Best homeowner saw (specifics in message)

[fre1102]

I've been lurking here for a long time. I'm reading the 'Best Saw Ever' thread now, and I read another thread like it about a year ago.

Best saw (for me) details:

I'm clearing three acres of heavily overgrown land in my spare time. Everything from 1-inch honeysuckle I use loppers on, to their trunks, which can be a foot around (and wet) to larger hardwoods, to a few oaks and maples that are several feet in diameter.

I might cut up some firewood if the opportunity presents itself.

I might work for a week straight in the summer and one year I used the saw maybe 80 or 90 days total. I've also gone a year not touching it when my real job was busy.

I'm using a Poulan Pro 4218 that's flaking out on me again. I've been nursing it, but I HATE that thing. It's all plastic and it feels like the saw was designed to cut up someone's nursery tree that fell over, then trash. But it's got an engine and I'm at least kinda competent at keeping it going (until today) so I've been toughing it out.

More than anything I want a saw I won't NEED to replace again. If I upgrade, I want it to be a choice. I want it to be serviceable--preferably EASILY serviceable--by me. I want parts to be available. I'd like them to not be six times more expensive than another brand. I'd like it to say tuned once it's tuned.

So it can be small now (like 30cc, 12-14 inch bar) because that's big enough to cut most of the stuff I want to clear and I can either call a guy with a $1500 saw to cut the big ones, or I can buy a bigger saw when i get to those trees.

Or I can buy a 40-ish cc, 16-18 inch bar saw now and use it for the smaller stuff and some larger stuff if that's where all the quality equipment is.

I'm going to maintain it. No--I'm going to baby it. I mean, I'll use it pretty good, but it'll get maintained just as good. In exchange for maintaining it religiously, I want it to last. I'll take care of it, I want it to take care of me.

I'd like to buy it used--I can't justify dropping big money on something just to avoid frustrating myself with the Poulan. I can also buy used Poulans all day long for $50. They're...not great, but they work and they're $50, and I'm not a pro and don't ahve anybody to impress with my chainsaw.

The thread from last year had someone asking kind of the same question about Stihl 0XX saws. I started looking at those online (they're cheap, and they must be tough if they lasted that long) but a lot of the answers here were, "those were great when they were new but they're too heavy and buzzy now. We (on this forum) collect them because they're cool and because we collect saws, but I wouldn't actually USE one now. Also parts might be hard to get." so I stopped looking at those. But I'm not making a living with this thing every day, so buzzy and heavy aren't really a deterrent. If it gets too heavy I can just go do something else for a while.

Anyway, the Poulan flaked on me again this afternoon (hard start, flooding. Got it started eventually and won't stay running. Won't rev at full throttle, down on top end power, and gas tank is pressurized (blowing air OUT) when I take off the cap--like an aerosol can. It didn't run any better when I took off the cap while it was runnung. It's also leaking bar oil like a seive. There's a lot going on there. It's been sitting for six months, but I ran it dry last time I used it and cleaned it before I put it up. Blew out the cap vents) and I don't want to tear it down again and it was getting late so I stomped in and started looking on Facebook so I can finally buy a decent saw.

I know (a little) about Stihls. There are a LOT of 170 saws for sale around $100. For $100 if it's half decent and I can maintain it into lasting forever, I'll get one of those. I think I saw a 180 and a 192, too.

There's a 260 for $300. I think it's a 260C, not the new C-M-whatever it is. But the 260 should last me until I give it to my kid in twenty years. It's almost definitey more saw than I need, but it'll feel like going from working on a 1992 Kia to working on a Benz, I assume. $300 is more than I want to spend, but if I'll be happy I bought it and it's the last saw I need to buy I could be happy with that. I understand the 260s are meant to be serviced. That's worth some money.

