Bar Size for Chinese MS660 Clone?

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Paul Bunions

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I just found out about Chinese Stihl MS660 clones from Farmertec and Neo-Tec. I'm not a pro, so there is zero possibility that I would ever spend for a real Stihl, and it's unrealistic to wait for a good used one to magically appear in my area at a good price, but it would be really nice to have a stronger saw than my Echo CS-590, and the Chinese jobs are affordable. I live in a place where oaks fall over a lot, and cutting the big ones with the Echo's limited power and 20" bar can be a drag.

What's a good bar size for an MS660 clone? I have seen people say to stay at or below 25", but I have also seen people recommending 36". I was thinking a 28" bar would be very nice for the trees I cut up here, but I don't want to get a bar that is really too big for the saw. I would rather have a fast 25" saw than a slow 28" saw.
 
I just found out about Chinese Stihl MS660 clones from Farmertec and Neo-Tec. I'm not a pro, so there is zero possibility that I would ever spend for a real Stihl, and it's unrealistic to wait for a good used one to magically appear in my area at a good price, but it would be really nice to have a stronger saw than my Echo CS-590, and the Chinese jobs are affordable. I live in a place where oaks fall over a lot, and cutting the big ones with the Echo's limited power and 20" bar can be a drag.

What's a good bar size for an MS660 clone? I have seen people say to stay at or below 25", but I have also seen people recommending 36". I was thinking a 28" bar would be very nice for the trees I cut up here, but I don't want to get a bar that is really too big for the saw. I would rather have a fast 25" saw than a slow 28" saw.
I built one of the kits. I have a 25" on it and it pulls it very well completely buried. I also have a 36" for it but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.
 
I like the 28" on mine. With a standard Stihl Rollomatic ES, it's just a hair nose-heavy with the 28-incher. Pulls a-plenty with full chisel standard chain, although I muffler modded mine and opened it up quite a bit, so it burns gas like there's no tomorrow. YMMV.
 
I built one of the kits. I have a 25" on it and it pulls it very well completely buried. I also have a 36" for it but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.
What do you think of the kits? I have read that the assembled saws are better, but I wonder if that's because some people don't do a good job building their own.

I like the idea of building, because I have had horrible experiences with local shops, and I would like to have some clue what's inside a saw and how to fix it. I have read that it takes less than a day to put a kit together. I am not a chainsaw mechanic, but I have all sorts of tools and I'm reasonably handy.
 
What do you think of the kits? I have read that the assembled saws are better, but I wonder if that's because some people don't do a good job building their own.

I like the idea of building, because I have had horrible experiences with local shops, and I would like to have some clue what's inside a saw and how to fix it. I have read that it takes less than a day to put a kit together. I am not a chainsaw mechanic, but I have all sorts of tools and I'm reasonably handy.
I would say build your own from a kit, that way you can control the quality a bit better and put OEM parts in it if you so wish.
 
IMHO 660's are gas hogs (I've had several) and more weight than I care to wrastle anymore, love my 044 with either a 25 or 28" bar.
as an old amateur a tank of gas in the 044 usually is enough to create my day's work.
KIMG1011.JPG
Didn't run one tank of gas dry dropping, bucking two ash down to stick size.
Then hand split, filled this trailer twice, and have it all in the racks. woosh, LOL
Two cents better being a little slow a few cuts a day than fighting a too big saw for hours.

Different day with the 25" bar
Kalsheirs ash by house..jpg
filled the van 3 times that day using the gas splitter but I was beat.
 
What do you think of the kits? I have read that the assembled saws are better, but I wonder if that's because some people don't do a good job building their own.

I like the idea of building, because I have had horrible experiences with local shops, and I would like to have some clue what's inside a saw and how to fix it. I have read that it takes less than a day to put a kit together. I am not a chainsaw mechanic, but I have all sorts of tools and I'm reasonably handy.
I enjoyed building the kit. Mine had a few inferior parts. I think their overall quality is better these days whether it's kit or complete.
 
IMHO 660's are gas hogs...
I've noticed that, too.

I mean, you would EXPECT that the 660 would burn gas at maybe double (or a little less) the rate of the 361, given their HP ratings. But my 660 easily burns fuel 4X to 6X as fast as my 361. The only thing I can figure is that a sh!t|oad of fuel is being used for cooling...
 
