I was refering to the extent of removing material to a tolerance altering degree. I suppose you could remove a meausurable amount, but it might take awhile. 
ball hone?
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klickitatsacket
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this is the hone I use. it is a lisle hone with 3" stones. This only works with closed port cylinders. I bought this one at carquest for $60
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/klickitat/hone_1436.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y186/klickitat/hone_1436.jpg
BlueRidgeMark
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bwalker said:I was refering to the extent of removing material to a tolerance altering degree. I suppose you could remove a meausurable amount, but it might take awhile.
Ah, gotcha. Yes, it might take a while, but then, working in a motorcycle shop (way back when), I've seen some serious damage done with a combination of these ingredients:
- A hone.
- A high speed drill.
- An idiot behind the trigger.
If a little is good, more is better, right?
Al Smith
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh Lawdy this could end up like the oil/gas ratio thing.
Ole Ben was right,to a point,but they don't always use diamond hones.
Impregnated diamond will cut about anything,but they are pricey.We use them,where I work ,but the cylinder sizes and finishes are in microns[one thousandth of a millimeter]I have a few that fit my large bore Sunnen but I've never used them.No,by the way,I can't carry tolerances to microns,wish I could.
To get back to this gents original problem,if the "scratch" is above or below the ring travel,I doubt that any honing is needed.Do to the fact he was "tweeking " the ports,I would imagine it is below.
Ole Ben was right,to a point,but they don't always use diamond hones.
Impregnated diamond will cut about anything,but they are pricey.We use them,where I work ,but the cylinder sizes and finishes are in microns[one thousandth of a millimeter]I have a few that fit my large bore Sunnen but I've never used them.No,by the way,I can't carry tolerances to microns,wish I could.
To get back to this gents original problem,if the "scratch" is above or below the ring travel,I doubt that any honing is needed.Do to the fact he was "tweeking " the ports,I would imagine it is below.
Simonizer
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The problem here becomes lack of symmetry. The operator has to twist and turn to spend equal time and force against the cylinder wall. With a small interference fit the ball hone does its work equally provided the operator maintains a relatively perpendicular stroke. I have performed this procedure over a thousand times with outstanding results. The thing we should be focusing on here is clean-up. Alternate between the solvent tank, degreaser and water and air about three times once you are done. The finished product should be perfectly clean before assembly. When it is perfectly clean, wash it one more time. Cheers.jokers said:
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Simonizer said:
I totally agree. The best thing I ever did you get rid of my three-shoe hones and move to ball. Don't sweat the oversize - the balls all bend over on the end of the wires nicely so you get a higher pressure on smaller cylinders (within reason). I particularly like like them when they have a little wear. I can get a perfect very fine crosshatch every time. For those worried about wearing though the "plating", you won't wear though Stihl's nikersil... I tried on a bad 26 cylinder to mess it up will a ball hone. Left it on for 30 minutes at 500rpm (normally it takes about 1-2 minutes). All I did was wear down the balls. Be careful with "plating". If it's a chrome bore, don't hone it... at least I don't... As for rounding out the ports edges, it doen't seem to make much difference at all. If anything, the result is nicer then the factory radiusing.
Thats the type that causes chewed up cylinders.
kf_tree
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here's the scratch's i was talking about
kf_tree
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exhaust
Cylinder Finish
Tom , did the scotchbrite pad leave a shiney or satin finish ? Oh , did you have wild turkey for Thanksgiving Dinner ?
Tom , did the scotchbrite pad leave a shiney or satin finish ? Oh , did you have wild turkey for Thanksgiving Dinner ?
Dennis Cahoon
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kf_tree said:
kf_tree....bottle hones work great for light honing and cross hatching a cylinder. Your cylinder only needs a light cross hatching. Anything more is just loosing up your tolerances. These hones are really quite forgiving and do a great job with just WD-40. Then wash out with hot soapy water and wipe out with a clean rag. I think I bought mine from Madsens.
scottr said:
Roast pork, the nonwild version. Hopefully the turkeys made it thru the week.
The finish was more satin than shiney(not shiney at all actually). The cylinder was very clean to begin with. Probably didn't need to do anything to it but felt like since I had a new gasket and ring, why not. If I get a chance, should be done with the JB Weld saw in a night or two.
Muffler before after
After on the left, before on the right. Outer muffler plate up top, baffles on bottom. Not sure if this classifies as a muffler mod. Especially since its on a .... well you know.
After on the left, before on the right. Outer muffler plate up top, baffles on bottom. Not sure if this classifies as a muffler mod. Especially since its on a .... well you know.
2300 Muffler
Tom , your 2300 muffler cover , baffles , and screen look just like the 2000's . I'm waiting to hear how it sounds and runs with and without the screen .
Tom , your 2300 muffler cover , baffles , and screen look just like the 2000's . I'm waiting to hear how it sounds and runs with and without the screen .
Scott, I can't imagine it making a lg enough difference to matter with the screen in since I opened the baffle plates and the outer cover. It definately sounds alot "zingier" (is that a word?). I thought about putting it back in just for the sake of it. Maybe even add a few more holes.
Last night I got crazy and started priming all the rubbed off paint areas of the red 2.3. Guess I'll paint them tonight.
I've got issues!
Last night I got crazy and started priming all the rubbed off paint areas of the red 2.3. Guess I'll paint them tonight.
I've got issues!
Zingier
Tom , I haven't opened the Websters but I'll bet it's in there . As far as helping with the bigger holes , I think it will if you plan on keeping the screen in . My 2000 has a 32 by 32 screen which has about 51% open area . When I took the baffles and screen out of my 2000 it seemed to be too open but that saw needs a new ring and seals . I'm cautious about rpm in a reed valve engine . The last cylinder picture showed the satin finish better , thanks .
Tom , I haven't opened the Websters but I'll bet it's in there . As far as helping with the bigger holes , I think it will if you plan on keeping the screen in . My 2000 has a 32 by 32 screen which has about 51% open area . When I took the baffles and screen out of my 2000 it seemed to be too open but that saw needs a new ring and seals . I'm cautious about rpm in a reed valve engine . The last cylinder picture showed the satin finish better , thanks .