There are a lot of 250s for $200 - $300. I think I understand enough about the 250 vs. 260 that I think the 260 is worth the extra $100. There's a 250 that won't oil for $100. Now, a $100 250 sounds like catnip to me, and I'll bet it's that oil key behind the clutch and I could fix that quick. But if it's not that and it's A Thing to fix than I've got myself another project. A nicer project than the 4218, but still a project. I'd like to clear some honeysuckle and a fallen maple before it gets cold. Maybe I should avoid the $100 250.

There's a Dolmar PS540 for $260. I don't know anything about Dolmars except people here have mentioned them.

There was a Stihl 034 for cheap--like $150.

An MS162 and MS193, both for around $200. The "62" makes me think that's the smaller version of the 260--it's built well? Meant to be maintained? I know nothing about a 193.

A McCulloch Pro Mac 610--61cc!!! but with a 16-inch bar. I know nothing about that brand but that seems like a big engine for a 16-inch bar.

An Echo CS-300 for $75.

A LOT of Husky 440, 445, 450, 455 saws. I don't know anything specific about Huskys except some guys like them. I looked for 347xps because someone mentioned them in another thread but I didn't see any.

Anyway, those are my rambling thoughts for the best saw for me--I want it to be durable, reliable, and maintainable. I'd like it to be nice to use--to do its job well without frustrating the hell out of me. It doesn't need to be big, but big is fine if it needs to be big to be the first three things (for all I know the small saws are all designed to be disposable). It can be old and heavy and buzzy if it's durable and relaible and maintainable and I can get parts.

So what makes and models should I be searching for on Facebook? Thoughts on price are also welcome if you want to hazard those.

Thanks for reading all that. Any advice welcome.

 

[Mad Professor]

Probably more saw than you need but I'd have a look at the 034 for $150. If it runs good you could flip it for more.

 

[thompsoncustom]

I'd also buy the ms250 for $100 bucks probably a cheap and easy fix.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Dont live anywhere near you, have no experience cutting your local timbers, but I do know most the saws you are talking about- although it might have been a typo that you were looking for a 347? 346XP- yes- but then so is everyone else.

Sounds like you are ready to move away from plastic cased consumer saws, so forget all the 4## Husqvarnas you mention- I do not have a lot of love for them once they are past the first owner.
Same with the Stihl 170's and 180's and the 193 was never great from the get go.
Dolmars are solid old tanks- but harder to find parts for.
Wee Echos are good for the money- but not a huge step up from the Poulan.
Forget the 610 cinder block- honest old saw in its day- but its day was a LONG time ago.

025's/ 250 are good wee saws, some folk have issues cold starting them- but they are not bad- but the 260 is leaps and bounds better in your criteria.
The 034 is a good honest provider- but maybe middle ground from what you normally cut and what you will ask the guy with the $1,500 saw to come cut.

Cheap and fit your criteria is hard to match, secondhand saws are always a gamble- pays to know what you are looking at, or have someone with you that does or you might be lining up projects.

Maybe a nice old 028 would suit you well and often can be picked up cheaply- no doubt will need some work though to be in top condition and just be aware some of the older ones did not have a chainbrake- but the hand guard sure looks like they do.
Or if you can find a good shape 346, or 353 Husqvarna- great smaller saws.
024 might be a bit small for your needs- but those, or an 024 super model are about the smallest magnesium cased saws Stihl made and the predecessor of the 026 that became the 260.
254XP is another possible, or 42 special- both getting older now- but good wee saws from Husqvarna.

Now the Dolmars are basically has beens- Makita took them over but now have discontinued gasoline powered tools.
Echos- I do not have a lot of experience with.
Stihl and Husqvarna are fairly common and parts are available both OEM and aftermarket.

 

[sean donato]

Logically you want a pro 40-50cc saw. You've pretty much clearly stated you don't want to spend new money. I get the impression you're not familiar enough with saws to go the used route without trepidation.
Go buy an echo. Not the highest power, kinda heavy for the size saw. But they are absurdly simple and reliable. (I mean their design hasn't changed much since the 80's, doesn't get anymore simple.) Recently got to run a friend's cs400, decent saw for its size. Underpowered for the 20" bar that was on it. I'd wager it would have been quite happy with a 16" bar on it. They have several newer models to choose from as well. 4010, 4510 and 4910. The 400 and 501 should be available too.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Sounds like you need dealer support too. I would tell you to be looking at echo saws.

