ball hone?

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kf_tree

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where can i order a ball hone for a 395 jug (56mm)from? what grit am i looking for? if the jug is 56mm or 2.2in what size hone should i order?
 
maybe I am wrong here but I will never use a ball hone on a ported cylinder. I have never done it out of fear either so maybe it works. The abuse that the interrior of the ports would take could be quite serious. I always use a stone hone on the closed port cylinders and I made plugs for the open port cylinders and use a flapper drum on those.
 
here's what i got. i have what i think is walkerized jug and stock piston. i took a little time and polished things up a bit more, but in the process i hit the inside of thr jug with the fitting on the dremel and put 2 small scratchs in it. so i figure a ball hone and new rings and i should be good to go. but what do i know? i'm just a rookie at this stuff. this is the first jug i ever played with so i'm curious how it will turn out. i wanna time a few cuts with a stock jug them swap this one on.
 
Ken..i gotta order one for myself very soon, if u want i will order one for u too and mail it to you or drop it off when i pass by your way.

according to SIMONIZER, it should be approximately 1/16" (.0625") bigger than your jug.
 
If it just has a little scratch,just buff it out with a polishing fob and jewelers rouge.If you are bound and determined you have to use a ball hone,McMaster-Carr has them for around $20 . The problem if the cylinder is plated,is the possibility of honing right through the plating.The precision hone in the picture has stones especially made for honing plated cylinders,but cost around $200.
 
is the "general consensus" for 1/16" larger than the bore?
 
Vman said:
is the "general consensus" for 1/16" larger than the bore?
I honestly couldn't tell ,I've never used a ball hone on small cylinders.They do a pretty good job on larger engines though.
Do a google search for "mcdizzy" or macdizzy or something like that.This guy is a 2 cycle wizard with a whole bunch of info.
 
will do, thanks!
i have one of the 3-armed "brake cylinder and small engine hones", would u suggest that over the ball hone? i just want to do a quick honing on an XL12 that i have a new piston and rings to put in, nothing fancy.
 
Last edited:
Vman said:
will do, thanks!
i have one of the 3-armed "brake cylinder and small engine hones", would u suggest that over the ball hone?
If it was a plated cylinder I wouldn't suggest any hone.Like I said,you can grind right through the plating .I'm sure other folks have different opinions on this matter.Unless the scratch is deep and at right angle to the cylinder,I wouldn't be too concerned unless it might cause you to snag a ring.If you just buff it out,where it won't cut the piston,the ring will bridge right over it.Bear in mind this is only speculation on my part because I haven't seen how deep the scratch is.It's hard to give good advice over the 'net. :)
 
This debate over ball-hone vs. shoe hone has been brought up before. Simonizer or MacDaddy or somebody made a good point: A 3-shoe hone would tend to sharpen up the port edges, thereby increasing the risk of piston ring damage. A ball-hone lightly rakes over them and would actually soften the edges.

However, since I don't have a ball-hone, I use scotch-brite pads to just scuff up the bore a bit.

Chris B.
 
I don`t agree with Simon on the 1/16 over for the ball hone. 10% under bore is what I`ve always gone by for a piston ported engine. 240 grit should be sufficient.

Russ
 
I will go with Dean on this one, I have never used a ball hone on a chainsaw jug. They may work great but I donot like them , I use a flap wheel and it works great, everybody around here uses flap wheels for cleaning up a jug
 
Hmm,never thought of a flap wheel.He won't be able to turn one with a Dremel,unless they make itsy bitsy ones.
 
Used a three shoe style hone on my 34 super, problem was it wouldn't "cut" at the top 1/2" of the cylinder. Brake cylinde hone finished it, used a little emery cloth on the edges of the ports to make sure rough or sharp edges didn't cause problems. New piston, rings, and bearing and the saw works great.
 
Yes, lots of posts on this one if you do a search. The way I see it, taking native cylinder material off is not really the goal, as much as it is to remove whatever piston deposits there might be. Whatever you do, go easy. I had good luck just working on the rough spots with emery paper.... the cylinder started out looking pretty shaky, but came out beatiful.
 
I prefer a shoe style hone. 2-3 legs, does not matter as much as the shoe it self and how it is operated.
 
Ball hones work fine on two cycle cylinders and I have used them a bunch. I usually get one thats close to bore size, or even slightly smaller as the hones are oversized. Three finger, brake cylinder hones are a good way to ruin a cylinder as they can snag on the port, gouging the cylinder/port in the process.
As for honing through a plated cylinder. I dont think so. They use sunnen diamond hones to hone a cylinder to size. Witht hardness of the plating there is no way a ball hone will touch it to the point of removing material.
 
If it can't remove material, it can't scratch it. That's what a scratch is. IOW, if it can't remove material, it does NOTHING.
 

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