Bah Humbug, Husqvarna 350 rebuild questions. coil wires

[david newbie]

I bought this saw on ebay, it appears to have been heavily cannibalized so I had to order a ton of parts. Have very limited experience with coils so Im not sure what goes where. I know what to do with the long black coil wire but what about this short yellow one? Also, Im including a pic of the piston scored on both sides. Lean sized, air leak. straight gassed. Just curious what you thin. The main question is the coil wires ( boo his, the coil came from Farmertec)

 

[huskihl]

The saw was straight gassed, judging by the scoring all the way around the piston.

You need a wire going from metal ground to the switch and another wire going from the switch back to the spade on the coil. The wires press into the tracks in the air shroud

 

[Chevboy0167]

Check the intake boot clamp at the cylinder. If plastic, it may be broken. And check the impulse port nipple on the cylinder side as it may have been overheated and melted shut. Replace all the rubber parts and upgrade to the metal style clamp.





Wiring looks like this on stock saw...

 

[david newbie]

thanks for that tip.. Still not quite sure what to do with the short yellow wire, It's not a stock coil. its farmertec

 

[huskihl]

thanks for that tip.. Still not quite sure what to do with the short yellow wire, It's not a stock coil. its farmertec

Don’t worry about the yellow wire. They come with aftermarket coils and fit multiple applications. Run your wiring like the other fella’s picture shows

 

[Chevboy0167]

Yeah, I got no idea aboot the yellow jumper. For the stock setup, you need the 90 degree flag terminal into the red plastic stop switch.

https://www.amazon.com/INSULATED-TE...54011&rps=1&sprefix=flag+trmi,aps,137&sr=8-16

 

[david newbie]

Don’t worry about the yellow wire. They come with aftermarket coils and fit multiple applications. Run your wiring like the other fella’s picture shows

so the single black wire from the coil flag to the switch is all I need? Thanks

 

[Chevboy0167]

2 wires. Need to complete the circuit when switched to off position. 2nd wire from top coil mounting bolt.

 

[huskihl]

so the single black wire from the coil flag to the switch is all I need? Thanks

You need a 2nd wire that goes to ground to complete the circuit. If you want it like the original, it grounds on one of the screws on the coil. But any ground on the motor would also work. It’s easiest just to run it back to the coil

 

[J D]

A bit late to the party, but here's a few pic's from the parts pile that may help

 

[david newbie]

boy, it sure looks the the am coil ii bought did not include the wires ii need for this to work. anyone have an extra wire to sell ( the correct one )

 

[J D]

The wires you got will work for the majority of saws that coil fits, just not yours unfortunately.
If the terminal is the right size to locate in the switch & you're handy with a soldering iron you can clip the wire off & solder it back on at 90°.
The yellow wire can probably be used to connect the switch tab to the closest cylinder bolt... not ideal, but should get you up & running

 

[Chevboy0167]

Any chunk of wire the correct length and size with the 90 degree flag terminal will work.

Or this....

https://www.partstree.com/parts/husqvarna-503898703/

 

[david newbie]

thanks, I will probably try the ideas from the last two posts. ( I looked at parts tree and the cheapest shipping for the wire is 11$ ! ) merry xmas indeed

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yeah, I got no idea aboot the yellow jumper. For the stock setup, you need the 90 degree flag terminal into the red plastic stop switch.

https://www.amazon.com/INSULATED-TE...54011&rps=1&sprefix=flag+trmi,aps,137&sr=8-16
View attachment 1043672

What price does anyone else see when they open this link, for me its $45.09 that`s ludicrous!

 

[Chevboy0167]

$11.23 for a 50 pack......

The pic was just a closeup pic.....

 

[Chevboy0167]

I also recommend a proper flag terminal crimper for optimum clamp force. Different than standard crimpers. There are 2 types...

1 for non-insulated and 1 for insulated terminals.

 

[pioneerguy600]

$11.23 for a 50 pack......

The pic was just a closeup pic.....

That would be about what I pay for them here in stainless steel connectors for marine use, that means around salt water which is everywhere here.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Stainless defiantly is better in harsh environments but most the I find are the plain normal type with some having marine grade heat shrink.

 

[JoeMay]

Good guidance and great photos. Tough to visualize what is under the black shrink wrap. Has the black ground wire been stubbed short and then spliced to the blue wire?