You want to be able to get parts too. So reason for that too if needing dealer support local and dont know how to troubleshoot your own stuff.

Some new in that budget. https://www.echo-usa.com/chainsaws IMHO stay away from the 310 small one. Look at 40cc up to 50cc

 

[fre1102]

I get the impression you're not familiar enough with saws to go the used route without trepidation.
Go buy an echo. Not the highest power, kinda heavy for the size saw. But they are absurdly simple and reliable. (I mean their design hasn't changed much since the 80's, doesn't get anymore simple.) Recently got to run a friend's cs400,

I'm fine with used--probably prefer it. What I want to avoid are any "you can't get those parts anymore", "if that should-be-easy-to-get part/assembly breaks you just have to toss it", or "yeah, on that saw the carb is weird and never works right and you can't tune or fix it and you can't just replace it because the block has a weird mounting pattern".

I'll happily take an old saw that I have to rebuild from the ground up if I can buy all the parts reasonably and I don't need special expensive tools unique to that saw nly and there are online resources describing how to do it. Rebuilding it over the winter means I learn how it works and I know it's put together well.

I had a 2006 car that has sealed LED taillights. You can't buy new ones, you can't rebuild them, and no one's making remanufactured ones--or they weren't for a long time, anyway. I'd like to avoid the saw version of that car.

Used, and YouTube and something like this forum has a deep knowledge base and I can buy parts online would be perfect. I'd love that saw. Or at least not incredibly rare, no parts, no one knows anything about them. I'd like it to last forever--or at least a really long time--if I maintain it.

There's an Echo CS400. Also a Redmax G5000. People on here had nice things to say about both of those. Looks like the Redmax might be tricky with parts. On the other hand, I could port that Redmax it looks like. That'd be fun.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

[Del_]

I'd go with the 034. I doubt it's the 'Super' version but that would be even better. It's a little heavy for a bunch of one inch cuts though, IMO,

A Stihl 261C would be a great saw for what you are doing.

Sharp chains make all the difference.

I enjoy very much my two 241C's.

One has semi chisel for low and dirty cuts (low enough for a mower to clear) and the other is kept as sharp as possible using full chisel chain.

 

[fre1102]

Sounds like you need dealer support too. I would tell you to be looking at echo saws.

You want to be able to get parts too. So reason for that too if needing dealer support local and dont know how to troubleshoot your own stuff.

Some new in that budget. https://www.echo-usa.com/chainsaws IMHO stay away from the 310 small one. Look at 40cc up to 50cc

I'll never, ever take it to a dealer if I can help it. That said it would be nice to have a dealer as a backup if I just can't figure it out.

 

[fields_mj]

If you're trying to clear 3 acres that has everything from honey suckle to trees that are several feet across, and you're not willing to spend $1k on equipment, you are NOT going to get something that you're not going to need to work on. This is how you wound up with the Poulan that you currently hate.

Personally, I'd buy a cheap clone weedeater in the +40cc range ($250ish), and put a Forester brush cutter head on it (the kind with chainsaw teeth), and use that on the honeysuckle. You'll have all the honeysuckle cut off the property in a day or two. When it starts to sprout again (and it WILL, because cutting it down just makes it angry), spray the new foliage with some Crossbow herbicide mixed at 6 oz per gallon.

As far as chainsaws go, if you're routinely cutting anything over about 6", the Stihl MS260 or equivalent, is about as low as I'd go. $300 for a used 260 in good shape is a reasonable price, but I'd personally recommend looking for the newer MS261 because its a nice bump up in power. IMHO, the 260 is well suited for firewood that's 12" and under. It can definitely handle wood that's much larger than that, it just takes longer. IIRC, the 026/260/261 power heads are less than a pound heavier than the MS170 and 180, but the MS170/180 use a much lighter bar. I've used a MS180 once. I hated it. Pound for pound, I'll take a 10lb - 11lb powerhead every time because I don't have the patience to wait on a 9.5 lb power head to eventually get the job done...

