Bar & chain oil: Stihl vs Poulan

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Chainsaw Pete

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I recently read here that a number of guys advocated using the cheapest bar and chain oil they can find. To date, I've only used Stihl oil (orange container, not that super dooper organic synthetic slimy Platinum Chain Lubricant (they don't even call it oil)). After reading what others said, I figured that too cheap means it's probably recycled bear saliva so I amended their suggestion to 'look for the cheapest name brand B&C oil you can find'.

Stihl oil from my local dealer sells for around $25/gallon - I've not priced it recently but I remember feeling I paid too much last time. I've seen it online for as little as $12/gallon+ 12.50 shipping. I checked my usual big box stores and Menards was selling Poulon Pro (Professional Grade) B&C Oil for $10/gallon, or under 10 with the rebate + sales tax. Poulon is a recognizable name so I bought it.

The Stihl at room temp (today it was 77ºF) is thick and sticky. The Poulon was quite thin, flowed much better, and did not seem anywhere near as sticky. It was also purple.

Am I over thinking this? Should I just use the Poulon and not look back? I can live with the purple color.

BTW, today I took an empty gear oil container - 1 quart round bottle w/ a pointy top (like a tube of construction adhesive) and a cap. I filled it with the Poulon oil. Voila, easy peasy to fill the chainsaw w/ oil now, (after over filling it twice w/ the Stihl oil left in the gallon container).
 
Yes you are over thinking. Run the cheap bar oil and stop worrying.
I did today, and cut up two trees into 16" hunks. Saw no difference in performance, but wondered if this is the kind of wear and tear that shows up in a shorter lived bar and chain.
 
Been trying the DGP bio oil vs whatever the stuff is Home Depot sells... honestly can't tell the difference. Maybe the DGP pumps more because its thinner, which would be nice given the longer bar...

The bio-oils can make a mess of saws as they will polymerize. I used to use it when chainsaw milling so I could use the sawdust for mulch.

I checked HD here, cheapest oil is $15/gal
 
Over thinking it. Been running g the cheapest oil I can get for years and years now. Never noticed any more or less bar wear from it. Some oils are thicker and better for summer use, but I haven't seen any real issue running the thinner oils. Once the saws hot the thicker stuff thins way out anyway.
 
I have a couple cases of old 10w-30....
Good point. I have about 5 quarts of non detergent 30 wt motor oil that I bought in the early 70's. Non detergent oil has better lubricating properties than detergent oils (the latter are better for cars because they don't leave deposits). Can I use this oil as B&C oil?
 
Good point. I have about 5 quarts of non detergent 30 wt motor oil that I bought in the early 70's. Non detergent oil has better lubricating properties than detergent oils (the latter are better for cars because they don't leave deposits). Can I use this oil as B&C oil?
I have owners manuals for some old saws that say to use 30 weight oil for bar oil. It will fling off the chain more but sure why not?
 
I try to buy whats on sale. Bomgaars had Harvest king for 7.99 a gallon a few days ago. I got 4 gallons. I have not had any problems with the off brand stuff and thats what I have done for years.
 
FWIW
I used to run 10w-30 for years in my Poulan 3400 and MS361 ,as it was free from the Oldsmobile dealer I worked for. Never had an issue.
Then I went to Lowes brand, when it's on sale.
Fast forward.....I bought a 500I . The dealer half way filled the oil reservoir (how generous on a $1600 saw) with Stihl bar oil. I went home, put a sample of that oil on my bench along with Lowes generic to compare. They both looked, smelled, and had the same tackiness. My ambient temp ranges are between say 20-90 degrees.
Your mileage may vary.
 
FWIW
I used to run 10w-30 for years in my Poulan and MS361 ,as it was free from the Oldsmobile dealer I worked for. Never had an issue.
Then I went to Lowes brand, when it's on sale.
Fast forward.....I bought a 500I . The dealer half way filled the oil reservoir (how generous on a $1600 saw) with Stihl bar oil. I went home, put a sample of that oil on my bench along with Lowes generic to compare. They both looked, smelled, and had the same tackiness. My ambient temp ranges are between say 20-90 degrees.
Your mileage may vary.
Awhile back when I cared more about this subject I did some digging and found that Stihl bar oil and Walmart supertech used the same base oil.
Its not like bar oil is some high tech lubricant.
 
Awhile back when I cared more about this subject I did some digging and found that Stihl bar oil and Walmart supertech used the same base oil.
Its not like bar oil is some high tech lubricant.
Yes, I think we over think alot of this stuff. Its just to lubricate the chain and bar roller and help with friction heat. Do some have better tackiness or lubricity maybe. But from my own anecdotal experience it matters very little and at the prices the big names charge, it doesnt take long you can buy new bars and chains with the money saved with the store brands. But I am not convinced the big names are better and actually think they are not as good.
 
I try to buy whats on sale. Bomgaars had Harvest king for 7.99 a gallon a few days ago. I got 4 gallons. I have not had any problems with the off brand stuff and thats what I have done for years.
I will add that even if the premium oils did reduce bar and chain wear somewhat, it is likely that the increased cost of replacing bars and chains would be much less than the extra cost of the premium bar and chain oils. How many gallons of oil do you go through over the life of a bar? I bet many gallons. If, say, you use 20 gallons over the life of a bar (and I bet you use more than that), if you pay $10 more per gallon for fancy oil, that will set you back an extra $200. You can buy several bars for that unless you use a really long bar.
 
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