Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
I'd say no, because stump forensics says evidence was tampered with. Lol
Breaking in a new faller
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nope, just as it fell. I need a bar with a spirit level cause I sure don't cut what I think I see. Can't work on the landing either cause my bucking cuts all have a little slope also. Bad vision, bad technique or both I guess
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Maybe a six out of a ten. Your backcut was a little high and somewhat slanted, but you had no fibre pull and the tree went where you wanted, and there was no loss of life nor limb, so it's all good.
Next level backcut will be my first. I think I'm level when I start, then I get finished and look at it and say ^#@!)~!!!!!! Fortunately I had a day job for 30 yrs so I can still afford beer while I practice. I think I torque my saw while I'm in the cut.
do you switch sides when you switch from face to back cut, I.E. physically get up and walk around so that your saw is always up?
Cause chances are both the face and the back cut are not level, but about the same amount of crooked, and by switching sides you magnify the difference.
One of the reasons I think the SSD or GOL version of cutting trees is kind of dumb. (Game of Logging, or Swedish Stump Dance)
Cause chances are both the face and the back cut are not level, but about the same amount of crooked, and by switching sides you magnify the difference.
One of the reasons I think the SSD or GOL version of cutting trees is kind of dumb. (Game of Logging, or Swedish Stump Dance)
Yes, you just described it perfectly! I've noticed Logger Wade on YouTube almost always borecuts his back cuts to avoid this. I borecut when I have to but I don't love it. Midwest stumps tend to be about 2" above the dirt, would this account for the GOL technique being more prevalent here? West coast stumps usually seem to be higher. Never had the chance to watch a real faller work so I live vicariously via YouTube! lol
SSD is more prevalent, I think more because of the timber, being hardwood and therefore more likely to have a lean, or more chair prone, that and a fondness for short bars.
Bore cutting has its uses, but I feel that some folks rely on it a bit too much.
As for the tall stumps out here, it has more to do with root swell, and steep ground than being able to get closer to the ground, a 3/4 wrap saw is nice and all, but a guy could always back bar the cuts to get em real low.
The root swell on Conifer trees will mess up the structure of a 2x4, where the same thing is seen as a bonus on deciduous lumber, structure vs aesthetics. Not to mention the log trucks and loaders don't like messing with the fat ends...
The other factor for tall stumps, at least for ceder and hemlock, is butt rot, end up loosing quite a bit of wood on some trees just because the butt is rotten for the first 10-15 feet, and just about every one will have some rot within 12" of the ground. Not so much on Doug Fir... but still possible.
Bore cutting has its uses, but I feel that some folks rely on it a bit too much.
As for the tall stumps out here, it has more to do with root swell, and steep ground than being able to get closer to the ground, a 3/4 wrap saw is nice and all, but a guy could always back bar the cuts to get em real low.
The root swell on Conifer trees will mess up the structure of a 2x4, where the same thing is seen as a bonus on deciduous lumber, structure vs aesthetics. Not to mention the log trucks and loaders don't like messing with the fat ends...
The other factor for tall stumps, at least for ceder and hemlock, is butt rot, end up loosing quite a bit of wood on some trees just because the butt is rotten for the first 10-15 feet, and just about every one will have some rot within 12" of the ground. Not so much on Doug Fir... but still possible.
bnmc98
ArboristSite Guru
Deep snow will keep stumps high if you don't dig.
1270d
ArboristSite Guru
Funny you say that about flair on hardwood logs. I almost always butt the flair off, so low stumps wouldn't be the thing in my area. Regional things again,..
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Maybe your bar and chain is wore out and won't cut straight.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
I cut just above the flare myself. Usually 8-10".
No, it is all me, what I see as level and what is really level are not the same. I've got 3 sets and they all run true, had one get off the other day, brought it home and put the micrometer on every tooth and got them filed down and straightened out. I used to "make" them cut straight, not anymore
