Black paint on portys

[The Lawn Shark]

Its been talked about before but could'nt find it........Anyways the black paint on my porty where the rope makes contact has softened and causes the rope to grab....it has softened due to heat from the rope friction....
Anyways, I want to remove the paint where the rope makes contact on my porty.....Should I use paint remover/stripper, brake fluid, sand paper...????

Has anybody powder coated one....think it would work???

 

[randyg]

Stay away from the powder coat. Two home-made rope brakes (one straps on tree bollard style/one fits in 2" receiver) had powder coated and wish I hadn't. The heat, softened/melted some of coating and melted some of 3/4 bull rope. Not positive but pretty sure I'd lowered larger peices before the coating with no heat issues to rope. My porty is alum. so not issue, but the good old question of how to keep rust away from that friction bearing steel surface while not in use remains mystery to me. Can't use oil or wax as would be bad for rope. Any ideas out there?

 

[RAG66]

I'm sure it may seem wierd to think this way, but all the bollards on the waterfront are usualy not painted on the working surface. If I was you I'd not powder coat. Just keep it clean bare steel, sure there might be a little surface rust now and again but a scotch brite pad will work it off quickly. My porty is cad plated and now some is wearing off so I just make sure it don't get too wet for too long. The porty gives so much friction anyway, it's better off being smooth or "polished".

 

[EdenT]

The black paint is powder coating....

Port-a-wraps are generally sold as aluminium, nickel plated steel and powder coated steel.

From Wiki

Powder coating is a type of coating that is applied as a free-flowing, dry powder. The main difference between a conventional liquid paint and a powder coating is that the powder coating does not require a solvent to keep the binder and filler parts in a liquid suspension form. The coating is typically applied electrostatically and is then cured under heat to allow it to flow and form a "skin."

Also from Wiki

Curing

When a thermoset powder is exposed to elevated temperature, it begins to melt, flows out, and then chemically reacts to form a higher molecular weight polymer in a network-like structure. This cure process, called crosslinking, requires a certain degree of temperature for a certain length of time in order to reach full cure and establish the full film properties for which the material was designed. Normally the powders cure at 200°C (390°F) in 10 minutes.

Yes I can imagine the porty barrel could get to 390°F pretty easily under a running load.So, next time I buy a port-a-wrap it's going to be nickel coated steel. (I'm one of those anti-aluminum freaks).

 

[ROOTSXROCKS]

Try Parkerizing aka Gun bluing http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing

 

[tree MDS]

Its been talked about before but could'nt find it........Anyways the black paint on my porty where the rope makes contact has softened and causes the rope to grab....it has softened due to heat from the rope friction....
Anyways, I want to remove the paint where the rope makes contact on my porty.....Should I use paint remover/stripper, brake fluid, sand paper...????

Has anybody powder coated one....think it would work???

Rig bigger pieces. that usually cleans em up nice.

 

[Mikecutstrees]

Mines bare metal and even that took a while to wear in. It was a little textured but once that wore off it runs much smoother. I'd just use it and it will wear away where needed..... Mike

 

[The Lawn Shark]

Mines bare metal and even that took a while to wear in. It was a little textured but once that wore off it runs much smoother. I'd just use it and it will wear away where needed..... Mike

Yeah I was leaning toward just letting it alone and wear off on its own