Best firewood saw for scrounger

[Buckeye]

I just went through the same decision process. My application is similar to yours. I went with the Stihl MS361, and I'm happy with my choice.

Link: www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40569

.

 

[046]

if you are going to go with one saw. go with one at least 59cc. you've already got a little consumer saw with 141.

husky 359 is one of the most bang for the $$ pro saw available.

just so happens I've got a good used Husky 359 with 20in roller-nose bar for $325 + shipping.

Please PM with email for pic's if interested. original poster gets first shot at saw...

I scrounge wood, trees already down. I wouldlike your guys opinion on one good saw that will be good for many years. I currently have a husqvarna 141 and feel it is to small. The diameter of logs varies, and some wood is already cut to length. What is one saw you guys would not leave home with out. Husky 359, 357?? I dont want to spend a fortune if not needed. I burn maybe 4 cord a year and thats it. I probably have no other use for the saw than cutting my own firewood. Thanks for every one who replies

 

[windthrown]

Smaller does not mean lighter...

If you are only cutting 4 cords, do NOT get anything as large as a Stihl MS361. It is a terrific firewood saw but not for what you are doing. Use a smaller, lighter, homeowner type of saw with a 14 inch bar. Less fatigue, handier in the tangle of branches you will be working in, easier to control and much safer for you! Chains are cheaper and you will go through a few because the city pushes the trees around in the dirt with their loader. And be careful in those piles, those stems can be under tension and can smack you. Use PPE. Good luck

Hugh

I wood have to interject here and disagree. The MS 361 is actually LIGHTER than many homeowner saws with less power. For example, a the most popular saw that Stihl makes, the Stihl MS 290 is heavier and less powerful than a 361 (12.3 v.s 13 lb, 4.4 vs 3.8 HP). The 361 has good anti-vib and the decomp button, and those two items alone are going to be far better on your arms and body when cutting firewood, which the 361 was designed for. If you want cheaper shorter chains, you can always put a 16" bar on a 361. Buy quality, and you will never have to look back or second guess youself.

 

[jimsfirewood]

Hi Windthrown - Not being negative at all about MS361. I cut 100 cords a year and most of it is with a 361/20 bar. It's a great saw IMO. But I don't use it for tsi because I get too tired lugging it around.
Firebuckeye has a Husky 141 and he only wants 4 cords. I got no idea what kind of saw that is but I assume it is some kind of small homeowner saw. Use that, Firebuckeye. Those 30" stems: how are you going to pick those up if you do cut them. A skid loader with a Virnig grapple on it is one good method. Alternatively a hammer and a bunch of splitting wedges. But it's just so much easier to pick out nice small oak or other good items, put it in your truck, no back strain, little fatigue, minimal safety issues. GL Hugh

 

[wdchuck]

Big rounds can be ripped fairly easily into manageable halves or quarters, goes quick if the cut is with the grain, not on a cut face. In a finished area like the county dump spot big pieces could easily be rolled up some 2x8's, or halve them and use a decent dolly and truck them up the planks.

That's how I've been saving my back for three years now, a high quality bungee, tight, will keep the piece on the dolly, doug fir is good plank material. It goes pretty quick, and the others at the cut site may like the idea, get home for the game quicker.

 

[zemmo]

Thank you for the long reply. And toanswer as far as how big of woodI want, where I goits trees the city dumps. And when I was out there the other day I took a tree guy with me and he said with what he saw he thinks I need a 24 inch bar. I would be much happier with smaller wood, I just dont think I would have that choice always. It may get busy out there some days and all i would have access to might be big stuff. I have a Husky 141 now as well, so if its real small I got that covered. Again thank you all, this information I am getting is very helpful and would not be able to make a good descision with out all this feedback. Keepletting me know what you guys think. Also they let you split wood there on sight so big pieces will not be moved as much,I can spint then put on trailer. I think its going to be a sweet setup.

Your setup sounds great! If you really want to run a 24" bar, you might consider a 7900 Dolmar, just to throw a big, light saw into the mix that loves a 24" bar. If I'm bucking big rounds I just make the lengths shorter, keeps the rounds lighter and makes splitting easier.

