Depends on the size of wood too. I wouldn't be surprised at all if the 460 beat or kept up with a 660 in wood up to 28", the 660 just because its bigger doesn't mean it'll cut faster, now put both of them in some 32" or bigger wood and the story will change. My ported 371 will beat my ported 395 in wood up to 24" very easily, but hang a 36" bar on both, burry the bars, and you'll see a different story. The big saw is made for big wood.
I just opened up the stock outlet to probably 3/4", then cut the entire front off the baffle cage and put a dual port cover on it. Gains alot of throttle response from modding the muffler. I would do it.
A 460 against a 660 both stock? Wow, you should be toasting a 460. Maybe the rings are giving out on you. Whats your compression?
compression? 660? 460? Toasting? rings are giving out? muffler mod?
folks that have no clue(like you) should refrain from posting.
I've got a 28" and a seven pin sprocket on mine it's more balanced for me this way but do plan on having a 32" on hand just in case.Defiantly run a 7 tooth if you have a 36 on it. I ran a 30 inch with a 8 tooth and i could tell i was leaveing some on the table. Muffler modd if you can tune it great if not leave it alone. Big bore cylinders aren't fun. You have to work on them to get a good running saw. If you need a cylinder id look for a old mahle those run well if not the newer sthil dose good The place where this saw shines is in big wood when you have the 36 buried in a log
You're not being nice everyone here on Arboristsite come on here to help each other out with problem solving and helpful things to get the best performance from their saws. Just saying. We can all claim we know more than the other but in the end we all know that's not true.Wow, necrothread haha.
OK because under your message it says nothing but garbage. Lol my mustacheLol, all i was saying is that this thread hasnt been posted in for over 7 years.