When spinning the rivets, I keep track of the position of the handle as I tighten it up, stop and check once or twice and when it is good, note the position then wind the rest of them up to about the same point.
Mark
Mark
Bailey's Chain Breaker and Spinner
- Thread starter Philbert
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nmurph
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so, how critical is it to match the tie straps/rivets to the brand of chain you are spinning????? i picked up a stihl spinner several months ago. i have not tried to use it bc i don't have a punch and i haven't needed to re-size any chain since i got it.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
tdi-rick
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OK. They were the same a few years back so Oregon must have changed suppliers
I think they still are made by Tecomec/Precision, but remember Oregon sell two different versions too.
Older versions were made by someone up near Niagara (can't recall ATM) and seemed really nicely made, all cast, etc. but I believe they've sadly gone out of business now.
{edit} Remember now, it was Herr Manufacturing
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MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I'm not sure, but I think I know your problem. For example, where the die is stamped .404, you do not break the chain in the slot below "404", but use the slot above "404" to lay in the key. But you are right, the punches are brittle if not used perfectly straight, so a few extras aren't a bad idea.
I tried every possible combination and position and finally concluded that the location of the key in relation to the punch was simply not correct. No more problems with broken punches once I moved the key out and just eyeballed the punch over the rivets.
Mark
Mark
I used some birthday money and bought the Bailey's set, pictured in Mark's photo (post #4), after seeing them in person while visiting the Bailey's store.
They are much larger than they look in the catalog photos. The breaker is 6-1/2" high, sitting on a 6-1/2 by 4 inch base. The spinner is 7-1/2 inches high, and about 5 inches across the top (with both handles removed). Labeled 'Made in Taiwan'.
They look and feel to be well made and well finished, although, the punches and spinner anvils do look like they could be brittle. I followed the advice in the posts above and ordered spare punches and anvils. When I get a spot on the workbench cleared I will probably make a mounting base similar to Mark's, and will start playing with some old chains.
Thank you all for your input.
Philbert
They are much larger than they look in the catalog photos. The breaker is 6-1/2" high, sitting on a 6-1/2 by 4 inch base. The spinner is 7-1/2 inches high, and about 5 inches across the top (with both handles removed). Labeled 'Made in Taiwan'.
They look and feel to be well made and well finished, although, the punches and spinner anvils do look like they could be brittle. I followed the advice in the posts above and ordered spare punches and anvils. When I get a spot on the workbench cleared I will probably make a mounting base similar to Mark's, and will start playing with some old chains.
Thank you all for your input.
Philbert
HARRY BARKER
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wow! nothing like tooting your own horn!
rms61moparman
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I have been playing a little bit with my breaker and spinner, so your comments are making more sense now. I appreciate them - thanks.
The breaker has worked well on a few chains and a few nose sprockets. I have not been using the key to locate the anvil - just eyeballing the center of the rivets.
Spinning went really well on some 3/8" / 0.050 chain, but I had some trouble with 3/8" low profile chain. The links started to get tight before the head was fully spun over. Happened with a few links, using new pre-sets (Baileys). Not sure if it is an experience thing, the pre-sets being too long, or the anvil.
Surprised that the anvils are not cupped more to shape the rivet head.
Philbert
The breaker has worked well on a few chains and a few nose sprockets. I have not been using the key to locate the anvil - just eyeballing the center of the rivets.
Spinning went really well on some 3/8" / 0.050 chain, but I had some trouble with 3/8" low profile chain. The links started to get tight before the head was fully spun over. Happened with a few links, using new pre-sets (Baileys). Not sure if it is an experience thing, the pre-sets being too long, or the anvil.
Surprised that the anvils are not cupped more to shape the rivet head.
Philbert
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Hi Mate.
No, this is simply the dreaded 3/8"LP chain. The bane of all chain makers
It takes a lot of practice regardless of chain make or who's presets etc you use. I hate the gear and have on occasion left rivet heads partly (but safely) spun......mainly after breaking the made up chain for the 5th time after locking up the links from overtightening
There is one exception though, the use of .043" presets on .050" chain makes the task even more frustrating. Even worse if you accidentally mix both guaged presets up. Not that I'd know...
What about 3/8"LP would make it any different than spinning any other size/pitch chain of the same gauge?
Philbert
Philbert
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I've found you just have to go slowly slowly with LP. I have 3/8" and .404" well and truly worked out regarding turns of the handle, tension etc.
With 3/8"LP I tighten, check, tighten some more, check etc etc. When you think you can just get "one" more turn on it you'll lock it up guaranteed
I also don't think that the average spinner is really designed to cater for LP. I'd hate to try and spin 1/4"
I've run the Oregon spinner and breaker and have had no issues with it. Easy to use and efficient. Granted my rivets may not be easily confused for factory spun, but they function just fine and have had no issues as of yet :msp_thumbup:
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
.325" seems fine mate and I've never had an issue with those.
The biggest issue I found with my spinner and 3/8"LP was the small cutters on the anvil that are meant to cut the edges of the rivet off (Not sure how???) were digging into the tiestraps well before the rivet was spun. I ground these down with the Dremel as they really serve no purpose, (even on larger chain like .404") and while I had the anvil out I also polished it up. This made a LOT of difference to the quality of the finish. I've heard another dealer on here say "When I've spun rivets you can't even tell compared to the factory spun rivets". He's either blind or stupid!
Have attached a picture below to explain things better. I've posted this somewhere on AS before, maybe even a couple of times?
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I know others have commented on the need to knock down the wings of the anvil when spinning 3/8 LP, I haven't had to make any 3/8 LP loops yet but I have the chain on hand and I'm ready just in case.
Would it work any better to use the .325 anvil set when making up a 3/8 LP chain?
Mark
Would it work any better to use the .325 anvil set when making up a 3/8 LP chain?
Mark
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
It probably would Mark. As far as I'm aware the Precision Tooling made spinners like mine don't come with any other anvil sizes although I have seen two sets of anvils supplied with similar spinners. I now don't have an issue spinning 3/8"LP and making them look pretty but just get a bit excited sometimes and forget I'm not spinning larger chain resulting in locked up links
Actually, you posted it earlier in this thread (post #16)! I thought about that, but the wings were not touching the tie strap yet when the link started to get tight.
I was thinking that pressure on the rivet might be causing it to expand in the middle (? expanding the diameter ?) and causing it to bind in the hole of the drive link before the head gets fully formed/crowned. I may try to shape the flat profile of the spinning anvil slightly so that it rounds the head of the rivet more instead of just crushing it.
Make sense?
The instructions for the Bailey's spinner says to use the same spinner anvil for .250", .325", and .375" LP, which is what I tried. Maybe I will try the regular 3/8" spinner anvil next time and see what I type of rivet head I get.
It seems that the spinner anvil is the critical part of the operation - analogous to the cutters on the saw chain and the wheel on a grinder. I have not tried the Oregon spinner, but maybe this explains tomtrees' posts (#13 and #17).
Thanks again for your input. I will keep up with any findings on my end.
Philbert
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