Brand new chain, cutting poorly, and wearing weird

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So you guys just got done helping me with my 030 AV, and here I am with my palms out again. Saw running great scream sounds like a good saw starter on the second pole and that was before I even got to the carburetor. Go to cut some wood with it And the chain feels like it’s sliding off. The chain is brand new, it’s cutting like a butter knife through bricks and the teeth are wearing super weird. on every single one of the teeth, the tip is turning black like they got gang green or something. I thought maybe they didn’t file the rakers right at the factory or something so I gave them a little kiss with the file and that didn’t help anything. I’ll put a picture of the teeth. I’m pretty sure I got the right size chain on there. It’s not skipping or anything, but once again any help would be super appreciated and I thaIMG_1305.jpegnk you all in advance.
 
It looks like you hit grit or dirt immediately. It'll have to be filed back far enough to reestablish the chisel point. ALL of the damage has to be removed to make it cut right. Find the worst tooth, count the strokes that it takes to make it sharp again and then file each tooth using that number of strokes. OR, have it ground at your local servicing dealer.
 
lol I thought every single one of those thoughts except for hitting dirt, literally the chain went on the saw then right into an oak log. I’ve been doing this a little while, off and on for like 20 years, and I even second-guess myself and went and looked at my other saw just to make sure the teeth are going in the right direction. I know everybody makes doofus mistakes, and I am a self proclaimed doofus, so I figure I probably make at least twice as many. As I’m typing this looking at the saw, I see something else that kind of grabs my curiosity that I’m gonna send a picture of as well.image.jpg i’ll tell you what as I’m looking at this picture waiting for it to upload them teeth do look like they got ran backwards. Huh.
 

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lol I thought every single one of those thoughts except for hitting dirt, literally the chain went on the saw then right into an oak log. I’ve been doing this a little while, off and on for like 20 years, and I even second-guess myself and went and looked at my other saw just to make sure the teeth are going in the right direction. I know everybody makes doofus mistakes, and I am a self proclaimed doofus, so I figure I probably make at least twice as many. As I’m typing this looking at the saw, I see something else that kind of grabs my curiosity that I’m gonna send a picture of as well.View attachment 1223652 i’ll tell you what as I’m looking at this picture waiting for it to upload them teeth do look like they got ran backwards. Huh.
My bad I couldn’t figure out how to edit my post, that’s the whole point of the little video I put on there as I thought that the rakers looked bent too, but if you look every single one of them just like that.
 
You hit something, period. That chain is dull and won’t cut ****. Sharpen till all that point damage is gone. It only takes a second to dull a chain.
If what you are cutting is dirty switch to semi-chisel.
Many of the trees I've cleaned up in my yard have metal, sometimes big, sometimes small, but hitting even a small piece I go from cutting to sanding in a second and that's with semi-chisel.
 
I blew up 2 chains this summer flush-cutting stumps. One stump had rocks embedded deep inside and the other had a hidden piece of rebar. I was cutting with the Hoosky 592XP when I hit the first rock and it gave one helluva kick-back. So...yup, trees can have rocks and other crap inside 'em.

If y'all don't like sharpening, there is a good service: www.razzorsharp.com that will have that chain good-as-new.

JQ
 
I blew up 2 chains this summer flush-cutting stumps. One stump had rocks embedded deep inside and the other had a hidden piece of rebar. I was cutting with the Hoosky 592XP when I hit the first rock and it gave one helluva kick-back. So...yup, trees can have rocks and other crap inside 'em.

If y'all don't like sharpening, there is a good service: www.razzorsharp.com that will have that chain good-as-new.

JQ
Much more expeditious to use a stump grinder if you own one (I do) or sub it out. Tungsten Carbide teeth on a grinder really don't like rocks or metal but can deal with them unlike a chain.
 
Much more expeditious to use a stump grinder if you own one (I do) or sub it out. Tungsten Carbide teeth on a grinder really don't like rocks or metal but can deal with them unlike a chain.
Expeditious means acting or done in a quick and efficient way123. Synonyms for expeditious include swift, prompt, rapid, fast, and speedy1.

He blew up 2 chains doing stumps plural. Good chance if it was me I would be done and have two trashed chains before the stump grinder guy even calls back. At least you did not say cost effective.
 
Expeditious means acting or done in a quick and efficient way123. Synonyms for expeditious include swift, prompt, rapid, fast, and speedy1.

He blew up 2 chains doing stumps plural. Good chance if it was me I would be done and have two trashed chains before the stump grinder guy even calls back. At least you did not say cost effective.
Depends on the diameter of the stump if it's quick or not actually and it's extremely cost effective for me because I OWN the machine..... and it's paid for. In fact I paid for it in full when I bought it. I'm not conducive to finance charges on anything.

Around these parts, stump grinding is usually a buck an inch measured at the widest point just above the ground.

Typically, I don't like grinding flush cut stumps but that is personal preference only and I usually grind them at least 6" below grade.

The big issue with a stump grinder is access, especially in fenced in back yards. Always my first question when a customer calls is 'Where is the stump(s) located at'...
 
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