Bolt recommendation

[Whitespider]

The photos may be deceiving but it appears the bolt is bent a tiny bit already. I'm guessing the bolt takes some of the force until the ram contacts the back of the wedge so the bolt is flexing slightly every cycle. Can you attach a shim to the end of the ram to be sure it is doing all the pushing force?

Yeah, it does look bent... don't it??
I'm not so sure a shim on the end of the cylinder rod would alleviate all the stress to the bolt. When the wedge is pushed into the wood it won't have equal force on both sides, causing the ears to "push" on one side of the bolt, and "pull" on the other. Then the next log may force it the opposite way. Repetitive and opposite deformation...
*

 

[Mike Mulback]

I also have a Speeco and have replaced my bolt 3 times. It's a pretty easy 2 minute fix. Do you wonder why they don't put a Grade 8 in it 1st? Do you really think it's to save a few dollars or maybe it is to save from a more expensive breaking point. I like to think of it as a shear pin on a snow blower or bush hog. Much cheaper an easier to fix a bolt than to fix a bent blade, auger or cylinder.
Treat yourself and put a new bolt in it every year on your Birthday.
I like to make an easy to fix weak point on most stuff I build.
Work smarter not harder.

Tell ya what I have a speedco 28 here I dont see how you are breaking bolts dam,How about a 5/8"? shoot me ware I should send one for giggles

 

[A.S.Woodchucker]

We stuck a piece of steel between the end of cly and the wedge and it has worked without breaking any bolts, this was on an older speeco.

 

[H-Ranch]

I'm not so sure a shim on the end of the cylinder rod would alleviate all the stress to the bolt. When the wedge is pushed into the wood it won't have equal force on both sides, causing the ears to "push" on one side of the bolt, and "pull" on the other. Then the next log may force it the opposite way. Repetitive and opposite deformation...
*

The push plate looks to be constrained in the channel but may allow for some movement to do as you say Spidey. To make matters worse the ram pushes on a line contact because the back of the wedge is also V-shaped.

We stuck a piece of steel between the end of cly and the wedge and it has worked without breaking any bolts, this was on an older speeco.

That's what I had in mind too.

 

[Erik B]

The photos may be deceiving but it appears the bolt is bent a tiny bit already. I'm guessing the bolt takes some of the force until the ram contacts the back of the wedge so the bolt is flexing slightly every cycle. Can you attach a shim to the end of the ram to be sure it is doing all the pushing force?

If there is any space it isn't much. I will check it the next time I am splitting. I should be able to see if there is any slop with the wedge. Thanks for the suggestion.
after looking at the second picture, it almost looks like there is a flat surface that the cly is pushing on.

 

[Erik B]

We stuck a piece of steel between the end of cly and the wedge and it has worked without breaking any bolts, this was on an older speeco.

My Speeco is an older one as well. I am guessing it is between 15-20 years old. The manual calls for a 3inch by half inch grade 5 bolt.

 

[bert the turtle]

What is the country of origin on the bolts? It is a lot easier for a Chinese factory to put 6 lines on a bolt head than it is to tell if they are really meeting the proper specs.

That said, I tend to agree with the folks who would rather break a bolt every few years than break something important

 

[cantoo]

There is a 1/16 or less space there and repeated moving back and forth will bend it, takes a long long time to actually break. I did break one but it was because I made up a stroke limiter that actually hit the wedge and not the bolt so after a short while it bent and broke the bolt.

Eric, how old are ya? At 1 every 5 years I don't figure I'm gonna replace that many. My birthday is Thursday, 3 more bolts are likely gonna do me. I don't even buy milk by the gallon anymore.

 

[Erik B]

There is a 1/16 or less space there and repeated moving back and forth will bend it, takes a long long time to actually break. I did break one but it was because I made up a stroke limiter that actually hit the wedge and not the bolt so after a short while it bent and broke the bolt.

Eric, how old are ya? At 1 every 5 years I don't figure I'm gonna replace that many. My birthday is Thursday, 3 more bolts are likely gonna do me. I don't even buy milk by the gallon anymore.

68 this year. BTW Happy Birthday to you.

 

[GVS]

As stated,that bolt should only see shear force on wedge retraction.Nothing on extension.All the threads should be outside on the wedge plate opposite the bolt head.In other words the bolt should have much more shank than threads.If you can't tighten the nut down all the way to the wedge plate,put a washer under the nut.
If the wedge plate holes are opened up or egg shaped ,that will allow the bolt to move and wear and eventually shear.

