If they are sealed it's the strongest thinnest seal ever designed in history. Wish I had an old one laying around to cut apart now.
Bar Quality:Best Low profile (LP) bars for Dolmar/Makita
- Thread starter redhawk23
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redhawk23
ArboristSite Operative
What brand bars? Probably not 3/8 LP.
Mostly Stihl bars reg 3/8 and the 3/8 LP too
Im running 90 percent Stihls an one Dolmar that has an Oregon bar. I just bought some Tsumara bars recently. But I dont grease any of them keem the groove and the oil hole cleen and bar oil will lubricate it.
redhawk23
ArboristSite Operative
Stihl makes good bars
If you dont bend them they last a good while.
I had a Sugihara on a PS420 once. Is the 421 different bar mount?
I never grease a bar tip, nor seldom the needle bearings on the clutch.
Discussed in previous forum post somewhere.
Discussed in previous forum post somewhere.
redhawk23
ArboristSite Operative
Not sure, the website doesn’t seem to have their bars. Wtf?
Usually clean and grease the drum bearing. My clutch doesn't have bearings. Never do anything to bars but dress them. That's a whole nuther story 
Can't believe you wouldn't be able to modify one. Just did a 3/8 lopro stihl bar on a 40cc zenaoh saw I have. Drilled new oil hole and different tensioner holes. Wasn't bad with a carbide drill bit.
I don't think he understands there no real way to seal those bearings...It comes from aliens
They are not sealed. Simply looking at a Stihl tip will prove this to be true.
I stopped greasing years ago and si ply haven't had issues. I very rarely grease a clutch bearing either.
BLR
ArboristSite Lurker
From Stihl's web site:
For the highest professional demands on high- performance machines. Solid and rigid bar body, bar nose fully replaceable, elliptically shaped, angled oil holes for optimum lubrication. Maintenance-free sealed bearings in the sprocket nose.
Rollomatic ES
For the highest professional demands on high- performance machines. Solid and rigid bar body, bar nose fully replaceable, elliptically shaped, angled oil holes for optimum lubrication. Maintenance-free sealed bearings in the sprocket nose.
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Marketing splurge tend to stretch the truth- like Turbo Jonsereds and Air Injected Husqvarnas- sounds good but not actually true to facts.
Let us call the Stihl nose cap bearing encapsulated- not sealed- it is trapped between the side plates, but not fully sealed- maintenance free because the user is not able to pump grease or oil directly into the bearing from the exterior of the side plate as preferred by some of the competitors offerings.
Not that this has a whole lot to do with anything in this thread- OP just needs to walk into a Husqvarna agent, or any guide bar sales place and compare the tail of the bars he keeps pinching to bars on the shelf- some will be near identical- as has been suggested much earlier in the thread.
BLR
ArboristSite Lurker
Here is a bar Stihl tip. The round plate with the 6 holes is the “seal”. It is more like a shield. .006 thick. It covers the rollers. One on each side. They fit inside the sprocket and completely cover the rollers. This tip is over 30 years old. It is wore out. Very little oil or grease in it. The sprocket still turned freely. 
Doesn't take much oil to lubricate it, more worried about keeping larger debris out. Still compared to any sealed or shielded bearing its defintaly not sealed. Now you got me wondering about one with a grease hole in it. I do happen to have an old one here I can grind the rivets out of and see how thays constructed.
BLR
ArboristSite Lurker
If it has grease holes you should be able to see the rollers through the holes. When you grease the tip the grease forces the dirt out. The tip shields are as good as any other shielded bearing.
Shielded bearings still need greased or oiled. Well or replaced when the oil is gone. Go through them pretty often at work, once they start pushing the grease out its a matter of days till they are shot. Then it's time to replace them. Bar oil will still work down into the bearings and keep enough lube there for them to be happy.
