Bar Quality:Best Low profile (LP) bars for Dolmar/Makita

[sean donato]

Oregon used to have a bar profile section on their site. Had the tail measurements on it for the different mount types. Just measure and see if it will fit the studs. Then make your tensioner hole and oiler hole to suite. Thats how I did it. On the zenoah.

 

[redhawk23]

GB has a bar for my saw but it looks like the same mediocre quality of what’s available from Oregon. And it requires greasing I wonder if they even make it.

They said it was for my saw but it isn’t listed

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

You have not run GB bars- yet you have decided they are of mediocre quality already!

 

[redhawk23]

“GB Power-Tip Plus are economically priced, suited to occasional light use or light firewood cutting.”

Sounds high quality to me. I think you ought to inform GB their bars are higher quality than they say they are.

 

[redhawk23]

This is what Woodland Pro says about their bars, the ones that last a month,

“WoodlandPRO ArborMAX chainsaw bars are made specifically for professional tree care users. The wide contour body and large radius nose makes this bar much stronger and longer lasting than standard consumer bars. These bars are made of three titanium alloy steel plates that are electrically welded together. The center plate has been hollowed out to reduce weight. Rails are induction hardened for a long life. Sprocket nose tip is held in place with 4 sturdy rivets. This bar comes with a universal mount, which is perfect for crews that run different saws.”

 

[sean donato]

Never heard of a universal mount.

 

[scottr]

I saw a 16" , .050 gauge , A041 mount , 57 drive link Windsor replaceable sprocket nose bar on ebay for $40 plus $7.50 shipping .

 

[Franny K]

This is what Woodland Pro says about their bars, the ones that last a month,

.........

This bar comes with a universal mount, which is perfect for crews that run different saws.”

Is it possible the problem is you did not fill in the unused adjuster and oiler holes with epoxy or even wadded up paper towel and the oil is escaping through hollow spots in the clutch cover and this is the root of your problem?

 

[Franny K]

Never heard of a universal mount.

The ones at Baileys woodland whatever allow the brand x count loops to be used on the 3005 mount Stihl. I got a 72dl .325 one years ago, NK if I recall. Now The 23rspro comes in brand x dl count loops and Stihl has yet to offer bars that I am aware of.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

This is what Woodland Pro says about their bars, the ones that last a month,

“WoodlandPRO ArborMAX chainsaw bars are made specifically for professional tree care users. The wide contour body and large radius nose makes this bar much stronger and longer lasting than standard consumer bars. These bars are made of three titanium alloy steel plates that are electrically welded together. The center plate has been hollowed out to reduce weight. Rails are induction hardened for a long life. Sprocket nose tip is held in place with 4 sturdy rivets. This bar comes with a universal mount, which is perfect for crews that run different saws.”

Holtzforma probably say the same thing about theirs.

 

[redhawk23]

I saw a 16" , .050 gauge , A041 mount , 57 drive link Windsor replaceable sprocket nose bar on ebay for $40 plus $7.50 shipping .

Im looking for a professional quality bar but no one makes one for my saw. I’ve seen a few, none have replaceable tips, all require greasing. I saw the Windsor, it’s like the rest of them. I guess Dolmar made a mistake in using that mount and chain on such a nice saw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Just because a bar tip has provision for grease to be applied via an external gallery to the bearing does not mean it requires nor needs to be greased- thousands of said bars run just fine with the only lubrication provided by the operator is chain bar oil.
Just put it in the too hard basket, retire the saw to a shelf queen and buy yourself a new saw that has a bar mount that suits your requirements.
Find the bar you like and then buy the saw to fit it.

 

[redhawk23]

I have a feeling that the bars with a grease hole and are used professionally and last are made better. I have a husqvarna with a replaceable nose with a grease hole that I’ve never greased and has lasted awhile. However, I use my Dolmar 95% of the time.

I won’t retire this one, and I already have a brand new replacement on the shelf, I might however, look into running a different chain some day. For now, I’m satisfied with frustrating you.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I have a feeling that the bars with a grease hole and are used professionally and last are made better. I have a husqvarna with a replaceable nose with a grease hole that I’ve never greased and has lasted awhile. However, I use my Dolmar 95% of the time.

I won’t retire this one, and I already have a brand new replacement on the shelf, I might however, look into running a different chain some day. For now, I’m satisfied with frustrating you.

You are not frustrating me! I enjoy a good laugh as well as the next guy.
The answer to your woes has been provided many a time within this thread- you have just failed to see it.

 

[redhawk23]

Where has anyone said that a professional quality bar is not made for this saw (besides me)? That was my original question, 6 pages back.

 

[Franny K]

You titled this thread best quality. Pro to me means used in a manner to make money. Like maybe get this one for your crew. I think it is post 6 I put a picture of four bars with the proper tail and 3 have a called length of 16" One even says pro 91 on it. That one has I believe been replaced with an aluminum core re named choice.

 

[redhawk23]

I make money with the saw, just because it has a few non-pro features, like a crappy bar! it’s still a great saw. Maybe I’d consider a husky 345? In the future if I can’t live with the bars available.

 

[sean donato]

Grab whatever bar you want thay fits over the studs and make the tensioner and oil hole work for you. It's really not that hard to do.

 

[redhawk23]

Grab whatever bar you want thay fits over the studs and make the tensioner and oil hole work for you. It's really not that hard to do.

I’ll look into it, but for now!