Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about

[PLMCRZY]

Well, I got one in that will go under the knife shortly. It is the black (sears) version and I've already pulled the muffler and this saw is brand new.

It's going to be a couple of weeks before it's turn comes up in the shop but it will get a higher compression piston, ported, polished, and I fully intend to find the breaking point (if there is one). I will take full pictures of the internals and post them in this thread.

So before anyone starts asking that saw is 17th in line right now.

Looking forward to that!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Santaclause]

the sound of it

the thing sounds just like my old husky 40!!! the sound of it I have a poulan pro straight shaft trimmer doesnt do bad I think it could use a little fine tunning but dont have the special tools for that.I would like to thank you Mark for doing this and showing the little videos of it in use I dont think it would be a bad saw for a homeowner at all I would like a saw with a bigger bar myself but could never justify paying 7-800.00 dollars for a stihl or husky pro model. I got a hell of a deal on the 40 way back when I was a teenager only used a bit for a ice storm we had and then walla wanted to sell it so that is how I ended up with a husky and is a great saw just used it today to cut up a tree at my inlaws.Would be very tempted to buy one of these when ready....

 

[IQRaceworks]

Great thread!! I've been looking around for a decent inexpensive saw to replace my old 2175 Poulan that I have. Well, not really replace it...it just doesn't have enough power for some larger jobs. I use my saw probably 2-3 times per year....mostly for cutting firewood, or doing limbing. I recently helped out a friend who had lots of big (10"-18") cedars downed on his property from tornado damage. My little Poulan had a VERY hard time getting through them.....it just didn't have the power. That's when I decided I wanted a bigger saw for bigger jobs.

I was looking at the Stihl 290, and the Husky 445 .....but after reading this thread, and seeing that I didn't need to spend $400+ on a saw that would only get used a few times a year, I deiced to go and look at the Poulan Pro 2050's. I was able to get Lowe's to match the price that Amazon had on them ($199), so I decided to buy it. That's an extra $200 that I can use for PPE, or a new chain/bar if I ever decided to change it out. After I put some fuel and bar oil in it, it fired right up after a few pulls. Can't wait to test this thing out. For what I need....this saw was an awesome deal. :msp_smile:

Here it is next to my small Poulan 2175.

 

[job247]

I replaced the original vanguard chain that came on mine with a regular full chisel chain and that made a big difference. So far I like the saw. For the price I dont think you could beat it for a homeowner saw or a back up saw when going to the woods.:msp_thumbsup:

 

[Modifiedmark]

good reading, thanks Mark. I eyeballed those saw and posted my observations when Sears came out with them. I thought they looked pretty good. :hmm3grin2orange:

How does it compare to a Poulan 330 in performance?

Why would you think about comparing it to a PP330? The 330 is a larger, pro constructed saw that sold for near double that when introduced years ago. I posted videos of this saws performace in this thread, see for yourself.

This PP5020 is what it is.


IQRaceworks, you sound like the type that this saw was made for and will probably suit you very well. .

 

[joe25DA]

Great thread!! I've been looking around for a decent inexpensive saw to replace my old 2175 Poulan that I have. Well, not really replace it...it just doesn't have enough power for some larger jobs. I use my saw probably 2-3 times per year....mostly for cutting firewood, or doing limbing. I recently helped out a friend who had lots of big (10"-18") cedars downed on his property from tornado damage. My little Poulan had a VERY hard time getting through them.....it just didn't have the power. That's when I decided I wanted a bigger saw for bigger jobs.

I was looking at the Stihl 290, and the Husky 445 .....but after reading this thread, and seeing that I didn't need to spend $400+ on a saw that would only get used a few times a year, I deiced to go and look at the Poulan Pro 2050's. I was able to get Lowe's to match the price that Amazon had on them ($199), so I decided to buy it. That's an extra $200 that I can use for PPE, or a new chain/bar if I ever decided to change it out. After I put some fuel and bar oil in it, it fired right up after a few pulls. Can't wait to test this thing out. For what I need....this saw was an awesome deal. :msp_smile:

Here it is next to my small Poulan 2175.

nice saws irc. i like your floor too

 

[cat-face timber]

Great thread and review
thank you

 

[Stihl-Pioneer]

I don't own a tach so I have no idea what rpm's the 330 turns.

