Good point, I did that the other day with a Husqvarna 550 XP and that flooded it. Next day it ran fine when starting cold. Trying to start and engine with the choke on that was just shut down will usually flood it immediately.
Better Saw to Replace Echo CS590?
- Thread starter Paul Bunions
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I think it would have idled if I had left it alone.
L seems a bit rich, and high a bit lean. Get it to idle, don't touch the throttle and tune the L side according to the manual. I'd definitely give it 3/4 on the H, just to be safe.
Depending on the carb, you'll have trouble tuning the H jet when your L is way off.
Starting to tear up my starting hand. Will get back to it later.
What aftermarket carb did you put on it? I've had success with a Proline carb on an 034, every single other Chinese aftermarket carb I've tried has been a failure.
I do like my electric stuff, and there's definitely a place for it. My Kobalt 80v will cut anything any other 18" saw will cut, just at ~2/3rds the speed. Bar fully buried in oak, no problem. Just hit the button and go.
I do like my electric stuff, and there's definitely a place for it. My Kobalt 80v will cut anything any other 18" saw will cut, just at ~2/3rds the speed. Bar fully buried in oak, no problem. Just hit the button and go.
I am wondering if you have a bad vent for your gas tank. Try cracking open the gas cap to relieve gas pressure before trying to start it.
Gas should not spew out when you pull the fuel line. That may be what is causing it to flood.
Gas should not spew out when you pull the fuel line. That may be what is causing it to flood.
I run exclusively echo and jonsered. Easiest saws to deal with. There was a Poulan made saw labeled by jonsered though it may have been the 40, not sure. My guess is whatever saw you get you’ll have trouble. Maybe keep fresh, no ethanol gas in them. Bad gas is often the common denominator when there’s trouble with multiple saws.
Carb settings should be close to 1 turn out on each. Did you happen to check the spark arresting screen. When plugged it can act sort of like it’s flooded. If you replaced the carb and cleaned/ rebuilt it. I’d start looking around at other things like
- air leak, common areas crank seals, intake boot/manifold, impulse line.
-weak or intermittent spark
- clogged muffler screen.
- low compression due to scores piston/cylinder. Also leaking decompression can cause erratic running
I would pull the muffler first before attempting any more repairs
This way you know if it’s worth continuing. I’m not sure if those 590s also have the catalytic converter. If so it’s possible that it could be plugged. Try running it without the muffler
- air leak, common areas crank seals, intake boot/manifold, impulse line.
-weak or intermittent spark
- clogged muffler screen.
- low compression due to scores piston/cylinder. Also leaking decompression can cause erratic running
I would pull the muffler first before attempting any more repairs
This way you know if it’s worth continuing. I’m not sure if those 590s also have the catalytic converter. If so it’s possible that it could be plugged. Try running it without the muffler
I'm back. Haven't gotten back to work yet.
No idea what kind of Chinese carb I have. The other two are Walbros.
As for the vent, my understanding is that they only let gas in, not out, so I don't think it's the problem. Perhaps this is wrong.
I have not looked at the screen. It should be okay. I don't think it explains why the saw suddenly went from working to doing nothing while being used very little.
I had no idea there was such a thing as a catalytic converter on a chainsaw. This thing has a head and a muffler. I haven't seen anything else in there.
I am going to try pulling only twice with the choke on and then disengaging the choke whether the saw barks or not. I have been waiting for the saw to make a starting noise, but these things flood so easily, I think it's a mistake. Also wondering if I even need the choke, since it's maybe 85 here. It already started twice recently, so there has to be something wrong with the carb adjustment or my procedure.
I have a new OEM carb on the way for the Jonsered. I don't know if I want to keep it, though. It's 10 times as hard to work on as the Echo, and there is no bar oil adjustment, so oil goes all over. It acts like it has an air leak, but taking it apart to look it over is a really bad experience. I could change an Echo carb in three minutes if I really had to.
I bought it because it was literally the only saw I could find after Hurricane Irma. I can use it right now, but anyone who comes near me while it idles is in a lot of danger.
I can get a couple more 5-Ah batteries for the Makita for around $155, so I would have 6 to work with. Maybe I should do that, forget the Jonsered, and focus on fixing the Echo for bigger jobs.
There is a Stihl dealer and repair place near me. I have not used them because they do Stihls, not Echos. Maybe it's worth it to buy a 60cc Stihl just to have a relationship with these people so I don't have to drive myself crazy trying to fix saws. I said there were no good mechanics near me, but I left these people out because of their Stihl business. Maybe they are not idiots.
No idea what kind of Chinese carb I have. The other two are Walbros.
As for the vent, my understanding is that they only let gas in, not out, so I don't think it's the problem. Perhaps this is wrong.
