John learnt to tell time only with the evolution of digital timepieces in 1972.
Barber chair
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Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Savanah Oak?
This appears to be a Work safe bc (WCB vidio) BC Forest Saftey Council (BCFSC) Who have constructed the BC Fallers training standards for Work Safe BC, do endorse the falling cuts BUT go on to say
"It may have been modified for filming and may not be consistent with BC fallers training practices."
WTF!!!! Next time someone from Work Safe BC or a saftey advisor from BCFSC or prehaps my Certified Faller Supervisor comes to audit & evaluate my work to uphold the Councils standards on behalf of Work Safe BC.....
I think it's going to go someting like this:
Question: "what's happening here?
Answer : "I was overcoming a falling difficulty"....
Officer: "and would you mind explaining what looks to be about a 6 tree push just over here"?
Me: "I was also overcoming a falling difficulty with an uprooted tree in the mix".
Officer: "Ok now I am starting to see a trend here.
It looks like you have a ten tree push down on this end. Would you mind attempting to explain this one"?
Me"Sure I would love to.
I was just doing some filming for the Internet ".
Officer: So you are saying it was a modified tecneque"
Me: "that's what I'm saying,
modified for filming and may not be consistent with BC fallers training standards practices."
Officer. " With some of this work displayed here, I could have suspended your practice and sent you for remedial training or recertification but I asked you and you were able to give more than ecxeptable responses here today to justify your actions. We'll let you carry on".
Me: "I thank you! OH thank you sir...I am forever indebted".
The end.
Yeah right! Hypocrits.
I found 15 inconsistencies in that film without trying very hard.
I mean you would think they could find fallers that could do it by the book FOR THE PUPPOSESE OF FILMING TO MEET BC FALLERS TRAINING PRACTICE STANDARDS ??? NO? YEAH? maybe I am wrong here?
If they tried then prehaps it went something like this......
"BCFSC Director":
Work safe BC/ BC Fallers saftey practice vidio; TAKE scene #147....
Ok CUT! CUT! *Throws stick at Faller*,
Faller Tom: "What did you do that for? You said 'CUT" !
Director: CUT! CUT the scene Tom! For crying out loud Tom! I don't know how it became we ever gave you a Falling ticket?
You are supose to know this stuff Tom"!
Tom: "Well you got a Falling ticket? how did you get yours"?
Director:
"Can you just do it right Tom? Please..for me.. so we can all go home? Doesn't look like we have a lot of trees left either.
The end.
( one could only wonder eh?)
Or maybe Clint Eastwood was the director. "Cut! Cut" ..Eastwood: "Why was he out of focus? ...if he wasn't out of focus then we don't stop the take. I think I just made my self clear on that.... Now if you'd do the right thing like I know you are going to and just apologize to my mule and we can all carry on....lol
How many fun fact discrepancies can
y'all see in the vid that you know or may believe to not be a BC Fallers safe practice?
Obviously I have a significant advantage on reconizing them .because a Certified Faller should know his own book on what's expected of him
Some of the 15 differences I spotted are kind of the same but different in their own right. Some were done properly at different times through the undercut vid. What you saw is more accurate as to what you would see on the hill.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
Trees tend to slide down after they hit the ground. The logger tends to get splattered when they have a tree hit them, even if it is already on the ground.
Cool. That's good to know. Will be doing some up hill falling Saturday. Power lines on the downhill side. I plan on putting a rope in it, making my cuts, then being well out of the way when the tree is pulled over.
Tenderfoot
ArboristSite Guru
Make a bigger and smoother escape route then normal. Saw isn't worth your life, so drop it if you need to move fast. They normally do not go far downhill, but when they do, its a train wreck. Never buck from the down hill side and work downwards from the crown when you buck. Be wary of pivot points too, you can have a log swing around on you and crush your legs.
Its a really dangerous thing to do. By the book we are allowed to fall 15° above side hill, (up the hill). The west coast is a little different as the slopes can change and you can be falling multi faces so we have this thing called "overcoming a falling difficulty"
The bigger the wood or snags, the steeper the ground, the rockier the ground the more snags above, the less experience the faller....the move dangerous it is.
It starts dangerous and gets worse.
You are working from the low side right?
