Best Chainsaw for brushing on the B.C. coast

[bswitch]

Hi, everyone.

I was happy to find this site today while researching saws. I guess there may have already been a similar discussion on this subject, but I'm going to start a new thread anyway. I'm doing some forestry brushing on the B.C. coast and need to get a smaller saw and was hoping someone might have some experience or knowledge that might help me pick one out. I currently own a Stihl FS 550 brushsaw and a Husky 372 chainsaw. The terrain I'm working on is quite steep and rocky and is for the most part unsuitable for using the brushsaw. I got the 372 for cutting much larger wood, and it's pretty tiring hauling it up and down the mountain all day. I'm cutting really small stems up to 6" stems, and I'm looking for a saw that is durable enough to run all day every day, capable of running a 20" bar if not a 24" and is much lighter and easier to carry on the slopes than my 372. Anyone have an opinion on the best saw for the job? Thanks.

 

[2yb3]

i guess youd have to have ful wrap? 357 xp will pull a 20" nd if its only small crap a 24" would work. It also depends on your dealer, whats closer and such. the stihl ms 361 is a good saw.

 

[SawTroll]

Hi, everyone.

I was happy to find this site today while researching saws. I guess there may have already been a similar discussion on this subject, but I'm going to start a new thread anyway. I'm doing some forestry brushing on the B.C. coast and need to get a smaller saw and was hoping someone might have some experience or knowledge that might help me pick one out. I currently own a Stihl FS 550 brushsaw and a Husky 372 chainsaw. The terrain I'm working on is quite steep and rocky and is for the most part unsuitable for using the brushsaw. I got the 372 for cutting much larger wood, and it's pretty tiring hauling it up and down the mountain all day. I'm cutting really small stems up to 6" stems, and I'm looking for a saw that is durable enough to run all day every day, capable of running a 20" bar if not a 24" and is much lighter and easier to carry on the slopes than my 372. Anyone have an opinion on the best saw for the job? Thanks.

I wonder why you need a 20-24" for cutting 6" wood - but what you request should fit a 560xp/562xp. Those are 60cc, but the wood sounds like a 50cc is more than enough - your bar specification doesn't suit those saws though.......:msp_confused:

 

[VI sawguy]

Definitely have a look at a 562XP, even better with a techlite bar. Smooth, lots of power for the size and lighter than your 372XP. Also able to use the bars off your 372. For a little less money you could get a 555 but they use the smaller bar mount so the bar won't interchange with your 372.

 

[bswitch]

I wonder why you need a 20-24" for cutting 6" wood - but what you request should fit a 560xp/562xp. Those are 60cc, but the wood sounds like a 50cc is more than enough - your bar specification doesn't suit those saws though.......:msp_confused:

Those saws are similar to my 372 in weight I believe, and I want the long bar so I don't have to bend over as far to cut, not to help get through the wood. Mostly just cutting smaller stuff up to 6" max for the most part. I thought about getting a 357 but I was hoping to get away with a smaller cheaper saw.

 

[Bluefish]

From my brief dealings with a 357XP I can tell you it is not a lightweight. Russ

 

[Trailtrimmer]

Those saws are similar to my 372 in weight I believe, and I want the long bar so I don't have to bend over as far to cut, not to help get through the wood. Mostly just cutting smaller stuff up to 6" max for the most part. I thought about getting a 357 but I was hoping to get away with a smaller cheaper saw.

6" wood is 40 to 50cc territory on which a 24" bar will jack the weight up and handle awkward. Nmurph has a 346xp for sale that would fit what you are looking for. The 60cc class won't be enough of a weight savings to justify the dollars spent.

 

[unatool]

Used 026 with muffler modifications. 20" Oregon pro-lite bar.
Nimble saw with nice balance, good enough power

 

[T0RN4D0]

6" wood and hauling it around all day sounds like a job for a 50cc saw like the 346xp, stihls 260, dolmar 5100 etc. 24" bar for 6" wood? dafuq?

 

[RandyMac]

My favorite brush/slash saw for steep ground was a 10-10 with a 28" bar. It worked great in Alder, Tanoak and busted up trees. If needed, it could fall and buck some fairly sizable wood.
I know that in this watered down era, a 28" seems extreme, the old growth might be gone, but the brush is the same. Go with a longer bar, save your back for other things, like humpin' your woman.

