Best chain/bar/sprocket setup for MM'd 261 C-M

[drewdude]

Hello,

Saw is: 2015 Stihl MS 261 C-M

I have been running the stihl recommended bar/chain/sprocket (16" bar) combo for the last year and a bit now. I just muffler modded the saw yesterday and I notice she's got a bit more guts to her and I'd like to take advantage of that. I mostly just cut firewood (10-12 C per year), clear trails and Maintain the property (trees are anywhere from 6" to 20" but mostly in the middle - birch, Spruce, fir, juniper).

I'd prefer to just change the chain and if necessary sprocket to get the best setup for her to keep the cost down as I already have a spare stock bar. What kind of Stihl chain would you recommend (yes I've watched the many videos but it's hard to notice times)?

Please give me full part numbers please if you have them or a good deacription of parts.

I am willing to go full setup, bar chain and procket if there was a dream setup that really mates to the MM'd saw. My local dealer has the 261 tuning kit, 63PS chain with 16" bar. I've been considering that as well.

 

[drewdude]

I have 2 of the chains in boxes as seen in the photo below and one of the bars in a box as seen in the photo below.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

That's a fine setup on a 261. 50cc saws are kinda funny in that you can reasonably run 3/8lp, .325 or full sized 3/8 on them. They all have pros and cons, and in different conditions, one may be better than others. Without running all of them yourself on your saw in your application, there's no way to know which is best for you. Personally I'd keep what you've got, and pick up an 8 pin. 325 sprocket to try out. If you think you gained some grunt with the MM, you might like the results. Otherwise, it'll just give you more chain speed which will be nice for limbing, but you won't have quite the torque when you're bucking.

Good luck!

 

[Brian72]

The rapid micro(RM) is real good chain but it's not safety chain so it's more prone to kickback. You won't need to change the sprocket unless you change the chain gauge. I don't know if your saw has 3/8 or .325. I personally like the .325 on my smaller saws as it gives me a little more chain speed. Oregon makes very good chain too. Get some good files and keep the chain out of the dirt and all will do a fine job.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[grack]

I've tried several setup's but the .325 18 inch with stihl rs is my favorite on my 261.
And all my 50cc saw's.
I cut mainly hickory oak and ash here.

 

[Deleted member 135597]

I've tried several setup's but the .325 18 inch with stihl rs is my favorite on my 261.
And all my 50cc saw's.
I cut mainly hickory oak and ash here.

This is what I use on my 261cm too

 

[Brian72]

I'm glad you guys chimed in. I use the the RS also but mistakenly listed the RM.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[drewdude]

So probably stay away from the stihl ms261 tuning kit? The one with the PS 3/8 Lowpro chain?

Instead just change out to an 8pin sprocket? Would I need to change the chain to handle an 8pin sprocket? Or it should be okay with the existing chain?

 

[drewdude]

The rapid micro(RM) is real good chain but it's not safety chain so it's more prone to kickback. You won't need to change the sprocket unless you change the chain gauge. I don't know if your saw has 3/8 or .325. I personally like the .325 on my smaller saws as it gives me a little more chain speed. Oregon makes very good chain too. Get some good files and keep the chain out of the dirt and all will do a fine job.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

It's a .325 pitch at .050 gauge now.

 

[drewdude]

That's a fine setup on a 261. 50cc saws are kinda funny in that you can reasonably run 3/8lp, .325 or full sized 3/8 on them. They all have pros and cons, and in different conditions, one may be better than others. Without running all of them yourself on your saw in your application, there's no way to know which is best for you. Personally I'd keep what you've got, and pick up an 8 pin. 325 sprocket to try out. If you think you gained some grunt with the MM, you might like the results. Otherwise, it'll just give you more chain speed which will be nice for limbing, but you won't have quite the torque when you're bucking.

Good luck!

You don't by chance know the part number to the 8pin by .325 sprocket do you?

 

[Finnrpm]

Hello there!
Oregon has a new .325 chain for .050 gauge which could be worth testing with a 8-pin sprocket.
I have a 2010 ms-261 ( no m-tronic ) and using stihl's tuning kit, 16" bar & 3/8 picco super chain. Those ps chains are rather aggressive compared to other chains, but they are fast too.


Here's a chain comparison video. In this videoclip there is 8-pin picco sprocket, that is no longer available from stihl, nos maybe.....

RV

 

[Finnrpm]

You don't by chance know the part number to the 8pin by .325 sprocket do you?

0000 642 1234

 

[drewdude]

0000 642 1234

Thank you

 

[Brian72]

So probably stay away from the stihl ms261 tuning kit? The one with the PS 3/8 Lowpro chain?

Instead just change out to an 8pin sprocket? Would I need to change the chain to handle an 8pin sprocket? Or it should be okay with the existing chain?

The chain you have will be fine. Just make sure bar, chain and sprocket are all matching pitch and gauge. As you mentioned, you have .325 50 gauge.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[drewdude]

Hello there!
Oregon has a new .325 chain for .050 gauge which could be worth testing with a 8-pin sprocket.
I have a 2010 ms-261 ( no m-tronic ) and using stihl's tuning kit, 16" bar & 3/8 picco super chain. Those ps chains are rather aggressive compared to other chains, but they are fast too.


Here's a chain comparison video. In this videoclip there is 8-pin picco sprocket, that is no longer available from stihl, nos maybe.....

RV

what downsides have you noticed with this kit (i.e. Limbing ability and getting pinched and what not)? Almost seems to good to be true. And have you muffler modded your saw?

 

[drewdude]

The chain you have will be fine. Just make sure bar, chain and sprocket are all matching pitch and gauge. As you mentioned, you have .325 50 gauge.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

perfect thank you.

 

[Brian72]

Anytime. Just another thought, you could also keep your current sprocket and got to a longer bar. I run a 20" on mine. Much more comfortable limbing with the longer bars.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[drewdude]

Naw i like the 16" bar, I don't mind moving around a bit with it, just trying to find the optimal chain/sprocket/bar gauge combo to go with the saws new found power.

And I'm super curious about the stihl tuning kit for the ms261. But just don't know if I'm curious enough to invest in new chain, bar, sprocket and sharpening gear.

 

[Finnrpm]

what downsides have you noticed with this kit (i.e. Limbing ability and getting pinched and what not)? Almost seems to good to be true. And have you muffler modded your saw?

If this is considered as a MM, then i have.

I have not noticed any downsides on tuning kit. Reason to get the set was the bargain price. Bar, 3 chains & sprocket 90€ ( 100 usd )
Of course you might end up using that saved 20% time sharpening your chain......
Your setup is fine.
RV

 

[drewdude]

If this is considered as a MM, then i have.
View attachment 598265 View attachment 598266
I have not noticed any downsides on tuning kit. Reason to get the set was the bargain price. Bar, 3 chains & sprocket 90€ ( 100 usd )
Of course you might end up using that saved 20% time sharpening your chain......
Your setup is fine.
RV

So basically the only downside is it dulls quickly! Would I be able to get 5 or 6 tanks on one sharpening if mainly cutting softwood and a bit of birch?

I touch up a chain after a days use anyways.

Basically, it's either I'm going to stick with what I have and get an 8 pin sprocket

Or,

See if I can return my new bar that's still in a box and new chains that's still in a boxs to buy the tuning kit with a new bar. (This would almost Completely offset the cost)

What guage is the tuning kit? 0.05?