That's like me saying go stand on the low side everytime you fall a tree. I would advise to not do that obviously.
Now the top is closer to the ground and will reach it faster in this situation due to the slope. The danger of that is it can often create a whipping motion from the top bending and springing giving it a downward travel when mixed with gravity.
That's when special cuts are in order. I like to use "west coast Swanson" because I can make the Humboldt less open like 30° instead of 40/45° to speed up the process of droping the butt before the top. Then cut my ramp to complete my undercut. When you cut the ramp, you change where the cut closes and takes away that sudden impact which I believe stalls the butt and speeds up the top soon after. Another approach on more juvenile trees that have holding power to the stump. maybe an open face of a "Johnny HMT".
The added risk that I deal with is distubance above, dislodging rocks. (Slides) and unstable trees/snags.
We never fall a tree on a tree laying up the hill for that reason. We don't worry about bucking 'would be saw log' if saftey is in question. Unfortunately I've known safe fallers that were lost bucking blowdown up and down a hill "in the name of saftey"
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for! It's not just about knowing the different styles, but when too use them. Subscribed, with much more to learn.
Thanks Jamie,
Pat
I was laughing pretty hard reading through this! I'm guessing you're up to your ass in snow and a few adult beverages along? Lol! When you're done making trees throw themselves to the ground at the mear sounds of your boots, you should start writing for a living. This isn't the first time I've had this thought btw.
Pat
lol
.Lord 'tunder' 'n' Jesus 'by' ! Iys Hates funny accents 'by'. You's gots to be's thicks me's sons? Me's I gone and gives me's opinions once I dids, geez lord 'by' (boy )me sons.
]https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=1TfDEUsdUV0
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Aurora Boriallis ^^ nice **** I mean pics.
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If you are dropping it with the lean, I'd be inclined to bore & trigger it. I'd tend to leave the hinge and the holding strap slightly on the thick side to keep it from compressing and would sever the strap a few inches below the back cut (with the longest bar I had).
I'm warming up the popcorn popper to watch the video!
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Svk- face the tree as usual and then full throttle traditional back cut but only on the side that had good wood left. Don't bore it. Good way to get pinched.
As far as up hilling trees, block face with a good snipe will keep it on the stump as long as possible and snipe will keep it up the hill for a second. You really need to anticipate what's up the hill and what might make the tree come back down. No convential face here unless you need to save the wood but that's for the pros. Humboldts and and snipes at the very least and a little step up in the back cut. I've had trees come 30 feet past the stump and that's big topped hardwood on what pnw guys would consider flat ground.
As far as up hilling trees, block face with a good snipe will keep it on the stump as long as possible and snipe will keep it up the hill for a second. You really need to anticipate what's up the hill and what might make the tree come back down. No convential face here unless you need to save the wood but that's for the pros. Humboldts and and snipes at the very least and a little step up in the back cut. I've had trees come 30 feet past the stump and that's big topped hardwood on what pnw guys would consider flat ground.
Here's a couple trees I'll be dropping later this week. Black cherry and American Elm. Both of them are partially uprooted and pose a threat to camp equipment that will be moved before I start cutting.
In my previous experience, Elm is so tough that it won't chair and cherry usually breaks at the hinge before it will chair. Anyone else have a different experience with these species?
In my previous experience, Elm is so tough that it won't chair and cherry usually breaks at the hinge before it will chair. Anyone else have a different experience with these species?
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Elm will split but won't chair. I'm always amazed at how strong it is. Cherry will chair, similar to ash. With them leaning like that I would buck them off like you would on the ground. Buck the entire far half off first, then under buck the near side bottom quarter, then finish the near side top quarter. Remember where the compression and tension wood is and how you need to get rid of what first. If they are hung up in anything the tension will change some. It always helps to buck that far side off first because you can get a better read of where the tree is going to go. If it's under side tension it could spring away from you or towards you. You need to read what the kerf is doing.
svk, of the 5 leaners in your photo there appears to be at least 4 species, correct? Regardless of species, I try to anticipate a chair on any leaner. Below is one of the "good" cherry I get to cut. No barber chair - probably due to the rotten core. A good core, at least in oak, would have been almost a guaranteed chair without some precautions. Ron
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