 

[NapalmDeath]

I just went through the same decision process. My application is similar to yours. I went with the Stihl MS361, and I'm happy with my choice.

Link: www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40569

.

I'm so jealous.

 

[windthrown]

Not too much more weight, really

Hi Windthrown - Not being negative at all about MS361. I cut 100 cords a year and most of it is with a 361/20 bar. It's a great saw IMO. But I don't use it for tsi because I get too tired lugging it around.
Firebuckeye has a Husky 141 and he only wants 4 cords. I got no idea what kind of saw that is but I assume it is some kind of small homeowner saw. Use that, Firebuckeye. Those 30" stems: how are you going to pick those up if you do cut them. A skid loader with a Virnig grapple on it is one good method. Alternatively a hammer and a bunch of splitting wedges. But it's just so much easier to pick out nice small oak or other good items, put it in your truck, no back strain, little fatigue, minimal safety issues. GL Hugh

Husky 141 chainsaw: 40.2 cc, 2.6 hp, 10.1 lb
Stihl 361 chainsaw: 59 cc, 4.4 hp, 12.3 lb

Not to nitpick, but the 361 has nearly twice the power as the Husky and only 2.2 lb more weight to lug around. I think that the added power outweighs the weight differential as you are going to cut about half the time for the same wood. Far less cutting fatigue.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Good luck cutting 20"+ hardwood with that 141, you'll be there all afternoon.

FWIW, I think for 4 cords a year, you can avoid the biggest of the big stuff and stick with 20" and under wood. For that the 5100 or the 359 with a 16" bar would suit you fine and as someone else said I think, they would also be adequate for running a 20" bar on occasion.

You've got lots of folk pulling you in 20 different directions... ignore them all. They're all wrong, I'm all right, at least I would be if it weren't for my left side. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Ian

 

[bytehoven]

They're all wrong, I'm all right, at least I would be if it weren't for my left side. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Ian

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[firebuckeye]

I realize a lot of that would will be heavy but by being able to split right there on the spot should make it less of an issue. And really till I do it i wont know. It could turn out to be a big mistake. I feel a 361 would be good because I could always try and run a smaller bar and if needed to or wanted to go step up to a 24" bar. I am leaning real heavy towards the 361. Money is an issue but I am single and decent job so I could usually get the tools I want. I tend to buy way better quality than I need, and will never wear out. I also have a saw mill that sells oak end cuts for 30 dollars for a pick up bed load, equate sto 3/4 cord i believ. And thats tigthly stacked. I am picking some up wednesday and will burn that stuff for awhile before I invest big in scrounging for cord wood. If this stuff turns out to be good wood and easy to heat with I may just way it all out on cost verses convienence. I want the new saw but not if it just sits in garage. I have learned a lot from everyone and I apprerciate it. I fany one is ready and burns end cuts from a mill let me know what you think.

Brad

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Well now... if money isn't an issue then I will change my recommendation to the 361. I thought you were trying to pinch pennies. A 361 will set you up nicely and probably still be your primary saw 20 years from now if you treat it right. 18" bar and Stihl RM (not RM2) chain and a 24" bar with Bailey's 30SCS will be just the trick.

Ian

 

[windthrown]

Recommend for 20" bar?

Well now... if money isn't an issue then I will change my recommendation to the 361. I thought you were trying to pinch pennies. A 361 will set you up nicely and probably still be your primary saw 20 years from now if you treat it right. 18" bar and Stihl RM (not RM2) chain and a 24" bar with Bailey's 30SCS will be just the trick.

Ian

Now ain't that a coincidence... I have an 18" bar (stock safety chain) on my 361 and a 24" bar for it. I also have a 20" on my 290. I am thinking of swapping out the 20" onto the 361 and put the 18" on the 290. What chain would you recommend for the 20"?