If the 034 is an 034 Super, and it runs, buy it. $150 is a steel, and at that price it's worth buying and fixing if need be. The 034 Super IS the same saw as an 036 and MS360 which is what I run mostly. I'm in the process of rebuilding one of mine. New piston, bearings, and seals. I'm into it the repair for about $140 so far. If you DO have to ever replace the Piston and Cylinder, use parts for an 036/360 as they are a direct fit. The 034 - MS360 were made for a LONG time, and are very tough saws. IMHO, they are ideal for cutting firewood up to 18"-20" across. Again, they will cut stuff that's a LOT bigger than that, but that's their sweet spot IMHO. Now, if you buy an MS261, and the 034, you may decide that the 034 isn't that much better than the 261. If that happens, you'll be able to get your money back out of the 034.

IMHO, you should get the clone weedeater and an MS261 or equivalent (11lb power head, 4 hp) and then reassess your needs after using those for a year. Even used, the MS261 should last you a few decades if you take care of it, and makes a great small saw for anyone's 2 or 3 saw plan if you decide you want something bigger. I'd also get the 034 just because it's $150, but that's just my CAD talking...

 

[sean donato]

I'm fine with used--probably prefer it. What I want to avoid are any "you can't get those parts anymore", "if that should-be-easy-to-get part/assembly breaks you just have to toss it", or "yeah, on that saw the carb is weird and never works right and you can't tune or fix it and you can't just replace it because the block has a weird mounting pattern".

I'll happily take an old saw that I have to rebuild from the ground up if I can buy all the parts reasonably and I don't need special expensive tools unique to that saw nly and there are online resources describing how to do it. Rebuilding it over the winter means I learn how it works and I know it's put together well.

I had a 2006 car that has sealed LED taillights. You can't buy new ones, you can't rebuild them, and no one's making remanufactured ones--or they weren't for a long time, anyway. I'd like to avoid the saw version of that car.

Used, and YouTube and something like this forum has a deep knowledge base and I can buy parts online would be perfect. I'd love that saw. Or at least not incredibly rare, no parts, no one knows anything about them. I'd like it to last forever--or at least a really long time--if I maintain it.

There's an Echo CS400. Also a Redmax G5000. People on here had nice things to say about both of those. Looks like the Redmax might be tricky with parts. On the other hand, I could port that Redmax it looks like. That'd be fun.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

Skip the pre husqy redmax/ zenoah saws. I love them, great saws. Parts are getting harder to non existent for them. Newer models are decent, and have husqy counterparts. Parts galore.
Your comparison of saw to car is also deeply flawed, apples to a cinder block. if the model made it to today, in some form or another, you'll be able to get (most) parts for it. Stop looking at old junk, modern av and air filtration alone is worth looking at newer saws. I'd personally skip just about every 0xx stihl and stay with the ms series. I don't like loosing feeling in my hands for hours after running them, and having my hands tingle for days afterwards. No one is getting any younger. I'd skip the 2xx husqy series for much the same reason. Lots of great saws, much better av and filtration then stihls of the day. Just old saws not worth having as a primary/ only saw
Ms261 is a great 50cc saw, come up used in decent shape frequently. Modern av and filtration. I'm no fan of the ms360-362, better options available from husqy, but they were made forever and well liked by many. Husqy 359,357xp,550xp and 562xp are all great saws. Lots of parts available for them. The mk2 550xp amd 562xp have been very good saws, although I never had any real issues with my 2012 562xp till covid struck and you couldn't get parts for anything. The guy that bought it off me is still running it after getting a new carb. All the above besides the 261 and 550 are ~60cc saws. Stihl ms241, much loved by those that had/have them. Recently discontinued in the states. That pretty much sums up "used" without getting into semi pro/ Farm and ranch models or home owner saws. Still just brings right back around to grabbing a new echo, for the same money, 5 year warranty and not have to worry about someone else's possible basket case for the same money.

