Best way for poor people to get a pole saw?

[FlyingDutchman]

There's several reasons why I justified the bigger money,

The main one was to prevent myself from buying another junk project truck. (think of all the money I saved!)

The other is that the bigger displacement really helps the brush cutter attachment get through the bigger brush trees with the blade, and the pole saw performance is the best with the bigger motor. Since these are the main attachments I need it for, the dealer suggested I go that route. I used an older HT with the smaller motor and this one performs much better than that one.

Third, got several big jobs to do with it already and needed it fast... Jobs will not quite pay for the saw, but probably about half.

 

[Philbert]

Started out with a manual, consumer grade, telescoping pole saw, which worked good around my yard. Corona brand. Easy to sharpen the blade with a triangular file, which made a real difference. Went up to a more commercial grade Corona telescoping pole saw, still for personal use, which added a couple of feet, and had a heavier duty head casting. Worked good, but harder to store in my garage, or transport in my car. Had that thinner, 'tri-cut', Japanese style blade. which cuts faster, but harder to sharpen (requires a 'feather file', or just periodic replacement).

For our volunteer groups I started with commercial, fiberglass, sectional pole saws (Jameson, Marvin, etc.), which can get you really high, and have interchangeable heads for different tasks. Choose a good, curved blade with a hook on the end to stay in the cut. Can get very wobbly over 18 feet, depending on which poles you choose.

Got some STIHL HT131 powered pole pruners for use with these groups, especially for larger limbs, and for reaching into piles. I like the 3/8" low profile ('Picco') chains on these, but not the 1/4" chains on some later models. Good tools; easy to damage, due to the shafts. If we were not 'STIHL-based' I would take a good look at the ECHO models, with the larger diameter shafts. All of these get heavy, quickly.

Over the past few years I have tried using some of the battery-powered pole saws on disaster response:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/oregon-40-volt-pole-saw.248941/https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/redback-120v-battery-polesaw.336101/
Really surprised at how much work these can do, if you keep the chain sharp (pretty easy up in the air), and let the tool do the work. Much lighter, much quieter, and much less expensive than the top of the line STIHL and ECHO units. Should hold up with reasonable care, and offers the frugal aspect that the OP requested.

Would still like to have the sectional pole saws as a back up, or to free up the powered ones when they get pinched at elevation!

Philbert

 

[67L36Driver]

I borrow the neighbor’s. Combination saw & lopper. Has a pull rope for the lopper. [emoji108]

Larger stuff gets cut with my HT75. [emoji106]

Thanks @Hedgerow !!

 

[jp233]

Yeah, I also have the manual pole saw with a curved saw blade and the lopper + string. that thing was my grandparents and is still going strong. I'll carry that deep in the swamp when scouting deer stands or new locations.

My 30- or 34cc 4-choke trimmer head has a lot of grunt for what it is. No mix. Starts every time, even can use a starter tool in a drill if I happened to need it (it's been a great dust collector).

Anyways, I have an older HL100 hedge trimmer with the older 4mix engine - also has a lot of grunt - wish I could have an extension and a pole saw for that old soldier...

 

[husky455rancher]

The Poulan pro chain saw was a refurb missing the bar adjuster. The Poulan pro pole saw was stalling after it warmed up no spark, a rrefurb from northern. I’ll never buy another refurb.

I bought a husky 440 referb from northern and it never ran right. Rather than do all the crap to send it back I sold it as is. Lesson learned.

 

[toadman]

I've used a 120 volt pole saw and a honda 2000 watt generator before, lasts better on fuel & cuts pretty well. heavy, expensive, but it's what i had

 

[sean donato]

For what it's worth. We use ht101 saws at work for tree trimming line of sight paths for signs and what not. Heavy but they work, not that they get used much. I just have a generic troy built attachment that hooks up to my weed eater for home use. It's a turd, but works for those lower limbs and shooting lanes where I hunt. Didnt give much for it, picked it up at a yard sale new in box with 2 extensions for $30.00 of memory serves.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Yesterday used the pole saw hard for about 3 hours. Such an amazing machine. Using it to clear off an overgrown home to clear the view to sell the house. Even with one extension, its a bit too short for some of it, had to stand on the roof for those. Without the extension, you don't have to bend over to break down the brush. So far my favorite use. Some of the cuts were large dead oak branches that were as big as the bar, sailed through it.