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Now ain't that a coincidence... I have an 18" bar (stock safety chain) on my 361 and a 24" bar for it. I also have a 20" on my 290. I am thinking of swapping out the 20" onto the 361 and put the 18" on the 290. What chain would you recommend for the 20"?

Depends on what you're cutting... dirty wood, then semi-chisel like Stihl RM (not RM2) or equivalent, clean wood then round chisel like Stihl RS, RSC or equivalent. Firebuckeye is working dozer piles so semi-chisel is the way to go IMO.

Now my legal statement.. I have never run RM or RS. I am making the mistake of spewing up what I have read. I have read RM cuts faster than RM2 chain and RS is just Stihl's non safety round chisel chain. I have run RM2 and didn't like it much. I have run Stihl RSC (low vibe RS), and Bailey's 30RC on my 18, and Bailey's 30SCS (semi-chisel skip) on the 24" bar altho I haven't had the 24 buried yet.

FWIW,
Ian

 

[firebuckeye]

Well I bought the MS361 w/24" bar and chain today and cut a few tank fulls. I am happy with it but what i learned was that it defnately is not to much power. t seems to have trouble pulling through the wood. I am cutting on Black Cherry right now. Also I learned hard wood is very heavy! Jimsfirewood made a comment about moving 30" rounds and he was right. They are heavy and I may not want to mess with the big stuff. Ether way I can switch to a smaller bar and still have a nice saw. I assume a 18" bar will be no problem with this saw. Only complaint is 24" is to big for this saw, in my opinion. Thanks for everyones help in selecting this saw. Also I purchase it in Centerville OH at Centerville Gravely. Rck helped me out and he is very knowledgable, I would like everyone to know how happy I was with their service. They are top knotch down there.

 

[zemmo]

Your setup sounds great! If you really want to run a 24" bar, you might consider a 7900 Dolmar, just to throw a big, light saw into the mix that loves a 24" bar. If I'm bucking big rounds I just make the lengths shorter, keeps the rounds lighter and makes splitting easier.

Well I bought the MS361 w/24" bar and chain today and cut a few tank fulls. I am happy with it but what i learned was that it defnately is not to much power. t seems to have trouble pulling through the wood. I am cutting on Black Cherry right now. Also I learned hard wood is very heavy! Jimsfirewood made a comment about moving 30" rounds and he was right. They are heavy and I may not want to mess with the big stuff. Ether way I can switch to a smaller bar and still have a nice saw. I assume a 18" bar will be no problem with this saw. Only complaint is 24" is to big for this saw, in my opinion. Thanks for everyones help in selecting this saw. Also I purchase it in Centerville OH at Centerville Gravely. Rck helped me out and he is very knowledgable, I would like everyone to know how happy I was with their service. They are top knotch down there.

Hey, maybe I was correct for once...

 

[zemmo]

you might also experiment with full or semi-skip on that 24". And of course keep the chain sharp.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Do a search in the chainsaw forum for muffler mods and wake that saw up a bit, and Zemmo is right on about the skip chain if you are burying that 24"er in hardwood.

Ian

 

[windthrown]

Chains for dirty cutting...

Depends on what you're cutting... dirty wood, then semi-chisel like Stihl RM (not RM2) or equivalent, clean wood then round chisel like Stihl RS, RSC or equivalent. Firebuckeye is working dozer piles so semi-chisel is the way to go IMO.

Ian

Yah, I seem to be cutting variable dirty/clean wood. Yesterday I was out cutting slash piles for a half cord and noticed that some of the wood had some sand, dirt and stuff on it. I keep the bar out of the dirt, but I cannot keep the dirt off of all the wood that I cut. So I will use an RM which they say runs better in dirty conditions. Baileys says that their 30SCS chain runs good in dirty wood as well, so I will have to order a loop or two from them. I also found a full chisel 20" in the barn, along with about six 18" chains of various types (chisel, safety and semi) that the 'former' administration seems to have left here. So I will be set for loops.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I'm pretty sure that the consensus is that 18" is about the optimum bar length for the 361. What chain did they set you up with? New or used saw? If new, it will gain in power some as it breaks in.

Ian