Best way to sharpen for your 200t

[ROPECLIMBER]

I use 3/8 picco Stihl no anti kickers, it has a factory bite of .026", and a cutter angle of 30 deg.and I try to keep the rakers at this .026" to keep it from grabbing to much, and usually file as needed, I have gotten good at eye balling the rakers and know if I hit a nail ot dirt in a hollow,or dirty bark after a storm,and have to take 10 strokes off the cutter I need to take about 3 strokes off the rakers, the rakers allow the cutter to make progressive contact with the wood, so if you dont bring them down to .025" or more (below the cutting edge)you can have a razor edge and still throw powder. like Larry toe 200 is not used on the ground so it usually holds an edge a while, I will throw a new chain on for a removal and not have to touch it up for a while of just trimming. the chin is 63 RM 50 , I went with the RM fast chain on it as I hate filing the double rakers.
Paul

 

[imagineero]

How hard is it really to maintain the proper raker profile with a flat file, without your DAF gadget???

Well, no harder than, say, filing a little metal triangle 3/16" wide to an angle of between 6*-6.5* by eye, using an imaginary line between the two teeth as a reference point to take the angle off ;-)

Honestly, I;ve never met anyone who could do that by eye. You'd be lucky to get within 2* of being right, which is leaving a lot of cutting ability behind. I've found even the best guides only take the angle down to somewhere between 3*~4*. Some guys can get to around 4.5* by eye, or using a depth gauge. I'm constantly shocked at just how low 6.5* really is, especially towards the end of the tooth. You look at it, and think "man, that's way too much. Thats going to be awful!" But it turns out being perfect.

2* is awful. You're only throwing dust there. 3* you're cutting. 4* is where a lot of guys who think they know how to file rakers end up at, and it's not bad. You get chips. 6.5* is nirvana. You throw big chips, the saw never grabs, it self feeds. The chain stays sharp a long time. 8* is awful again. That's way too much.

If you can accurately and consistently judge 1* by eye, then you can save yourself $50. Actually, I'll shout you a beer

Shaun

 

[Pelorus]

I can accurately and consistently judge when I'm unhappy with how a chain is cutting, and then hand file it by eye to where I'm happy :rolleyes2: But I do think your DAF angles and stuff are interesting and have merit.

 

[Naked Arborist]

You guys do realize your on the way to a pissing match. Who cares what method is used. The bottom line is "what works for you". That fact that we get more than a-few people to realize how important the bi bi bi "bite is" will be the most important message conveyed here. Yes my post was wordy so people "they" get it!

Who really cares if you use the morning rising sun method of "finding the angles." Whateva works now git back in the cage.

 

[Naked Arborist]

grinder types

What grinder do you guys use to grind your full chisel low profile chain?

I use a Belsaw-Foley 308 and 399.

 

[B_Turner]

I say 25 to 35 degrees doesn't make tons of difference if the chain is sharp except really hard wood.

IMO 3/8 lp works very well on a small limbing saw. And although I try to stay away from the safety stuff, it limbs okay and I don't throw it away when it comes on a saw. I buy all new chain by the reel, but most saws come with a loop and 3/8 lp safety doesn't work that bad except for boring. ( Course I prefer non safety and that is all I buy)

And .325 nk is fine on a saw with a little more snot than a 201. And no body makes a 3/8 lp floating rim except stihl so that can affect a choice.

I know I'll ruffle some feathers, but in truth most folks I know run chains that aren't as sharp as they think. I am talking full time pros. I do mean most....

But my first thought to the OP is are you using an 1/8 inch wheel on your 510 for 3/8 lp? Should be. I have a 510 that almost always has a 1/8 wheel on it for 1/4, .325 and 3/8 lp.

In terms of performance, for me small chains cut just as well as hand filed using the 510 (including 3/8 lp). On full sized 3/8, filing for me gets them a touch faster cutting.

But I solved that problem years ago and run square ground on all my saw bigger than 50cc. Changed my world and no way I could ever put up with 3/8 round except in really dirty wood when I reluctantly get out the 3/8 semi chisel.

Best thing would be to post pics of a ground chain, that will tell us the story.

 

[Pelorus]

You guys do realize your on the way to a pissing match. Who cares what method is used. The bottom line is "what works for you". That fact that we get more than a-few people to realize how important the bi bi bi "bite is" will be the most important message conveyed here. Yes my post was wordy so people "they" get it!

Who really cares if you use the morning rising sun method of "finding the angles." Whateva works now git back in the cage.

It's a Pepsi challenge, not a pissing match. Anyway, as long as Shaun will admit that he is wrong, it's all good.
Esoteric sharpening techniques are better suited for hotsaws in competitions. I rest my case...finally.

 

[Naked Arborist]

Holy#### Batman an arrested case and the Pope retired, word.

"All big chips fly from those who sharpen often"

You limb walkers are all alike.