Best way to manually split fire wood

[cutter44752]

A maul and a couple of wedges is how I've done it for 30+ years. Hit it with the maul, if it doesn't split, put a wedge in the indentation and give it a few taps. Hit it with the backside of the maul.

In the beginning, until you get used to hitting a wedge with the maul, put a piece of radiator hose over the lower portion of the maul handle to keep from chewing up the handle when you miss. Eventually, you'll get to the point where you never miss.

And buy a quality maul and wedges too.

You can buy those things too they're called "Handle Savers" http://www.awesometools.com/handlesaver.asp you just boil them for a couple minutes and put some Vaseline on the inside and slide them on. They'll still twist if you really whack the handle but you can just rotate them back into place (they do change the equilibrium of the tool though).

 

[cutter44752]

Amen to that! I usually wear my chaps for that purpose but today I didn't. I now have a shin half skinned from a chunk. I shopped for shin gaurds at a big box. Couldn't find any except ones for kids.

Harry K

Any sporting goods should have shin guards, go to "Play It Again Sam" if they have them in your area for some cheap ones. They come into different lengths, too (you'll probably want ones that *don't* have the ankle spur protectors because they won't fit in your boots properly)

 

[cutter44752]

Everything others here said plus I would add spend the couple extra dollars for a fiberglass vs. wood handle (lasts longer and is lighter). Also get star or grenade wedges rather than straight pie-shaped ones, which can twist more.

Also get a good chopping block, nice and flat at a comfortable height and hardwood (hardest you can get). Often people use the stump of a tree they're working on, since that's the widest part and you can't really use the bottom section for firewood easily.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Saw this video on an old thread, thanks for the video Dan.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCfK1WVo9LQ

That guy has lousy technique. He's working way too hard. Proves the tire trick works well, though.



Now, where can I get a tire to fit my 30-40" rounds?

 

[BaldSawRunner]

That guy has lousy technique. He's working way too hard. Proves the tire trick works well, though.



Now, where can I get a tire to fit my 30-40" rounds?

One of those big earth moving dump truck tires should suffice BRM:hmm3grin2orange: They can usually be found around big excavation projects like new highway construction.:monkey: Just be sure you load it with the grapple. Those things look heavy

 

[KRS]

I just split a bunch of mesquite tonight (4"-12") with my new maul.

I grew up using a wedge and sledge.... the maul was a first for me.... that's the way to go !

KRS

 

[Labman]

You need the entire kit to split manually.

A good ax

A good 6-8 lb maul

At least two metal wedges.

10-12 lb sledge hammer to hit the wedges with.

As others pointed out, learn to read the wood. On a big round I start with the wedge(s) to halve it picking out a good clear path (no knots to go through around.

Usually then, the maul will split blocks the size I want with one or two swings.

I find that splitting "upside down", i.e. setting the block to be split with what was the top, down works easiest. Then eyeball to 'graze' any knot (don't try to split through one). I can usually wind up on a knotty piece with a 'graze" down each side of a big knot and have it small enough to fit the stove, if not, it goes on the "to be sawn apart pile"

Get 'handle protectors' from the same place you get your other splittign supplies. They are rubber donuts that slip over the handle down near the head. Even with them, figure you will replace a handle now and then. Without them, you will replace a handle almost every year.

Harry K

You can split almost anything by hand. I have done a lot with an ax, but mostly start with my maul. How far I can go with it depends on the quality of what I am splitting. If something doesn't yield to the maul, I move up to the wedge and sledge. After a while, you mostly know what it will take.

To split a crotch or knot, split each part. Turn the knot down, but facing you so when you split the trunk, you are splitting each limb too.

Cute story. Years ago a storm blew down a huge pig nut tree. I attacked it with my 12'' Poulan XXV and my maul. I busted the handle of the maul and bought a fiberglass replacement. My son saw it and said ''Daddy, it is plastic.'' So I explained to him I had carefully bought a plastic one because it was so tough. Later I was having at a big crotch. My son watched for a while and finally asked ''Is that a plastic log?''.

I have matured to where I often add crotches to the brush fire.

 

[NDtreehugger]

Get busy is the best way.
For ash I use an Axe, elm a maul and wedge plus chainsaw to get the wedge out of the elm that wont split, oak maul 8 pounder

 

[mechanickeven]

my two cents

I am 30 years old and have been swinging an 8lbs maul since i was 10. all me or my father have used is the 8lbs maul, or the 16lbs wedge maul. never seen these wedges, but am curious. i have always been able to use the tried and true mauls, but for the huge stuff i talk the uncle into bringing the log splitter with a case of michelobe to bribe him. lol

 

[Dok]

I have matured to where I often add crotches to the brush fire.

Forty and lack of time learned me.
Dok

 

[TKO-KID]

I Found the best way to split it today!

 

[diesel&coffee]

anyone try this

take the helko Vario 2000 (2300G Heavy Splitting Axe), with the 36" curved handle and CHANGE out the head (5 lbs) - with the 1500G Light Splitting Axe - head (3.3 lbs) - which has a 30" straight handle... I know the heads are diff shape..

Just wondering.. I am new to this but after reading that some, like me, being 6 ' 2" etc... and that some don't like "heavier" heads etc... just wondering if this setup would work...

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11718

 

[strongback]

I think the short answer for a city boy who has been deprived of the benefits of firewood processing is going to be - PRACTICE.

Many of us have been splitting and hauling firewood since we were old enough to swing a hatchet. This has given us years to develop the specific strength and technique that is necessary to process significant amounts of firewood by hand. Most notably grip strength and the body mechanics to get sufficient head speed for splitting with a maul. You can only do it by doing it.

I don't know about the others but as a beginner (8 y/o or so) I started with a sledge and wedge (NOT axe or maul and wedge) until I developed the accuracy and strength to split with a maul. I don't think it's such a bad idea for an older novice to take the same route. Your progression should be fairly quick but there is a lot to be learned by splitting with wedges that will provide a firm foundation for your switch to a maul later.

As has been said; Wear your safety equipment! Your going to bruise a finger once in a while - it's practically unavoidable - a small measure of protection will keep you from losing eyes with the same rate of regularity.

PS- Oh yeah, I use a Fiskars "Super Splitter" too.

 

[Labman]

Practice? I have noticed hitting the same place twice speeds the job.

 

[MJR]

How close is that stove to the back wall?

 

[ouachita]

find the biggest crack you can and start a straight line across the log. if it takes more than 15 hits to bust it in half set it aside and grab another. you might find it easier to split the hard ones after more practice. and dont worry you could could fill a dump truck with the wood i have give up on. some aint worth it.

 

[kyle1!]

15 hits!!!! I'm ready to give up after 5. I have been splitting elm and hackberry recently. The cold temps make it split so much easier unless I miss and hit the center....twanggg.

Brian

 

[toddstreeservic]

I usually only make it to 6 or 7 before reaching for the saw.

 

[ouachita]

dont do much elm or hackberry in arkansas. mostly red or white oak 18-30+ inches. it can take 15 hits just to cross it. usually know in a few hits if itll bust or go on the bon fire. tried elm once. i suggest cut it small enough to go in the stove whole.

 

[scotiadallas]

Fiskars?

I can't believe you guys have not heard of this company:

http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html

I finally forked up the $$ last year and I CAN'T BELIEVE THE DIFFERENCE...

I own "large" splitting axe and although it's tiny (I though they sent the wrong axe when it arrived) it goes through wood like butter. HUGE WOOD. I use it every day to feed my boiler and every day is amazes me.

Really.