 

[fre1102]

If you're trying to clear 3 acres that has everything from honey suckle to trees that are several feet across, and you're not willing to spend $1k on equipment, you are NOT going to get something that you're not going to need to work on.

I put a ton of work into this stuff. I'd like to move into a saw that's less frustrating, I guess.

This is how you wound up with the Poulan that you currently hate.

The Poulan was two houses ago "I don't know how much I'll use this thing so let's not spend a lot of money". It came with me when I moved and I've been able to keep it going so far. But it needs something just about every use or so.

Personally, I'd buy a cheap clone weedeater in the +40cc range ($250ish)

I've gotten into the Troy-Bilt/Craftsman/whoever really builds it two-strokes, only because I had one before this house and could keep it running--though mostly that's just pull cords and the recoil mechanism and the fuel lines. Then I bought more because I'm familiar with them and they're cheap. I have three power heads now and four straight ends and one curved. Smallest is 25cc, I think, Biggest I have is 30-something cc. Straight shaft, swappable tool ends. And now that you said it, it seems like someone would make a trimmer with more displacement and more umph. I've got a four stoke power head, too, but I prefer the two strokes.

and put a Forester brush cutter head on it (the kind with chainsaw teeth), and use that on the honeysuckle.

One tool end is just that--chainsaw teeth. One is a sort of circular saw blade. One is the metal disc with pivoting metal blades (good if you catch the rat bastards before they get too woody and faster than the first two) and one is the Shakespere(?) metal lined plastic blades (generic weeds). The curved head is just a string trimmer. The circular saw blade seems to work best on honeysuckle. I wonder if that's because the power head doesn't have enough guts to spin the chainsaw blade through it. It binds pretty easy. The circular saw blade will do a four or five inch one if you're slow and don't want to get the chainsaw for some reason.

You'll have all the honeysuckle cut off the property in a day or two.

I'll go get a picture of the one I spent the weekend on. You can cut it down in five minutes, yes. Hauling it off, clearing the other stuff under it, the vines growing through it, snaking up into the trees... Some days I make pretty good progress. Sometimes it's a weekend for 50 square feet of yard. If you can clear the property in a day or two, I've got money and I'll pay for the hotel and food. Let's get this done.

When it starts to sprout again (and it WILL, because cutting it down just makes it angry), spray the new foliage with some Crossbow herbicide mixed at 6 oz per gallon.

I don't know which one Crossbow is, but I've been using some Ranger glyphosate from Amazon at...I forget concentration. Cut stump, IMMEDIATELY apply glyphosate to stump. It's slow to do, but it's kept them dead.

As far as chainsaws go, if you're routinely cutting anything over about 6", the Stihl MS260 or equivalent, is about as low as I'd go. $300 for a used 260 in good shape is a reasonable price, but I'd personally recommend looking for the newer MS261 because its a nice bump up in power. IMHO, the 260 is well suited for firewood that's 12" and under. It can definitely handle wood that's much larger than that, it just takes longer. IIRC, the 026/260/261 power heads are less than a pound heavier than the MS170 and 180, but the MS170/180 use a much lighter bar. I've used a MS180 once. I hated it. Pound for pound, I'll take a 10lb - 11lb powerhead every time because I don't have the patience to wait on a 9.5 lb power head to eventually get the job done...

This is very useful. Thanks.

If the 034 is an 034 Super, and it runs, buy it.

It's an 034AV. But it runs.

$150 is a steel, and at that price it's worth buying and fixing if need be. The 034 Super IS the same saw as an 036 and MS360 which is what I run mostly. I'm in the process of rebuilding one of mine. New piston, bearings, and seals. I'm into it the repair for about $140 so far. If you DO have to ever replace the Piston and Cylinder, use parts for an 036/360 as they are a direct fit. The 034 - MS360 were made for a LONG time, and are very tough saws.

