Brainstorm-> Ideas for mobile bucking operation w/ hand saw for Joe Blow

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YEs, guy down the street turned me on to a local arborist that delivers to him.

Basically, in my packed town, the arborists have to pay to get rid of the wood at the transfer station. So they will give it away free any time you like.

When the arborist showed up, he confirmed that. I asked why they don't sell firewood, he said they make more $ being arborists and they break even on firewood... it's just to keep their employees busy during down time.

I asked him "So if I buy a wood stove insert, you're telling me I'll never run out of firewood so long as you guys are in business?"

"Nope" he said.

*shrugs*



Free is free. And did you say it was delivered?

Philbert
 
Received a pickup bed's worth of "maple" today from the local arborist. Beggars can't be choosers, but I figure the maple is not sugar and thus isn't a high BTU hardwood. Oh well, free is free:

View attachment 270800View attachment 270801

In case ya havn't already, start a "Shoulder season" stack.

Get that silver Maple cut and split, and stacked up off the ground(It rots like crazy with ground contact), and it's excellent for taking the chill off during a damp spring or Fall day, and for quick warmups in the mornings.

Split it so most is a bit larger than you would Oak, and burn time is extended. Also make sure to get busy with the Hatchett and split up some little bolts for kindling, as the stuff seems to have evolved for that purpose.;)

No point in burning the good stuff when it's not needed, and saves it for Mid Jan-Feb when it's definately needed.

You get the better half talked into an insert yet, or are you waiting on the Oil/Gas bill for leverage?
Still sitting at 88% in the Propane Tank here..or right about 30 bucks to run the water heater and stove for 4 months, plus some heating 2,500+sq. ft.:hmm3grin2orange:


Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
I stink at identifying wood species. :( If you can tell it is indeed silver maple, that'd be great for me to start learning. I've been watching Youtube videos to try and learn how to identify trees around here.

When I did not have a saw, and only had a manually operated, hydraulic splitter, all I could do was split! So I split the crap out of any and everything to little tiny stuff. I am hoping that varied assortment will be ok for shoulder season. The Maple I split pretty large. I read a thread where a guy said he splits every he can't palm. That was an easy, on the fly, way for me to measure and that's what I used today to split what the guy dropped over this afternoon. I will stack tomorrow.
 
Oh, and I am good to go for an insert me thinks. I am also leaning towards a Blaze King Princess insert me thinks... time will tell! :rock:
 
I stink at identifying wood species. :( If you can tell it is indeed silver maple, that'd be great for me to start learning. I've been watching Youtube videos to try and learn how to identify trees around here.

When I did not have a saw, and only had a manually operated, hydraulic splitter, all I could do was split! So I split the crap out of any and everything to little tiny stuff. I am hoping that varied assortment will be ok for shoulder season. The Maple I split pretty large. I read a thread where a guy said he splits every he can't palm. That was an easy, on the fly, way for me to measure and that's what I used today to split what the guy dropped over this afternoon. I will stack tomorrow.


Looks like Silver Maple from what I can make out in the pics.

Check out every wood I.D. thread on here, and you'll get some better "Feel" for things.
After you cut and split a while, you'll be able to tell species by smell while splitting.

The guys that run older stoves with smaller doors, like running "Bolts" that are split to about wrist Dia. so they can get a full load in.
Smaller splits burn faster, but start easier as well, and is why some of the folks that burn Greenish wood will split that way..or learned to split that way. Another thing to tinker with when you get the insert...achieving the all night burn with seasoned wood.:hmm3grin2orange:

Congrats on the insert!
Once installed and running, you will wonder why you waited so dadgum long.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
I stink at identifying wood species.

There are some good books if you are really interested:

- Books for arborists, or by the USFS, etc. for live trees; tell by shape, leaves, bark, etc.
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/techline/wood-id.pdf
Forest Products Laboratory - USDA Forest Service

- Books for woodworkers: tell by the grain. etc.
Identifying Wood: R Bruce Hoadley: 9780942391046: Amazon.com: Books

As for wood burners, you can probably get by with distinguishing between hardwoods (oak, birch, maple, ash, etc.) and softwoods (pine, spruce, etc.).
Especially if you have the free delivery service you described. It's not like you are selling it and have to describe it accurately. Probably more important to just recognize when it is dry/seasoned enough to burn.

