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I almost jacked myself in the crotch when I did that the other day and forgot to push in the decomp. That was on a 260. That is unsafe in my opinion.


tilt the saw 45*.

funny story at my expense... My little 011 kicks more than my 066 (no decomp) does. A month or few ago, I was crotch-starting it and didn't have it tilted. jammed the cord at half-pull, bar tip dropped and the rear handle said hello to the boys. :dizzy:
 
tilt the saw 45*.

funny story at my expense... My little 011 kicks more than my 066 (no decomp) does. A month or few ago, I was crotch-starting it and didn't have it tilted. jammed the cord at half-pull, bar tip dropped and the rear handle said hello to the boys. :dizzy:

I hate to laugh but dam that wuz funny:cry: :cry: :cry: :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy:
 
I took a Chainsaw instructor course once and was taught that the only approved methods were to either use the foot on handle (on ground) method or the leg lock method. Either way the brake should be on.

I used to "drop start" my saws on occasion, but did not know of the leg lock method, which I now use.
 
You have to have your knee bent when you do that one, and also pull to the side, not up. There is no reason you shouldn't be able to rip the cord completely out of the saw and never come near your crotch. Of course everyone is built differently too I guess.


I did a lot of that earlier, but the artritis in my right hand became much worse (more painful also) after the medicine called Vioxx suddenly became dangerous, so I can't rip with my right hand any more.:pumpkin2:

Drop starts only, with left hand on the rope, after that........;)
 
I did a lot of that earlier, but the artritis in my right hand became much worse (more painful also) after the medicine called Vioxx suddenly became dangerous, so I can't rip with my right hand any more.:pumpkin2:

Drop starts only, with left hand on the rope, after that........;)


Seems like you could benefit from a new feature on some of the smaller saws from Stihl, Husqvarna and Jonsered. It's a spring that gain tension by easy pulls on the cord and unloads by cranking the saw for you. Makes the between-your-knees method the best starting procedure, and at no risk of injuries. Their small saws are intended for homeowners, and I hear you have a cabin up north, so it's like made just for you. ;)

Only real problem with them is that when you buy them used, it's damn hard to get a good grip on if they have good compression or not by holding them in the pull cord and see if they could hold their own weight. They seldom can, so I guess they're usually pretty well used... :dizzy:
 
Seems like you could benefit from a new feature on some of the smaller saws from Stihl, Husqvarna and Jonsered. It's a spring that gain tension by easy pulls on the cord and unloads by cranking the saw for you. .....

NOPE!!!!!

I do just fine with my drop starting! :sucks:

Actually, it is a much better (and safer, with the brake on) way to start a saw anyway, but I didn't know before a couple of years ago....
 
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Just read this thread and I noticed a couple of things so I'll put in my 2c worth.

When you flood the saw, you don't have to leave it overnight, especially if you're out in the field and need to get back to work... take the plug out, put the switch on run or off and crank it a good few times to cycle the excess gas out. Dry the plug, put it back and try again.
It will start a bit smokey but that clears out pretty quick.

Thall mentioned the high idle position after the initial 'burp' and moving the switch one click. He said let it warm up for a few seconds.....if you have the chainbrake on everything will be straining, better to blip the throttle straight away and let it warm up in the normal idle position.
If the chainbrake were off when starting then that leads to some safety issues with the chain wizzing away at high idle.....

My 250 often does not 'fire' on choke, I just get a kick from the pull cord, if I don't go to half choke straight away, it WILL flood.:chainsaw:

Get to know your saw's idiosyncracies, they'll serve you well for years.
 
Just read this thread and I noticed a couple of things so I'll put in my 2c worth.

When you flood the saw, you don't have to leave it overnight, especially if you're out in the field and need to get back to work... take the plug out, put the switch on run or off and crank it a good few times to cycle the excess gas out. Dry the plug, put it back and try again.
It will start a bit smokey but that clears out pretty quick.

Thall mentioned the high idle position after the initial 'burp' and moving the switch one click. He said let it warm up for a few seconds.....if you have the chainbrake on everything will be straining, better to blip the throttle straight away and let it warm up in the normal idle position.
If the chainbrake were off when starting then that leads to some safety issues with the chain wizzing away at high idle.....

My 250 often does not 'fire' on choke, I just get a kick from the pull cord, if I don't go to half choke straight away, it WILL flood.:chainsaw:

Get to know your saw's idiosyncracies, they'll serve you well for years.
Why does it matter what position the switch is in with the plug out?
 
If it's in Fast Idle or Full Choke then you won't clear out the flooding issue.

I guess you have to be a Stihl guy to understand the switch.

Bermie is smart, don't mess with her.
I've got a Stihl, and I see what you mean. I was just thinking of real saws that have switches separate from throttle and choke. :greenchainsaw:
 
Why does it matter what position the switch is in with the plug out?
Space, especially while clearing a flooded saw on a hot day, it is 100% smart to have your switch in 'off' position! :D Hm, unless R roulette be yer game of choice I 'spose.

:cheers: Bermie! (and All :) )

Serge
 

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