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Bottom dwelling saws
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I happen to like the fender telecaster. So I liked his post.
hwrdpromac7900
ArboristSite Operative
Novice or occasional users may not know what to look for when buying a used saw. They see Stihl etc. and think it has to be a good saw, not knowing it could be a train wreck.
Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
Yes, that's a battery vs. gas thing, at least for me when I liked the comment on the 40V Ryobi.
The like is not for the Ryobi per se, but for the notion that IMHO for this type of occasional homeowner usage modern battery powered saws are the better choice. I'm a petrol head myself (own around 150 petrol chainsaws or so), but I do also have a 2x18V Makita (also made in China, me thinks) and can't say a bad word about it. It's always ready, always works and every time I pick it up it amazes me how much I can cut on a single charge. I have loads of other equipment on the same battery system, so plenty of batteries sitting around, but I have never yet had to grab two extra batteries after running the ones on the chainsaw dry. It does happen (running dry) but always at a point where I'm also "done" well enough and might as well attend to other stuff first while recharching. Charge them after use and before storage, and you're ready to go next time.
We all know the issues with non-starting homeowner gasoline saws and it is always "unexpected" exactly at the moment the owner wants/needs them to work (after a year of not using or so). Much more maintenance required and those saws are generally not getting that.
Mind you, I also own plenty brush cutters / trimmers, but I do also grab a scythe when it's the right tool for the job. Petrol power is not religion.
klaus von herten
ArboristSite Member
I’m a lurker here. Great discussion gents, very informative for us casual homeowners.
I’ve got a late 1990s Poulan Wild Thing that I inherited from my late father. Yep, stored with mixed fuel and so I changed the lines and tried to rebuild the walbro carb but it didn’t work. Bought a new Chinesium carb that was doa and didn’t work. Local mow shop replaced it and works great still.
Looking for a stronger saw now. Have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher that’s fine but for more long term use looking at a new 372xp or an MS241 or MS261 for a few heavily wooded acres with white ash. Figure those pro saws would be good for felling and bucking and my homeowner saws for light limbing. Is this a failure in logic?
I’ve got a late 1990s Poulan Wild Thing that I inherited from my late father. Yep, stored with mixed fuel and so I changed the lines and tried to rebuild the walbro carb but it didn’t work. Bought a new Chinesium carb that was doa and didn’t work. Local mow shop replaced it and works great still.
Looking for a stronger saw now. Have a Husqvarna 450 Rancher that’s fine but for more long term use looking at a new 372xp or an MS241 or MS261 for a few heavily wooded acres with white ash. Figure those pro saws would be good for felling and bucking and my homeowner saws for light limbing. Is this a failure in logic?
Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
That's a rather wide range you come up with. Your Wild Thing is around 40cc if I'm correct, the 450 around 50cc, the 241 is back at 42cc (so why bother?), the 261 is around 50cc again, but will run circles around the 450 and the 372 is a huge step up to 70cc, but that comes at a price in $$ and fatigue/weight that you may want to take into account. Not talking "Bottom Dwellers" anymore either ;o)
Look at the trees you need to maintain/fall and get the lightest pro saw that will fit your needs, prolly best 2nd hand. Might well be some 60cc or even just the 50cc 261 you mention. Chances are your 450 will almost cut anything the 261 will cut, just a little slower and less comfy. So how much cuttng do you do to warrant the cost of a new 261?
That is just boring ecomics however - not taking into account the joy of ownership. But you may want to be honest about that to yourself if that is what you end up paying for.
I get almost all my cutting/falling done with a 30cc Makita tophandle and a 45cc Zenoah (excellent weight/power/handling imho) and seldom find the "need" to grab something bigger. Just keep the chains sharp. Grabbing a 288xpg that I came by cheap is mostly just for "fun" (or for milling), but you sure don't want to be bucking small wood with that all day (not 18 anymore either).
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That is definitely true, which is why when I do recommend something like a small stihl pro saw, I always offer to help them find a good one. I'm not the saw professional that many of y'all on here are, but I can usually do OK picking out a decent used saw.
I know nothing about husqvarna saws, I have never owned or run one, but the 261 is a fine saw. They will cut anything that a person will encounter in my area, even if they might take a while to do so. I cut a 35" hickory with an old 026 with an 18" bar a few years ago, it had a HUGE canopy. The saw did fine, but it took me most of one day and part of another to cut it up completely. The afternoon of the second day I went out and bought a new MS461
Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
On topic: If you decide you _do_ want/need a gasoline powered saw (over battery/electric), I'd go for a good used 2nd hand major brand saw.
With many people stopping to burn wood or changing to battery/electric saws the offers of 2nd hand used quality saws are plentyful, at least where I live. Over time I have picked up a fair amount of (dead) China clones, together with saws that I was actually looking for, and mostly the quality of the parts is horrible. I have not recently bought a new one (and not planning to), so I can't comment on current state of quality.
Friends have asked me to look out for good 2nd hand saws and it was never hard to find a fairly "modern" saw for them. To me spending 50-100€ on a used major (historic) brand saw over some 80€ for a brand new Chineese one is a clear cut case for the used saw. Mostly these may just need a new carb kit or some such to get them running fine again. Make sure you get a saw with electronic ignition (tinkering with breaker points is not for homeowners) and a working brake (often abused). I've recently bought Husky 45, 50, Dolmar 115i, 111, 109, Oleo-Mac 264f, what have you ... all fine old-(ish) quality saws, all for 35-70€, all working directly or after cleaning (one carb kit).