 

[Ronaldo]

I would agree that 50cc would be the way to go. Most 50cc saws are going to be around 14 lbs. with bar & chain , while your 372 is around 18 to 19 lbs. That doesnt sound like a big difference but at the end of a day it is! The old saying when looking at the weight of a firearm is that at the end of the day an ounce feels more like a pound. I would tend to agree. I like using the lightest weight saw possible to get the job done. Good Luck in your search.

Ron

 

[Zombiechopper]

long bar saving your back is *in my personal experience* not true at all. I've tried both ways, have a busted up back and much prefer the European philosophy.

Regardless, if you want to run 24" you need a 60cc saw which is not much lighter than a 372 so suck it up and start working out to handle the rig you want to use. When you compress a disk and develop arthritis then try a 346 13"/.325 setup

 

[Zombiechopper]

I thin overgrown fence line with a 200T. Brush so thick you can't walk without grabbing onto trees to pull yourself up over/into it in places, and often with steep sidehills from 100 years of blow dirt creating a ridge. I use a 12" bar which is still overkill on 6" limbs

 

[bswitch]

long bar saving your back is *in my personal experience* not true at all. I've tried both ways, have a busted up back and much prefer the European philosophy.

Regardless, if you want to run 24" you need a 60cc saw which is not much lighter than a 372 so suck it up and start working out to handle the rig you want to use. When you compress a disk and develop arthritis then try a 346 13"/.325 setup

I can pack my 372 all day no problem, but it does slow me down hauling it up steep terrain and frequently I find myself moving accross logs and slash where it can be very difficult to balance and falling or dropping the saw is not an option I want to consider. Maybe if I worked on my cardio it would help, but a lot of it has to do with just wanting to maximize the speed I move through the terrain, so I need a smaller saw. A 13" bar would be way to short for me, maybe if I was a midget. I like having the long bar so I can zing even the small stuff with minimal bending.

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to check out a 346xp or maybe an ms261. I'll have a look at the 562 maybe as well, but I think I want a lighter saw. I might just have to settle for a 20" bar.

 

[Trx250r180]

i run the oregon light bars ,a 28 inch is about same weight as a normal 20 inch bar ,makes huge difference at end of day

 

[StihlyinEly]

I can pack my 372 all day no problem, but it does slow me down hauling it up steep terrain and frequently I find myself moving accross logs and slash where it can be very difficult to balance and falling or dropping the saw is not an option I want to consider. Maybe if I worked on my cardio it would help, but a lot of it has to do with just wanting to maximize the speed I move through the terrain, so I need a smaller saw. A 13" bar would be way to short for me, maybe if I was a midget. I like having the long bar so I can zing even the small stuff with minimal bending.

Thanks for everyone's input. I'm going to check out a 346xp or maybe an ms261. I'll have a look at the 562 maybe as well, but I think I want a lighter saw. I might just have to settle for a 20" bar.

As mentioned before in this thread, if you choose Stihl, look at a used 026, which has a little less HP than the newer 261 but also less weight, and weight in this case is more important than HP. In wood that small, it'll spin a 20-inch chain just fine, and paired with a lightweight bar you'll have a light limbing/brushing saw with a relatively long 20-inch bar. Still some bending, but not as much as a standard/short bar.

My 026 is set up with a 16-inch B&C and is great for limbing and brushing. But then, I'm only 5-9, and that ain't far off the ground to begin with. Even closer to the ground if I cut limbs and brush on my uphill side.

I have to think one of the used versions of the 346 or 5100 would be just as effective set up that way.

 

[SawTroll]

Those saws are similar to my 372 in weight I believe, and I want the long bar so I don't have to bend over as far to cut, not to help get through the wood. Mostly just cutting smaller stuff up to 6" max for the most part. I thought about getting a 357 but I was hoping to get away with a smaller cheaper saw.

The 562xp is quite a bit lighter, and much neater to handle than a 372xp. :smile2:

 

[SawTroll]

From my brief dealings with a 357XP I can tell you it is not a lightweight. Russ

The 562 is lighter than the 357, and the 560 is even lighter.

 

[Alex D]

Id give the silky katanaboy a try. It would cut through the small 6" and under stuff like butter and its much much lighter and more manuverable than a chainsaw. Gives you added reach as well.

 

[Bluefish]

You are preaching to the choir Niko, I had my 562 and 357 sitting side by side in the garage and everyone thought the 562 felt lighter. Russ