SawTroll:
I don't think the bar balance thing is of significance.
The weight of a saw to power is. The ergonomics of an intelligently curved handlebar is. The length of a bar when preventing back problems from bending over is. The length of a bar in view of the typical wood diameter being cut is.
The distance between handlebars, for the kickback control, (that happens to everyone sometime), that with a larger distance is easier to hold. Also, this desirable leverage makes it easier to counter dropping the tip of the bar.
Why don't manufacturers, or companies running a variety of equipment have "balanced bars" pre-set with only certain bars on specific saws? For instance, shouldn't Stihl offer bars within only a 2"-4" range for any given saw? If this was really important, short bars could be made with weighted ends or of a heavier construction and longer bars the opposite for balance.
In short, it takes a minor effort, more mental than physical, to hold a modern saw level on face & back-cuts etc. Reaching up to cut too high invites eventual face and neck injuries. If you're fatigued from cutting above head height, where not only is there less control from that limb hitting you, but also if you throw your chain, (as everyone does eventually), your chin becomes a chain stop.
And maybe those that specialize in jobs like firewood cutting would want a nose heavy piece anyway.
One thing that has been lost in the many chat room threads on Stihl vs. Husky vs. JR et al is what fabulous pieces of equipment almost all saws are in this day and age. The majority have taken care of these issues and its just personal preference and dependability at this point.
