Been a while

[glens]

A couple of things:

We have "dry measure" and "fluid measure" with some of the same units by name, but which units differ in volume to account for free space between the particles of a dry medium.&nbsp; Maybe going out on a limb I'm assuming a "cord" is a "dry" type of measure such that were there not voids to account for it would require less overall volume.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.weights-and-measures.com/xcomfldryeq.html">http://www.weights-and-measures.com/xcomfldryeq.html</a> shows fluid:dry to be 7:6.&nbsp; 6/7=0.857 so I'm thinking that the aforementioned web page <i>meant</i> to say <b>85%</b> (of 128 cu. ft.) and not the <b>85 cu. ft.</b> it does say.&nbsp; 128&times;0.86=110, thus the net solid volume in a tightly-stacked "cord" of cordwood?&nbsp; Sounds darn good to me.

The thing Gypo was talking about is not really (directly) relevant since it referred to the volume of non-stacked wood necessary to obtain the properly-stacked measure.&nbsp; At any rate, using the inverse (7/6) multiplier on a cord itself would yield about 150 cu. ft. but like I said, I don't think it's relevant.&nbsp; I'm sure John's information is good for it's purpose.

The other thing is that I'd fetched and modified <a href="http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/forestry/g881.htm">http://www.ianr.unl.edu/pubs/forestry/g881.htm</a> so that the tables are listed by both the original alphabetic order, and also by the weight per cord, with eye-catching repetition of the column titles at the bottom of each full page.&nbsp; Enjoy this PDF version (attached, 4 pages, 16kB).&nbsp; (Except for the omission of beech, the list is just about perfect for my area.)

Glen

 

[max2cam]

If lesser quality firewood timber are easily obtained, they can be a good bet. If I have jackpine or popple (aspen) growing along my woods trails that I can drop and pile right along the road, that's good easy wood. I'd be happier if those trees were nice hickory or oak with clean 40 foot trunks. But here there is no hickory and the oak is up on the hill which involves more work, plus the branches are like springs and tangle up and are a hassle. There's nice black ash in the swamp, but that's harder to get out too. So I takes what I can gets!

But even "crappy" softwoods differ. I am no fan of popple (aspen), but I really like jackpine. I'll bet they weigh about the same per cubic foot, but jackpine is superior. It splits real easy when dry and maybe the pine resin in it helps too. It smells good too. Dense stands of jackpine have tall clean trunks that saw up easy with thin bark.

White birch, while a good hardwood, stinks when you burn it.

Oak sawdust smells best.

Black ash splits soooooooo easy!

Dry popple splits hard.

Red pine splits harder.

And big silver maple doesn't split at all....

It was splitting up a big red pine that got me into milling. Last winter I was up on the hill thinning a stand of mixed oak and pine. So here's this big red pine dead. So I cut it down and saw it up. The limbs made good firewood, but I was dreading splitting those big rounds. But what should I do? Just let it rot?

But man, it was a labor of Hercules splitting that big red pine by hand. Even with wedges. Very tough wood. But there was a lot of it and I took my time and it was free. But then moving on I soon encountered another big dead red pine. I looked at that thing and thought: "Maybe I should get out that lumber maker attachment and see how that thing works." I had only used it for sawing plywood with a chainsaw, but then tackled that big red pine. That's when I "stuck" my old 024 and then bought a Solo 690.

So in that sense, I have the best of all worlds. Unlimited firewood if I'm not choosy; timber for milling purposes; and nice straight balsam fir that make terrific round "2 x 4s" for building purposes. Balsam branches also make terrific kindling...

 

[max2cam]

Another factor in cutting firewood is when (if) you're managing (improving) your own woodlot. That's my situation. So I'm always on the lookout for trees that NEED to be cut -- species doesn't matter as much as that need. Two winters ago I took 2 HUGE popples (aspen) down. They were so big that I would have left them standing just because, but they were also blocking the winter sun to my solar panels so they had to go. It wasn't that I really wanted them for firewood, but their location gave me a good reason to cut 'em down.

 

[Fish]

I burn anything that fits in the stove. Ash,elm, Llama dung,
Hemp roots,synthetic oil literature, etc.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hey Fish, you will find that the Llama dung burns more adequately if it is saturated in a synthetic 2 stroke oil, such as Amsoil or Mobil MX2T. The stove can then be starved for air, thus creating more BTU's and rendering the chimney that much easier to clean

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hey Fish, you will find that the Llama dung burns more adequately if it is saturated in a synthetic 2 stroke oil, such as Amsoil or Mobil MX2T. The stove can then be starved for air, thus creating more BTU's and rendering the chimney that much easier to clean.
Frank's Planks

 

[Fish]

I see you are stutterring again. I am taking my anti-synthetic/
stabilizer war web-wide and attacking on all fronts, as these
infomercial geeks must be dropped in their tracks, or we will
never get any peace. The high-octane crowd as well, they are
vermin-scum that needs weeded out as well. You know who you
are, and I am gunning for you! I am loaded for bear, and ready
for action! OK, I am loaded......
This infomercial garbage is making the forums stale and silly,
and I vow to stamp it out, right or wrong.