Max is up there on a 330, 13,800

 

[Modifiedmark]

I do know the 5020 is no match for a PP330 especially if the 20" bar is buried.

I also just got a new eye opening. I just came in from testing a Stihl MS290 that I just fixed for a guy. Clean low hour saw with its original 18" bar with the goofy .325 pitch Stihl safety chain on it.

To all that are #####ing about the Vanguard chain on the 5020 I say be darn glad they didnt put a chain on it like they did the MS290.

I just tested this MS290 with a fresh sharping on the chain and I have no doubts the 5020 will out cut it as there setup from the factory.

The antivibe is tons better on it as well.

 

[zogger]

Because the 330 is the only saw I have used recently, an older design with 54 cc's instead of a newer design with 50cc I would expect them to be somewhat similar in performance when new and in stock condition, but since I have never run one I have no way of knowing so I thought I would ask someone who has run them both. I don't own a tach so I have no idea what rpm's the 330 turns.

I have a very slow connection and the videos constantly freeze up so I can't get much usefull information from them. Even the fastest saw can take a minute or two to make a cut when viewed on my computer.

I haven't run either, so I'll guess for both of us!

I would guess the newer strato saw has faster chain speed, and cuts fast, and the older saw has a slower speed but more torque. The newer saw will undoubtedly get better mileage as well.

 

[JimM]

I haven't run either, so I'll guess for both of us!

I would guess the newer strato saw has faster chain speed, and cuts fast, and the older saw has a slower speed but more torque. The newer saw will undoubtedly get better mileage as well.

I haven't put my tach on the 5020, but I doubt it is even close to turning the r's of a 330.

 

[IQRaceworks]

What's the best way to turn the carb adjustment screws on my new Poulan 5020? Instead of a standard slot that I can turn with a screwdriver....the screws on the carb are just knurled on the outside. Is there a special tool I need??

 

[nick 55]

Yes, there is a tool. Its about $6 and can be found on the bay or from various online vendors. I don't know if it can be bought from a local saw shop or not.

Nick

 

[Cliff R]

It's a waste of time to make comparisons between different saws of similiar CC's unless they are using the same length bar and type of chain. The 5020 featured here appears a bit "weak" in the videos with the bar buried. It really doesn't have a fighting chance outfitted with the Vanguard chain, IMHO. Even in perfect shape those chains don't work all that well. After 2-3 sharpenings they are really starting to cut poorly. I have a Poulan 330 in here right now for repairs, with it's original 22" bar and VG chain. It's been hand sharpened several times by the owner, who knows little to nothing about saws and sharpening chains. When I tested it in the wood pile in a big log, it just put out dust and had to be "pushed" pretty hard to cut very well at all. Even after being straightened up and correctly sharpened, it was just OK, not cutting nearly as well as standard 3/8" Oregon chain without any safety features in the same condition.

Back when I purchased several Poulan 330's here, they did the same thing, cut OK at first, then cutting performance deteriorated rapidly with each sharpning. The 330's are pretty much maxxed out with 22" bar right to start with, so I modded a Husqvarna small mount 18" bar and did some additonal testing. The 330 really started to show it's colors at that point, it was a completely different saw at all levels. I suspect one would see the same thing with the 5020 in question here. To have a fighting chance it needs a shorter bar, and good chain without any safety features.