 

[blades]

First off you want the shank to extend all the way across/ through the 2 plates and the ram. Some washers to adjust a bit and a right angle grinder with a cut off wheel will take care of the extra length or fit it through mark it where there is to much thread and hacksaw it off- not difficult. If the through holes are waddled out you could hand drill it out to say 5/8" or as suggested 3/4" using a 1/2" chuck hand drill with a Silver and Deming bit ( these are bits with turned down to 1/2" shanks ( don't know if they are available in a 3/8" version)
Note that the od of the threaded portion is already smaller than the shank and therefore you are already 50% set up for a failure. You have a working load on the threaded portion- always a bad idea.

 

[sledge&wedge]

Yeah, it does look bent... don't it??
I'm not so sure a shim on the end of the cylinder rod would alleviate all the stress to the bolt. When the wedge is pushed into the wood it won't have equal force on both sides, causing the ears to "push" on one side of the bolt, and "pull" on the other. Then the next log may force it the opposite way. Repetitive and opposite deformation...
*

aka Cyclic Fatigue. And you're absolutely right, any wiggle at all, whether from unequal force on both sides or from the holes being wallowed out, and you're asking for some breakage.

 

[Woodomaker]

I have broken about 3 bolts on my speeco splitter over the years. It is the one holding the wedge to the ram. Size is half inch by 3 inches. I have been replacing it with a grade 8 bolt and it lasts for maybe 5 years. It is real easy to replace but I was wondering what others are using for that part. Is there something better than a grade 8 bolt?
Erik B

Go to a John Deere or Catapiller site and get one of their bolts......grade 12 or higher

 

[lindnova]

I replaced my bolt a few years ago when new because of all the play in it - it was loose brand new. If I remember correctly it was a 3/8", but I replaced with 1/2 grade 8 that I think fit in the hole. I may have run a drill though it can't remember. It has held up fine no problems. I used a nylon lock nut on it - it only needs to be tight enough, not torqued down much.

I agree about the grade 5 flexing more than an 8 in this application. I would rather have some flex than a pop and bolt heads flying off.

 

[ray benson]

http://tinelok.com/grade-5-vs-grade-8-fasteners/

Was told by steel mill mechanics that grade 5 was the way to go til I read the article.

 

[GVS]

If I have both a grade 5 and a grade 8 of the same size(D X L) and shank length is going to be correct,I'll go with grade 8 every time.Even if a grade 3 would suffice.
I do use anti-sieze on just about every stud or bolt/nut combination.

 

[burnses]

Kevin j, you are right. It looks like the end of the rod is contacting the back of the wedge. I have tried looking for a bolt that has a smaller amount of thread on it so the threaded part is not being stressed but I cant find one. I do not have the tools to cut a hardened bolt down to size. A hardened draw pin with a cotter key would be the best way to go. Pics are attached of what I have now.View attachment 428283 View attachment 428283 View attachment 428284

use whatever grade ya want 5 or 8 or even a aircraft an bolt but......the important thing is to have the shoulder (unthreaded portion of bolt) go through both plates on each side of the anvil. So you might need a really long bolt and cut down the threaded part and use a couple washers so the shoulder comes through the other side and then put the nut on.....good luck

 

[tla100]

If I have both a grade 5 and a grade 8 of the same size(D X L) and shank length is going to be correct,I'll go with grade 8 every time.Even if a grade 3 would suffice.
I do use anti-sieze on just about every stud or bolt/nut combination.

I do like to use antiseize also. Even if you never have to take a bolt off again, cheap insurance. Pulled my mower blades off the other day, they were tight but could loosen by hand after a 1/4 turn....

 

[GVS]

I do like to use antiseize also. Even if you never have to take a bolt off again, cheap insurance. Pulled my mower blades off the other day, they were tight but could loosen by hand after a 1/4 turn....

Pretty much the same with me.If it comes apart,it's going back together with anti-sieze.I really don't care to see a guy reach for the "flame wrench" before the box or open end wrench or socket/ratchet.

 

[olyman]

Pretty much the same with me.If it comes apart,it's going back together with anti-sieze.I really don't care to see a guy reach for the "flame wrench" before the box or open end wrench or socket/ratchet.

SOMETIMES..a necessary evil..........