 

[JW51]

My HF “Lynxx” 40v pole saw has seen a lot of use (probably beyond its design limits) and I’ve been nothing but impressed. It could fall apart tomorrow and I wouldn't feel like it owed me anything.

Not fast by any means. Some goofy stuff you have to learn to work around. But it’s light. It cuts anything as long as you’re patient. And I’m usually worn out before the battery wears out.

 

[dboyd351]

Its also safer to cut up fallen trees under tension keeps you at a distance

^^ this is absolutely true!^^

 

[Okie]

My deer stand shooting lane poor people pole saw is a limb saw curved saw blade bolted to 10 ft section of 3/4 inch schedule 40 aluminum conduit and I can easily add another section to the 10 ft section because it is threaded and has a aluminum threaded coupling collar but very rarely have to add any more length..
Using the aluminum rigid conduit allows it to be light weight and easily carried through the brush.

 

[ken morgan]

In 1972 I bought a pole saw that had a curved saw blade on the tip that you pulled to cut...works really well and never runs out of gas

Oh yeah jokers gonna joke.

 

[Okie]

This one will run out of gas if lots of limbs need trimmed.

My deer stand shooting lane poor people pole saw is a limb saw curved saw blade bolted to 10 ft section of 3/4 inch schedule 40 aluminum conduit and I can easily add another section to the 10 ft section because it is threaded and has a aluminum threaded coupling collar but very rarely have to add any more length..
Using the aluminum rigid conduit allows it to be light weight and easily carried through the brush.

 

[Huskybill]

Pawnshop

 

[m21bmr]

As others have mentioned, for those on a budget, I have a consumer style attachment capable powerhead with extension tubes.

Over the years, I have upgraded some of the components. I found some Stihl pole saw units that were damaged and swapped the Stihl cutting attachment to the consumer compatible shaft.

For extra extension shafts, I have repurposed a few of the consumer grade "attachment capable" shafts from old powerheads. Those do not have the push button to lock into place with the coupling, but I haven't had any issues with the shafts slipping once the coupler is tightened down.

I have used roughly 15 feet of extensions at times. Overall investment has been close to nothing since I was recycling "junk" trimmers that were often picked up at the curb.

 

[telecasterfool]

I have the Ryobi "Expand-it" system for the limited occasions when only a power saw on a stick will save time and be safer. I have the 40v battery powered motor, and the 2-stroke motor. Homelite extensions are exactly the same as the original extensions. The chainsaw head works great, if you change the chain to oregon .043 chain and keep it sharp. The system of extensions is nice because I can make it just the right length, and it's not so clumsy. The 40v battery works in other tools as well - I have the 40v 14" chainsaw for quiet tree cutting. It's comparable to a 35ccish saw. Hope this helps somebody.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I mounted a pole saw blade on a 14' aluminum tubing rod. I could not reach twenty feet with it if it was motor driven. For easy jobs a power pole could work well. Two weeks ago I set up scaffolding up thirty feet then went up with my pole saw another twenty for a tree removal. The last twenty feet was a little tougher because of the thick foliage. Finally finished the top twenty feet with a rope saw. Got her down by myself which was a great relief. A neighbor was so emphatic that none of the other trees be damaged or disturbed. I could not verify tree was safe to climb because of damage to the trunk. The tree was leaning or house and deck but a powered pole saw might have been faster if I could reach high with it. Thanks

 

[9050LX]

I forgot to mention with the rigid Aluminum electrical conduit you can select sizes that will slip fit and telescope. Can easily reach 20 ft plus your reach height and it stay light weight. I have a manual wooden pole type but seldom use it due to the more user friendly homemade aluminum pole type.
My long curved blade cuts on the pull stoke and cuts fast.
You can also rig a handheld folding saw onto the pole.

Chain link fence top lateral pipe (1 1/4?) fits over a manual polesaw shaft.A drill and a wing nut and bolt and you can reach way up.

 

[dboyd351]

Chain link fence top lateral pipe (1 1/4?) fits over a manual polesaw shaft.A drill and a wing nut and bolt and you can reach way up.

Isn't that pretty heavy?

 

[Philbert]

Pretty soon we will just be using drones for high branches.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/anyone-using-drones-to-set-a-throw-line.266170/
Philbert