Another thing to mention here is the "Stratto" engine. Afer working with several of them here, I've noticed that it doesn't help them much to drift to far from the factory settings. When leaned up to make them rev, the power curve is narrowed up some, and they fall out of the good power easier, than when adjusted with a slightly richer "H" speed setting. I also noticed that the ones I had in here to work with, had pretty free flowing mufflers on them, and that muffler modding them made them a LOT louder, but very little, if any improvement in cutting performance.......Cliff

 

[IQRaceworks]

Thanks for all the great info. What would be a good chain to replace the 72 vanguard chain that came on my 5020 with?

 

[redheadwoodshed]

Thanks for all the great info. What would be a good chain to replace the 72 vanguard chain that came on my 5020 with?

In my opinion Stihl makes the best chain.I don't know the numbers off the top of my head, but I mostly run 3/8" full comp. round chisel.
That said, I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion.

 

[zogger]

Thanks for all the great info. What would be a good chain to replace the 72 vanguard chain that came on my 5020 with?

Is that .325 chain, or 3/8ths? What's on it now? Makes a difference.

Determine which it is, then try either the oregon or stihl chain product selector, go for pro grade for a replacement, not homerenter grade.

 

[Cliff R]

That said, I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion."

+1

Stihl makes good chain, so does Oregon. Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't, especially after you sharpen it and the cutters get smaller, but the safety features don't.

I've ran into brand new lengths of Stihl chain recently that didn't cut worth two squirts of duck poop out of the box. All of them were purchased at our local John Deere store, who is also a Stihl dealer. Sucks to have to sharpen a brand new chain before you use it. Never had this happen with Oregon chain, they usually show up cutting as good as or better than after a complete/correct sharpening with a new file.....Cliff

 

[Vibes]

That said, I don't think that saw should have came with a 20" bar or 3/8" chain.An 18" with .325 would have been better.Just one opinion."

+1

Stihl makes good chain, so does Oregon. Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't, especially after you sharpen it and the cutters get smaller, but the safety features don't.

I've ran into brand new lengths of Stihl chain recently that didn't cut worth two squirts of duck poop out of the box. All of them were purchased at our local John Deere store, who is also a Stihl dealer. Sucks to have to sharpen a brand new chain before you use it. Never had this happen with Oregon chain, they usually show up cutting as good as or better than after a complete/correct sharpening with a new file.....Cliff

Any brand having "safety features" isn't going to work as well as chain that doesn't

I ran a loop of some kind of Oregon safety chain on my Sears Pro Yellow Max 40cc saw. I ordered a 16 inch bar and 56 DL Woodsman Pro 30LP from Baileys, and it turned out I needed a 57 DL chain. I took the stock loop down to my local saw shop and had him make me a 57DL loop out of it. It cut better than I remember safety cutting. It wasn't 30 LP by any stretch, but I think safety chain is falling into the same argument that this thread is trying to dispose the myth of.

The 5020 wasn't made for guys on this website!!! The guy that this saw is intended to be sold to is going to run it may be 2 hrs in 2 years. When the chain goes dull, this guy won't even remember when he bought the saw and he's going down to Sears or Lowes to get a new loop and if he's lucky the girl thats working that Sunday won't give him the wrong chain. This safety chain talk is starting to sound like the oil threads.

 

[Chris-PA]

The 5020 wasn't made for guys on this website!!! The guy that this saw is intended to be sold to is going to run it may be 2 hrs in 2 years. When the chain goes dull, this guy won't even remember when he bought the saw and he's going down to Sears or Lowes to get a new loop and if he's lucky the girl thats working that Sunday won't give him the wrong chain. This safety chain talk is starting to sound like the oil threads.

Sorry, but I would be perfectly happy with a 5020 - it looks well suited for what I do and I don't doubt I could run it hard for 12 years just like I did my old Craftsman WildThing. Of course, I'm not drinking the Coolaid that one needs an expensive mag cased saw to cut a lot of firewood. Gimmie a cheaper saw, well tuned and well maintained with a sharp chain. The thing is, I can't justify buying a 5020 because all my cheaper, older saws work too well.