Many people put old saws up for sale, asking way more than that (over here it is just Stihl and some Husqvarna that is mostly overpriced in the 2nd hand market with folks asking for 200-400€ for a working small-ish 30-50cc saw), but if you spend some time looking you will readily find good deals on not too ancient saws of the less widely known but excellent brands (think Zenoah, Shindaiwa, Echo, Jonsered(s), Oleo-Mac etc.).
Some people will ask gold and diamonds for old junkers, but some don't know what they're selling, don't need the money and want to get rid of the space waster or generally don't care (selling off after daddy passes away or some such). Be quick and close the deal.
Beware of quality difference in modern versus old machines of "brands" of the likes of Homelite and McCulloch.
Generally, with some looking around, you should be able to find a fine, well-built older saw that can still be responsibly used (anti-vibe & chain brake!) for the same price of a new Chineese clone (under 100€/$) and it will still serve you for many years of light usage if taken care of properly (which is the whole problem in the first place with gasoline powered equipment). I'd certainly go with that.
With many people stopping to burn wood or changing to battery/electric saws the offers of 2nd hand used quality saws are plentyful, at least where I live. Over time I have picked up a fair amount of (dead) China clones, together with saws that I was actually looking for, and mostly the quality of the parts is horrible. I have not recently bought a new one (and not planning to), so I can't comment on current state of quality.
Friends have asked me to look out for good 2nd hand saws and it was never hard to find a fairly "modern" saw for them. To me spending 50-100€ on a used major (historic) brand saw over some 80€ for a brand new Chineese one is a clear cut case for the used saw. Mostly these may just need a new carb kit or some such to get them running fine again. Make sure you get a saw with electronic ignition (tinkering with breaker points is not for homeowners) and a working brake (often abused). I've recently bought Husky 45, 50, Dolmar 115i, 111, 109, Oleo-Mac 264f, what have you ... all fine old-(ish) quality saws, all for 35-70€, all working directly or after cleaning (one carb kit).
Many people put old saws up for sale, asking way more than that (over here it is just Stihl and some Husqvarna that is mostly overpriced in the 2nd hand market with folks asking for 200-400€ for a working small-ish 30-50cc saw), but if you spend some time looking you will readily find good deals on not too ancient saws of the less widely known but excellent brands (think Zenoah, Shindaiwa, Echo, Jonsered(s), Oleo-Mac etc.).
Some people will ask gold and diamonds for old junkers, but some don't know what they're selling, don't need the money and want to get rid of the space waster or generally don't care (selling off after daddy passes away or some such). Be quick and close the deal.
Beware of quality difference in modern versus old machines of "brands" of the likes of Homelite and McCulloch.
Generally, with some looking around, you should be able to find a fine, well-built older saw that can still be responsibly used (anti-vibe & chain brake!) for the same price of a new Chineese clone (under 100€/$) and it will still serve you for many years of light usage if taken care of properly (which is the whole problem in the first place with gasoline powered equipment). I'd certainly go with that.
What about this, that's three bad words when put together
.
Get an echo cs 400 or a cs 590. Both can be bought new on sale for 300-400$ 5 year warranty. Best to buy from a dealer they will register the warranty set the saw up and will send you home with a full tank of gas and bar oil. I have had good success with all my echo equipment and dealer support in my area.
That 450 is a great saw, my favorite non ported plastic saw
. It has the same specs as the husky 353, and it has slightly more power than the 241, but it also weighs a lb more than a 241. To go to a 241 would be a waste of money to me unless you are cutting for profit, otherwise I would buy a 60 or 70cc saw as @Pudsy was saying.This is great practical advice, something most refuse to give.
Yeah, that tank of fuel has to be worth $5 these days too
.Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
Caught me red-handed thereWhat about this, that's three bad words when put together
The more we say/ post, the more opportunities exist for that to happen. Lord knows it happens to me a lot, even happened right here in this thread. It just proves I have a lot to learn, and I'm in good companyCaught me red-handed there
.Pudsy
ArboristSite Member
... good company
right back at yah!
I have an MS 170 that i use for limbing conifers - especially white spruce and fir. The older I get, the more I appreciate the lightness. It's also easy on fuel.
Dangerous
ArboristSite Lurker
Best new Bottom Dwelling saw light yet adequate in my humble opinion is a CS 352 Echo Home Depot 16 inch . Practice with the crap original equipment Ecco chain and blade then upgrade to an Oregon blade and more aggressive Oregon aggressive chain.
If you’re not afraid of a little bumpy ride that cuts faster reducing your fatigue of holding the song very light weight hi output small engine. Not not a commercial grade chainsaw but should be adequate for most occasional users.
A good deal for the money but not anywhere close to a commercial grade moneymaking chainsaw.
I like my bottom dwellers...
I have modded 50ish cc chinese zenoah clones.
They start really easy and cut atleast as fast as a 50cc pro saw but arent as nice. Unless I find a really good deal on a used pro saw its hard to justify buying a pro level saw when you only cut a few cord of wood a year and clear trails.
I have modded 50ish cc chinese zenoah clones.
They start really easy and cut atleast as fast as a 50cc pro saw but arent as nice. Unless I find a really good deal on a used pro saw its hard to justify buying a pro level saw when you only cut a few cord of wood a year and clear trails.
I personally know/knew, many are now deceased, men that cut contract for mills and paper companies using these Homelite chainsaws. With some maintenance they could get around 3 years out of them, that was a lot of hours of run time as they cut 5 -6 days a week. My FIL ran them for more than 12 years steady, I have most of his wore out saws, he kept every one and they mostly got scavenged for some parts. The core of those saws just kept on ticking if good mix was used and kept tuned properly. To those that owned and operated them they were PRO saws in all ways.
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