Broken high jet carb stihl 064

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Shaka

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High everyone, best of wishes for 2023 for starters.

Came home with a used stihl 064 last week (ID with help from you guys, thanks!). Has Walbro WJ 65 carb on it.
When looking at the carb, i noticed the adjustmentscrew for the high jet is broken off, flush with the carb housing...
(Haven't got any pictures because i'm at work now.)
I presume there is nothing i can do, but to buy a new carb? I can't get a grip with pliers on it as it is broken off flush...
Drilling is out isn't an option as the diameter would be enlarged...
Anybody any suggestions?
Thanks in advance, again.
 
There is a reason the screw busted off flush with the carb body and it is highly likely it did so because of dissimilar corrosion is locking the threads together. Steel in alloy do not play well together in damp environments.
Give the remains a good soaking in a well reputed penetrating oil before you do anything- I would be heating the broken stub and spraying oil on as well.
Then my preferred method would be the (as Kevin suggests above) Dremel cut-off wheel slot (or hand held hacksaw blade) and a 3 X 75mm slot screwdriver.
 
You may be able to extract the remains of the screw with a tiny left-hand drill bit. I've not done it in a carb but I've done it in other applications with a small fastener that's been broken off. The bit will bite and then start backing the remains of the screw out.
Thats a tough row to hoe in that tiny little space without going off to the side but its the only thing I could think off too.
 
Thank you all for the info.
I got it out using the dremel method. Worked rather well.
Ordered new High en Low screw.
There was no corrosion, but when i removed the low jet screw, it was also a little bent.
I suspect the previous owner dropped the carb while giving it a clean or something, bending the 2 jet screws... Not sure...
Most importantly, new screws ordered, so hope to get this machine back to running condition within a few weeks...
New problem yet: i can't get the flywheel off, looks to be locked solid...
Thanks for all of your help everyone!
 
Thank you all for the info.
I got it out using the dremel method. Worked rather well.
Ordered new High en Low screw.
There was no corrosion, but when i removed the low jet screw, it was also a little bent.
I suspect the previous owner dropped the carb while giving it a clean or something, bending the 2 jet screws... Not sure...
Most importantly, new screws ordered, so hope to get this machine back to running condition within a few weeks...
New problem yet: i can't get the flywheel off, looks to be locked solid...
Thanks for all of your help everyone!
The flywheel uses a special puller, they are cheap even on eBay. I stuck a link in below for reference,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234782978801
 
Thanks for the info! If no success this weekend, probably will try to get one.

It is possible to remove them without the puller- but it sure isnt as easy as using one!

Bout the only thing the Chinese copies do reasonably well- the flywheel removal tools, get one of those that are double sided for the smaller and larger flywheels and not many Stihl flywheels will ever worry you in the future.
 
It is possible to remove them without the puller- but it sure isnt as easy as using one!

Bout the only thing the Chinese copies do reasonably well- the flywheel removal tools, get one of those that are double sided for the smaller and larger flywheels and not many Stihl flywheels will ever worry you in the future.
The wacking the end of the crank method has sent several nice saws my way when they destroy the crank end threads and on one it broke the crank throw. It can be done but I never suggest it to anyone with little experience.
 
The wacking the end of the crank method has sent several nice saws my way when they destroy the crank end threads and on one it broke the crank throw. It can be done but I never suggest it to anyone with little experience.

Agree whole heartily- I just said it could be done and that it is nowhere near as easy as doing it with the correct tool- causing damage would be one of the main reasons to use the tool.
 
Agree whole heartily- I just said it could be done and that it is nowhere near as easy as doing it with the correct tool- causing damage would be one of the main reasons to use the tool.
My reply was not aimed at you, Bob, more of a blanket statement to hopefully cover the responses of others that are sure to be posted that popping flywheels off with various hammers and drifts are as easy as can be. I have witnessed the carnage that can be done by the uninitiated. Not saying it can`t be done cause it can and often is but, there is always a but, damage is easily done and not so easily undone.
 
Good arguments as usual. This isn't a saw i would like to bust.
The other stihl's I worked on before (019t, 034, 036, 038) where a lot easier to remove the flywheel off.
It's just a little bit harder to get hold of the specific puller as my dealer for stihl himself doesn't like to sell them (at least a year ago).
I'll be trying to convince him again next saturday.
 
Anyone got a creation or hack for replacing these junk half screws on the 7310 Echo carbs?
After removing the limiters these things are joke. I'd rather buy something bolt in then rework these feeble things. If you've been there you know what I'm saying here.
 
The wacking the end of the crank method has sent several nice saws my way when they destroy the crank end threads and on one it broke the crank throw. It can be done but I never suggest it to anyone with little experience.
Must be the four pound hammer? Lol Mine is so small you'd be hard pressed to damage threads on the smallest crank ends. I think it's a 2oz ball peen maybe less.
 
Anyone got a creation or hack for replacing these junk half screws on the 7310 Echo carbs?
After removing the limiters these things are joke. I'd rather buy something bolt in then rework these feeble things. If you've been there you know what I'm saying here.
I remove them and make slotted caps on the lathe to fit over them and epoxy them on
 
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