 

[Stumper]

Django, Here's a pile for you. This is the last half of Harry's pile number 3!

 

[django]

Oh, buddy. That would last me a while. That is a lot of pickup truckloads. I would like to have a nice dump trailer, to cut down on the number of trips, but it kind of defeats the purpose of "saving money" by burning wood. Of course having 7 chainsaws soesn't really compute either. But at least my '85 diesel Chevy was cheap. As bad as I beat it up loading it and driving it through the woods, a nice truck makes no sense.

 

[bwalker]

I would like to have a nice dump trailer, to cut down on the number of trips, but it kind of defeats the purpose of "saving money" by burning wood

I am in the same boat. I have access to all the free wood I need. but I lack trailer to make it economicaly feasable. 40 mile round trips with a diesel pickup eats up alot of fuel to get 10 cords.

 

[turnkey4099]

Django:

My main frustration is finding someone to let me cut, as I don't own any woods. I live in a area that is equal parts farming and Manufacturing, and there are a lot of successful farmers that have trees to cut, but are afraid of liability. I don't blame them, but it is sad. ????

-------------

I solved that problem last year for a patch I wanted to cut in. Several contacts with the owner who was afraid of the liability. I then suppled a few references and topped it off with an offer to sign a "hold harmless agreement". I have had very good luck over 30 years getting permission to cut in overgrown groves.

I am with the "if it burns, use it" crowd. While I prefer Locust, Ash, etc, it is rare around here. To get good wood involves long drives. I can get all the soft wood I want withing a few miles of the house, can go out, cut and be back with a load (PU) in a few hours. I burn mostly Willow but in an airtight it lasts almost as long as locust and will hold a fire overnight.
I heat with wood for the pleasure of it and also the economics. Bottom line is BTU out of stove for the least $ cost. In my case, Willow beats anything else hands down unless I get lucky with a blowdown or such.

Harry K (30 cords (1/2 locust saving for old age) and 3 saws)

 

[django]

Yup, But, If you need 40 truckloads to get 10 cord, you need to go to the Django school of truck loading.(I kid) Of course, I can only go 30mph, so I probably defeat the purpose! People don't follow me very close, though What is worse for me, is the time change. I don't get off work 'till 4:00. It is dark at 5:30-6:00. So I end up cutting one night, and loading the next. I would cut when the light is more plentiful, but I hate the mosquito's and sweating my a@@ off. I really enjoy cutting in the fall. I think i would cut in the fall, even if I was cutting for someone else.

 

[django]

Turnkey, I have tried the "hold harmless" before, no luck. But references are golden. I just got permission to clear a ditch that is a few MILES long. But I was refered to this guy by a co-worker.
The farmer even offered the use of his loader. However, I also have to clear some brush, part of the deal. It's mostly dead Elm.
But I ain't picky. If you get Willow to supply good long heat, like Locust, you must have a magic stove. Cured Willow ia almost weightless. Like Cottonwood. I'll burn it, but not when it is really cold.

 

[django]

I don't feel so good.............

 

[buckwheat]

Oh, here's what happens to oak firewood here in FL.

What really stinks is that it prolly ended up in a PA landfill.

 

[glens]

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
I'm frigging amazed that you guys will cut down trees for free just to get the wood. People get used to folks like you working for free and then they wonder why people like me charge so much for treework.

Brian, you're working in an urban area in general, and one in particular where "firewood" is something (maybe) that gets used for a few minutes occasionally for "mood".&nbsp; That's just about at polar opposites from fetching fuelwood from a rural woodlot.

As amazing as it may seem, I'll drop and remove trees just for the fuel <i>and/or</i> drop and leave them for a couple hundred bucks each.&nbsp; It depends on the location and on the species.

Are you saying the oak was landfilled or was it just stuck in the container for transport?&nbsp; A picture can be worth negative actuality.

Glen

 

[MasterBlaster]

Firewood in the south ain't no way to make money.
Up north its a different story....

 

[glens]

Here's a newer version of the chart I posted earlier.&nbsp; It's got the table sorted alphabetically, reverse sorted by green weight, reverse sorted by dry weight, and finally by green:dry ratio.&nbsp; Who here didn't already think I was the curious sort?

8 page PDF file, 31710 bytes.

Glen

 

[turnkey4099]

Django, yep, you're right, fully dry willow produces more heat feeding the stove than burning it. I cut green, split, stack tight and then burn the next year. It is not fully cured but burns well. I did exaggerate a bit about lasting as long as Locust, that it doesn't but in airtight and shut down it does last.

Amazing but true, I found a book years ago that listed willow as one of the preferred woods for charcoal production. I think I still have that book and will have to go looking for it.

Harry K

 

[WRW]

Harry K.
What I found on willow charcoal was it's preferred use for manufacture of gunpowder and artists charcoal crayons. Must be the texture.