It runs. If I should buy it and use it for $150 then put the bigger piston and cylinder on it, that's fine too.

IMHO, they are ideal for cutting firewood up to 18"-20" across. Again, they will cut stuff that's a LOT bigger than that, but that's their sweet spot IMHO. Now, if you buy an MS261, and the 034, you may decide that the 034 isn't that much better than the 261. If that happens, you'll be able to get your money back out of the 034.

$300 for a 261, or are there better deals to be had if I look around?

IMHO, you should get the clone weedeater

I'm not super up on the vocabulary--clone isn't a brand, right? It's a clone of something like a Stihl weedeater? Just Google 'clone'? Any I want specifically and these are more durable than the Troy Bilt fleet? They take the same attachments?

and an MS261 or equivalent (11lb power head, 4 hp) and then reassess your needs after using those for a year. Even used, the MS261 should last you a few decades if you take care of it, and makes a great small saw for anyone's 2 or 3 saw plan if you decide you want something bigger. I'd also get the 034 just because it's $150, but that's just my CAD talking...

That's what I'm talking about. TWO saws that last forever. I mean, if one is good...

 

[sean donato]

For heavy brush cutting you don't want a combi, straight shaft bike handles shoulder strap. I've been using the circular saw style cutters. Fairly effective on medium brush up to 2" ish works ok in grasses. The flail types I don't care for, used them at the township as a "do all" solution. Fly apart when you hit something hard and not great on brush. Did well in grass/ weeds.

 

[Franny K]

I'd like to buy it used

I want parts to be available. I'd like them to not be six times more expensive than another brand. I'd like it to say tuned once it's tuned.

This could read to mean you want something with aftermarket clone parts already so nla at the dealer does not matter.

I know nothing about a 193.

It has the cylinder pointing towards the operator and the exhaust does not come out at the bar end. Is it top or rear handle. It might take the sprockets for the 200? For your description and the ability you describe of being able to hire someone for a day with a 5+hp saw I will pick this one to investigate.

Thanks for reading all that. Any advice welcome.

If you are looking for enjoyment in the choice try and get something you can use a mini stihl splined drive or the small spline others use. Anti vibe varies.

 

[fre1102]

I'd go with the 034. I doubt it's the 'Super' version but that would be even better. It's a little heavy for a bunch of one inch cuts though, IMO,

A Stihl 261C would be a great saw for what you are doing.

Sharp chains make all the difference.

I enjoy very much my two 241C's.

One has semi chisel for low and dirty cuts (low enough for a mower to clear) and the other is kept as sharp as possible using full chisel chain.

This is useful. Thank you!

 

[Pioneer]

Husqvarna 55. Magnesium case, super easy to work on, lots of cheap used OEM and new aftermarket parts available. I recommend these saws to anyone that wants to get into working on saws because they are so simple and straightforward. It doesn't hurt that they are reliable and have decent power as well.

 

[coffeebrk]

A LOT of Husky 440, 445, 450, 455 saws. I don't know anything specific about Huskys except some guys like them. I looked for 347xps because someone mentioned them in another thread but I didn't see any.

I have all of those Husky's along with the 545 and 534xp and 550xp mk2.
Go take a look at them, they're all great saws. They start easy, comfy AV. I agree with Sean's observations on the older Stihl saws you mentioned.
Stay away from MS250. Hard to pull, floods easily. I have Stihl saws too. MS251, MS193T, MS261. The MS193T & MS261 start easy and run great.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

Why cheap out and buy someone else's problem? An Echo CS-400 fits your described need perfectly. $369 with an 18" bar and a 5 year warranty.

 

[dandan111]

Echo 400 or the Timberwolf seem to be in high regards. A newer saw will be easier to get parts for. I’d talk to a dealer. You might get their blessing on a used one and have have support.

 

[babaoriley]

What you need is not a “homeowner” saw, so get a 044, that saw is everything you need to clear your farm all by yourself. Then sell it after if money is a problem, you might even make a little profit off it!