Some guys get picky about what they burn by species. My pile is opportunity wood: all of the above, plus lilac, box elder, buckthorn, . . . Sometimes it helps to know what type of wood it is when splitting. But as this thread has progressed I can see that in short time you will be the proud owner of a powered splitter, and soon that will not be an issue either!

Get it, buck it, split it, stack it, let it sit for a year, burn it.

Philbert
 
PETA alert! PETA alert!

That mouse is probably on some endangered species list. Or a critical food source for one that is. You are likely looking at a large fine and possible jail time.
 
Well folks I bought a Kiskars X27 and have been splitting with that mostly. I've also accumulated 2.5 cords of wood thus far and am shooting for 8 (2 yrs ahead):


I've also killed my first mouse:

I don't care how hot your girlfriend is, You need to get some things in order. Set her down and point out:
*Buy me a 50cc starter saw.
*no more sloppy eggs, fry them right.
*You stack the wood, the stove keeps you warm as well.
*Rake the leaves, our back yard is a mess.
What will she look like in 30 years? A good saw will still be beautiful.

Seriously, enjoyed the thread....and I have been married 30 years.....and please don't tell my wife what I posted.:canny:
 
Wood pile as of 1/21:

View attachment 275048

Took deliver of a "10 Yarder" and holy crap did it wear me out cutting and hand splitting for 3 days (didn't help I had 3/4 of a pickup truck full to start with as well, hehe)

I think I have c/s/s 3.5 cords (w/ 30% loss for log cabin stacked rows).
 
Wood pile as of 1/21:

View attachment 275048

Took deliver of a "10 Yarder" and holy crap did it wear me out cutting and hand splitting for 3 days (didn't help I had 3/4 of a pickup truck full to start with as well, hehe)

I think I have c/s/s 3.5 cords (w/ 30% loss for log cabin stacked rows).

Looking good man! Once you get ahead two years, it wont be that bad..unless you decide to always do two years c/s/s every year, and sell one for CAD and FAD gear....you know youll get addicted...
 
You can stack your rows where they are touching each other. It will not slow down the drying process and they hold each other up. I think when some of the stacks you have shrink a little, you might need some restacking.

I like to put 3 rows together, and space them out on the bottom so there is air space. The middle row is plumb, and the two outside rows lean in and touch the other rows at the top only. They all hold each other up and you take up less space. Of course you have many choices on stacking, and most of them work fine. I just think you might have some frustration if a stack falls over in a wind storm.

I put pics of a couple of my stacks from last year. I am hoping you see the way they lean a little into the middle.

Congratulations, you are dong great.

Dan
 
Not a bad idea. I have a few splits bridging between stacks where a stack was leaning more than I wanted. So far so good, but sometimes I wished I stacked everything "regular" from the get go to maximize space. Oh well, my wood next year will be all the more dry at the start.

I c/s/s most of the weekend and got through a huge pile with larger logs than my 16in bar can handle...getting there. 4.6 cords (the criss cross stacked piles I subtract 25%)

Makes my head spin that I have almost 4 more to go. :msp_cursing:

View attachment 276020
You can stack your rows where they are touching each other. It will not slow down the drying process and they hold each other up. I think when some of the stacks you have shrink a little, you might need some restacking.

I like to put 3 rows together, and space them out on the bottom so there is air space. The middle row is plumb, and the two outside rows lean in and touch the other rows at the top only. They all hold each other up and you take up less space. Of course you have many choices on stacking, and most of them work fine. I just think you might have some frustration if a stack falls over in a wind storm.

I put pics of a couple of my stacks from last year. I am hoping you see the way they lean a little into the middle.

Congratulations, you are dong great.

Dan
 
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