I enjoyed building the kit. Mine had a few inferior parts. I think their overall quality is better these days whether it's kit or complete.
seems their parts have come up a bit in quality if I get one it’s going to be a built power head that willl get run and then I will replace what’s needed down the road.
 
I have a Holtz G660 truly cloned up with TSC Ford lt grey painted pull starter and clutch cover and 660 decals, etc.
I pull a 32" Stihl ES bar with full chisel chain and the thing rips ass.

660Capture.JPG

I modded the muffler and tuned it and it has no issue with any New England hardwood. .
It's been a lot of saw for the money. We recently used it on my youngest son's Eagle project, cutting some pine bush that became so big over the years, you couldn't see the stonework or flag pole at our church's cemetery. It was overkill, but the 32" bar meant I didn't have to bend over.

I am a big guy (still go to the gym) and my saw is heavy with the 32", but is not something I mind handling for a while. I think the bar size should be determined based on your cutting and handling needs.
 
I have a Holtz G660 truly cloned up with TSC Ford lt grey painted pull starter and clutch cover and 660 decals, etc.
I pull a 32" Stihl ES bar with full chisel chain and the thing rips ass.

View attachment 984115

I modded the muffler and tuned it and it has no issue with any New England hardwood. .
It's been a lot of saw for the money. We recently used it on my youngest son's Eagle project, cutting some pine bush that became so big over the years, you couldn't see the stonework or flag pole at our church's cemetery. It was overkill, but the 32" bar meant I didn't have to bend over.

I am a big guy (still go to the gym) and my saw is heavy with the 32", but is not something I mind handling for a while. I think the bar size should be determined based on your cutting and handling needs.
For me the ms660 would be used for big hardwoods and maybe some milling. I like longer bars bc that means less bending over bucking and a slower kickback.
 
For me the ms660 would be used for big hardwoods and maybe some milling. I like longer bars bc that means less bending over bucking and a slower kickback.

I have always wanted to get into milling as well. That's originally why I went with the Holtz.

I think a 32" bar is the perfect length for this powerhead.
 
I have always wanted to get into milling as well. That's originally why I went with the Holtz.

I think a 32" bar is the perfect length for this powerhead.
I think you guys have the same mix of trees we have here in this part of sountern Ontario the carolinian forest.
 
I just found out about Chinese Stihl MS660 clones from Farmertec and Neo-Tec. I'm not a pro, so there is zero possibility that I would ever spend for a real Stihl, and it's unrealistic to wait for a good used one to magically appear in my area at a good price, but it would be really nice to have a stronger saw than my Echo CS-590, and the Chinese jobs are affordable. I live in a place where oaks fall over a lot, and cutting the big ones with the Echo's limited power and 20" bar can be a drag.

What's a good bar size for an MS660 clone? I have seen people say to stay at or below 25", but I have also seen people recommending 36". I was thinking a 28" bar would be very nice for the trees I cut up here, but I don't want to get a bar that is really too big for the saw. I would rather have a fast 25" saw than a slow 28" saw.
An Oak spend 500 years growing and then 500 years dying - consider that before you fell it.
The same bar as an OEM STIHL 660/661. The shorter the better (20" and up - what ever you need).
 
An Oak spend 500 years growing and then 500 years dying - consider that before you fell it.
The same bar as an OEM STIHL 660/661. The shorter the better (20" and up - what ever you need).
My rules for brush lots are a mix from a conservation personally if it’s down I will cut it if it’s down and punky and not in the way or a problem I leave it be nature needs some dead wood in it. I never touch new growth I will clear some to promote new growth and invasive trees are always on the chopping block. Most of the trees I cut in my business are backyard trees that are a problem in one way shape or form either dying and dropping big branches or in the way of the property owner.

If I could afford to buy up some of the farm land that is being sold as a proposed subdivision lots I would and plant it with a native mix of trees and plants.
 
An Oak spend 500 years growing and then 500 years dying - consider that before you fell it.
The same bar as an OEM STIHL 660/661. The shorter the better (20" and up - what ever you need).
I think you mean "5 hrs dying", OP lives in hurricane territory. If you ever have to clean up after one you'll see ancient trees thrown and broken up like a trailer park marriage.
 
BTW - it does suck gas. About as much as my wife driving her Stinger (a gallon a minute LOL).

That's the only downside for me, but of course it should be expected given it's displacement.
Mine uses a good bit of fuel but not as much as the 372 kit I built. If your running it hard, it'll use a tank of fuel in 20 minutes.
 

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