I have not looked at the screen. It should be okay. I don't think it explains why the saw suddenly went from working to doing nothing while being used very little.
I had no idea there was such a thing as a catalytic converter on a chainsaw. This thing has a head and a muffler. I haven't seen anything else in there.
I am going to try pulling only twice with the choke on and then disengaging the choke whether the saw barks or not. I have been waiting for the saw to make a starting noise, but these things flood so easily, I think it's a mistake. Also wondering if I even need the choke, since it's maybe 85 here. It already started twice recently, so there has to be something wrong with the carb adjustment or my procedure.
I have a new OEM carb on the way for the Jonsered. I don't know if I want to keep it, though. It's 10 times as hard to work on as the Echo, and there is no bar oil adjustment, so oil goes all over. It acts like it has an air leak, but taking it apart to look it over is a really bad experience. I could change an Echo carb in three minutes if I really had to.
I bought it because it was literally the only saw I could find after Hurricane Irma. I can use it right now, but anyone who comes near me while it idles is in a lot of danger.
I can get a couple more 5-Ah batteries for the Makita for around $155, so I would have 6 to work with. Maybe I should do that, forget the Jonsered, and focus on fixing the Echo for bigger jobs.
There is a Stihl dealer and repair place near me. I have not used them because they do Stihls, not Echos. Maybe it's worth it to buy a 60cc Stihl just to have a relationship with these people so I don't have to drive myself crazy trying to fix saws. I said there were no good mechanics near me, but I left these people out because of their Stihl business. Maybe they are not idiots.
Let me go out into left field.
I'm starting to think I should have two big (for my purposes) gas saws, because I don't want to get stuck in another situation where I am fighting with repair people and trying to fix things while I have nothing to use.
Locally, I can get a Stihl (computerized) MS400, an MS362, or a Husky 460 right now. The Husky is way cheaper, but mainly I want to know which one is going to be the least pain in the ass. I would rather drop a grand and not suffer than drop $640 and have a saw only a brain surgeon can work on. Ease of getting parts also matters.
My Jonsered is actually a Husky. Says so right on it. No fun at all to open up. I don't know what the bigger ones are like.
My 20" bar has always been a little short for my most annoying jobs, so I'm thinking 24". I am tired of having to cut from both sides of downed trees.
I'm starting to think I should have two big (for my purposes) gas saws, because I don't want to get stuck in another situation where I am fighting with repair people and trying to fix things while I have nothing to use.
Locally, I can get a Stihl (computerized) MS400, an MS362, or a Husky 460 right now. The Husky is way cheaper, but mainly I want to know which one is going to be the least pain in the ass. I would rather drop a grand and not suffer than drop $640 and have a saw only a brain surgeon can work on. Ease of getting parts also matters.
My Jonsered is actually a Husky. Says so right on it. No fun at all to open up. I don't know what the bigger ones are like.
My 20" bar has always been a little short for my most annoying jobs, so I'm thinking 24". I am tired of having to cut from both sides of downed trees.
JRenna
ArboristSite Operative
I’m not agains’t purchasing another saw by any means, but unless you’ve got some scoring or something serious, it shouldn’t take much to get the 590 back up and running. It takes about 2 minutes to remove the muffler and check. I’m also not a fan of Chinese carbs. I’d reinstall the original and work from there.
I know it's confusing, but right now it has a Walbro on it.
JRenna
ArboristSite Operative
Ok sorry
JRenna
ArboristSite Operative
Can you upload a video of it idling? And perhaps it bogging when you pull the trigger?
All depends on whether it will start! I don't know if this site will let me upload video.
Just gave it maybe 10 yanks. Nothing. Screw this. No one around here can fix it, and it may take me a month to get it going.
I'm going to get two more batteries for the Makita and try to find a Stihl I like. Life is too short for this.
I'm going to get two more batteries for the Makita and try to find a Stihl I like. Life is too short for this.
Considering what you said you do most of your work with id step down to a 50cc saw and hit a box store. I've not used the Echo but from all I've read on forums your experience is not typical for that saw. Sometimes lemons happen even in the best of products
I'll give you $50 and pay shipping for that saw. Send it to me
I have to have two sizes. Something like the Makita for most work, plus something at least as big as the Echo for the rest. The Echo has been adequate but not great for bucking downed oaks.
I think of the Husky 460 as a generally-reliable saw. It's cheaper (with a less-desirable P/W ratio) because it is a Farm/Ranch clamshell saw...and, those Stihls you mention are pro mag-case saws.
I continue to think you will be better served by a Mtronic or Autotune saw. Stihl MS 362CM, 400 or Husky 555, 562XP.
Roy
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