spray it down with pb blaster. I have cut some wood before that had the tip clogged after 2 tanks. There is alot of junk going between those bar rails. Cleaning the bar is done when I clean the saw....

Try cleaning the bar after a few tanks.

 

[Fish]

The guy at the saw shop said he would replace the saw, but if its bad bars???????

Yes, bad, gay bars are throughout Canada, and you deserve a new one....
...............................................................

You need to find out the failure of these bars before you can correct it.

Is the roller tip cooked, or just jammed up with soft wood?

 

[aRBy]

After every one to two tanks of fuel we change the chain. Take the one off and replace it with a nice freshly sharpened one and that removed one goes in to be sharpened. When the chain comes off the saw and the bar is cleaned, first scraped out then blown out with compressed air.

The 345 doesn’t have the adjustable oilier, but its getting about 2 tanks of fuel to one tank of oil. The oil is spitting a very fine mist off the bar when you test the oilier.

 

[Brushwacker]

I had a similar problem with a Husky 55. I believe you can take it to a Husky servicing dealer and have a different gear put in the oiler so it will get more oil. If your saw is under warranty I would think it would cover cost. My saws usually have little oil left in the tank when run out of gas. I think the bars that gave me a problem were the Husky-Oregon roller tips mentioned. I ended up robbing a 16 in. bar from a Sachs Dolmar with the paint wore off that lasted better then the originals. If you end up having to buy a bar might consider a windsor replacable sprocketnose . Seems to be a very good bar for the money and you can buy those noses for a reasonable price from Baily's.

 

[superfire]

what the ?????????????

i can not believe wtf i am hearing . oregon bar failure does not seem right . if you keep having problems buy a Oregon power match plus bar. the non solid bars are garbage for the amount of use like what you describesolid bars with a replaceable nose will serve you a lot longer than the laminate bars. what length bar are you running?
opcorn:

 

[aRBy]

She’s running a 16” bar

 

[pallis]

Brushwacker is right. Take it to the dealer, and have him determine if the problem is the saw's oiler or the bar. Bailey's did have some 16" Carlton pro bars for a good price. If you find you need another bar, give them a look.

 

[maccall]

Is your 345 perhaps set up with a .325 NK chain and bar?

Over here it would be, and there has been heard of, more than just coincidentally, failing bars with the .325 NK setup on hard working saws. Thoughts has been raised about thet the thinner bar and narrower gauge somehow doesn't properly transfer enough oil to, and not enough heat away from the sprocket, and therefor sooner than expected jams up the sprocket because of lack of lubrication and burned in sawdust in the tip. This typically forces the sprocket to break in pieces, or even the bar to split at the tip, but might not necessarily always do that.

If that's the case, try some non-NK (Stihl 25 RMC or Oregon 21 BP I think, don't know what Husky's is called) chain and an apropriate bar and see if it's holding up better. It will make the saw have to work a bit harder, but if it's holds the bar-rate down it might be worth it.

 

[SawTroll]

Have you tried to force the nose sprocket around against a plank, or with the shaft of a screwdriver - to free it up??

I suspect at least part of the problem is the very hard wood you are cutting with a small saw, and that you are creating more fine dust than normal, clogging up the tip.

Greasing the tip quite often may help, in this case.

 

[pgg]

i can not believe wtf i am hearing . oregon bar failure does not seem right . if you keep having problems buy a Oregon power match plus bar. the non solid bars are garbage for the amount of use like what you describesolid bars with a replaceable nose will serve you a lot longer than the laminate bars. what length bar are you running?
opcorn:

In the 70's down here we used for clearfelling native in the forestry, standard government issue 281 huskys, they reckoned the 81 mean't cc's, but we never knew for sure, but grunty enough when sharp, but never any fancy roller-tips then.

The solid bars always tough, belt them back into shape with sledgehammers or similar, not like flimsy modern roller-tip ????e, Now this GB bar on my 036, the flashing neon orange titanium, the 'saw you coming' salesman special, the damn rivets on the tip, they're not flush enough, they catch cutting springy undergrowth trees, gonna have to piss around with a grinder.. and if this flashy titanium(I thought titanium was lighter than steel, don't feel like it to me!) lasts any longer than a normal stihl bar, well, who knows, can only try and see, But back to solid bars, that's what I'll be looking for next. Haven't seen one for years, hope they're still available.

 

[SawTroll]

In the 70's down here we used for clearfelling native in the forestry, standard government issue 281 huskys, they reckoned the 81 mean't cc's, but we never knew for sure, but grunty enough when sharp, but never any fancy roller-tips then.
...... But back to solid bars, that's what I'll be looking for next. Haven't seen one for years, hope they're still available.

The 281 is 80.7cc, 4.2kW/5.7hp....

Hard nose bars "steal" some power the saw, due to more friction, and is not advicable on a 45cc saw, I believe.

 

[DGG]

I have some questions for you.

1. Using a sharp chain of the right size for the bar?

2. Chain wore out or improperly sharpened?

3. Greasing the bar nose?

4. Bar oiler working okay?

5. Chain tight, not flopping?

 

[aRBy]

This afternoon we went back to the saw shop and brought the saw along. He was going to give it a check up we told him we’ll come back later.
About an hour later he called and said we could come back anytime. When we got there he said the oilier wasn’t working right. He said that the saw was under warranty and he could fix it for free, but seeing we only had the saw for 3 weeks he’ll just give us a new saw.

Ok first thing I noticed was the tip on this bar was different. On the others the rivets were painted along with the bar, and they were slightly rising off the surface of the bar. The new one the rivets are spaced farther apart, they are not painted, and they are almost flush with the surface. Then on the other end of the bar it says “made in Canada”?

I filled the gas and oil tanks and went out to cut. Went through a tank of gas and there was just a little oil left in the oil tank. So it is using more oil.

 

[Brushwacker]

Glad you got it staitened out.
Sounds like you have a good dealer and did the right thing. I wasnt that smart with mine and ended up wasting a lot of time and mabe I could have had a new saw. Darn !

 

[wood rat]

Hard nose bars "steal" some power the saw

Not enough to worry about IMO

 

[SawTroll]

Not enough to worry about IMO

Do a search here, I don't believe it doesn't matter..........:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: