Bare Root

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Thillmaine

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I know industry practice is to remove as much of the cage as possible when planting trees. Do any of you guys/gals remove all of the cage, burlap, and soil? Then check for roots defects, cut back stubbed off root ends to laterals and plant bareroot? Something that has been going through my head for a long time. Especially when you consider soil interface( ball soil to native soil) issues, it seems as it would work pretty well, although all trees would need to be guyed. I know that we have all had our mishaps and plated a tree bare root, not on purpose and just wondering what sucess rates are with this practice.
 
Hmmmm, I am not sure what you are referring to in your post. However, we have planted tens of thousands of trees here bare root. On purpose. 99% of all forest property here is planted bear root. Conifer evergreen and deciduous trees as well. Oaks, ash, alder, firs, redwoods... also fruit trees. I buy my orchard trees from a guy here that has over 3,000 different types of fruit trees (mostly apples). I go over there in February and we just dig up trees bare root and I bring them home and plant them.

As for planting trees that are potted up... some of the trees I get bare root I pot up. I use a mix of local soil and ag perlite and peat. The peat breaks down and the potted soil reverts to local clay, so there is no abscission layer formed when they are planted later (any time, in or out of leaf). Also (I learned this when I got a cert. in horticulture) I cut the root ball with a knife, to force the roots to grow outward, and not in a loop in the soil. Nursery potted trees can be a problem with soil differences creating an abscission layer (boundary that the roots and water cannot grow through becasue of different soil type and chemistry). Again, cutting the roots with a knife will help prevent that from happening. I slice the outer potted roots about 1/2 inch deep with a razor box cutter. Usually a criss cross slice at the base, and 3 or 4 clices up the sides. Same with a burlap balled tree; cut the ropes and remove any wire, and slice and dice the roots right through the burlap. The burlap can be removed, or left. It will rot pretty fast. Works for me.
 
Before there were containers, there was barerooting. With all the problems in containers, it's coming back.

Slicing, well, I'd rather straighten crooked roots than cut them. More work but better results.
 
For our hedging cedars (Thuja plicata cultivars), we have stopped removing the burlap or even cutting the strings. We had too many problems with the trees falling over when the strings and root balls cut open. For these hedging cedars, they are very top heavy have a relatively tiny root ball with the roots only growing into half the dirt ball. (Out of a 12" diameter ball, the roots are only 6-8" deep).

Because these can be hedges with 20-50 trees in them, guying them is impractical.

Because they are sheared twice a year, the impact on growth is inconsequential.
 
For our hedging cedars (Thuja plicata cultivars), we have stopped removing the burlap or even cutting the strings.
See the attached for a picture of a rootball with uncut strings 5 years later. T plicata want to get huge. I think strings can be a big problem if uncut.
 
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I just excavated a string out of a very nice looking Picea glauca that I hope we got to soon enough.

The problem here is that people think that the fibers will decay, but the string and "burlap" end up being synthetic.
 
John, here in the DC area we have the same issues with sythetic burlap, many landscapers never remove the burlap, wire basket, or twine (often sythetic). The homeowners often call to complain about their unhealthy tree 5-10 years later, and when we inspect the tree, the root ball is either still wrapped up, buried significantly too deep, or both. Also the guys are still on the tree, slowly girdling it.
 
many landscapers never remove the burlap, wire basket, or twine (often sythetic).
Has anyone else appraised the loss of the plants so the owner could go after the landscaper for damages?

It is possible to valuate ten years of growth. It adds up.:censored:
 
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Has anyone else appraised the loss of the plants so the owner could go after the landscaper for damages?

It is possible to valuate ten years of growth. It adds up.:censored:

I would think cost of cure would be rather easy in that kind of situation. Replacement of like kind would be easy, but if it were formally maintained, one might want larger material to shape to like size after they establish, maintenance during the establishment period, say 3 years of watering and such?

In this area I've found tied balls in the ground and was told by the homeowner that the contractor wants to keep them like that for the first year to guarantee establishment.

Hmmm, you stick it in the ground, then come back the following year to disturb the roots that came out that spring??
 
Hmmm, you stick it in the ground, then come back the following year to disturb the roots that came out that spring??
Yeah that makes sense. Sure, they will come back. Uh huh. :monkey:

Yeah replacing with big plants is the better way to go, and to appraise.
 
See the attached for a picture of a rootball with uncut strings 5 years later. T plicata want to get huge. I think strings can be a big problem if uncut.

These trees go in the ground 6' tall (1' diameter root ball) and are usually maintained at less than 12' tall. As I said, these trees are extremly top heavy and when I've removed the strings and folded back the burlap, they have always fallen over in the first storm. Guying a 50 tree hedge is not really practical.

We do go back the next year and cut the top girdling strings.
 
That is a lifetime of job security, keeping Thujas 12' tall. And if you remove the top girdling strings and decide the lower ones are not critical, well, they may not be. But hey if it works for the client and the plants stay disease free then I guess it works.

Can you see the trunk flare on these things when you buy them? Sounds like a very small root ball, way substandard.
 
Can you see the trunk flare on these things when you buy them? Sounds like a very small root ball, way substandard.

I would think that the caliper would be at least 2 inches on those, by Nurseryman's Standards that should be around a 20 inch root ball.

But I guess if the get plenty of water...

We have a place here called MegaDiscount that sells everything with small root balls. They tried selling me a 8 inch tree with a 24 inch ball.
 
That is a lifetime of job security, keeping Thujas 12' tall. And if you remove the top girdling strings and decide the lower ones are not critical, well, they may not be. But hey if it works for the client and the plants stay disease free then I guess it works.

Can you see the trunk flare on these things when you buy them? Sounds like a very small root ball, way substandard.

Standard sized root ball for all growers in this area.
 
These trees go in the ground 6' tall (1' diameter root ball) and are usually maintained at less than 12' tall. As I said, these trees are extremly top heavy and when I've removed the strings and folded back the burlap, they have always fallen over in the first storm. Guying a 50 tree hedge is not really practical.

We do go back the next year and cut the top girdling strings.

Hm, staking them with a 2x4 or two when planted might give them a chance?

Guess these puppies are not good windbreaks eh. :D

:cheers:

Serge (and oh, welcome, become happy & corrupted, enjoy!~) :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw:
 
removing wire

I think that removing the wire is a must .Do I think commercial landscape will every do this no it is a way to much of a cost driven industry . I have removed hundreds if not thousands of dead trees planted in the last 10 years 100% of them having wire cage intact .Most have root-wire interference . So telling customer that wire degrades in a few years is crap.I am not saying that the wire killed all of these trees but it sure did not help them.
 

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