Building a splitter

[ChoppyChoppy]

11gpm on a 4" cylinder will be slow. Roughly 13 second cycle, and that's if it stays on high flow.

My machine has a 5 second cycle and if you ask me, that's borderline slow. Sounds fasts, but it's not really.

I'd go with at least a 20+ gpm pump if I was building it.

 

[Big_Eddy]

11gpm on a 4" cylinder will be slow. Roughly 13 second cycle, and that's if it stays on high flow.

My machine has a 5 second cycle and if you ask me, that's borderline slow. Sounds fasts, but it's not really.

I'd go with at least a 20+ gpm pump if I was building it.

But you don't need to walk away and lug back the next round. He does.

11gpm is all his 6.5 hp engine can handle. 22gpm would need 16-20 hp depending on 2nd stage and relief pressures

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

But you don't need to walk away and lug back the next round. He does.

11gpm is all his 6.5 hp engine can handle. 22gpm would need 16-20 hp depending on 2nd stage and relief pressures

I have used my processor just as a splitter, I can work faster than it can. Not hard to do. Pile the blocks near the machine and have at it.

We have 2 regular splitters, around 11-12 sec cycle time. They 9nly get us3d to bust up big chucks because they are so slow.


If I was building something on yhe semu cheap I'd find probably use a garden tractor engine.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

I have a 9 gpm single stage and twin 3" (approx 4.2" equivalent) 28" stroke cylinders and 2 people can barely keep up with it without a production table. If it had an auto-return valve it would be even tougher to keep up. Unless you are using it for a business or splitting alone all the time, holding the log and waiting, you'll probably be fine and not really miss the cycle time.

Its a world away from maul and wedges...

 

[Brad Burnette]

The pump came today, hoping to start mounting everything this weekend. Any recommendations for my return hose?

 

[bigbadbob]

Built this a few years ago. GX390/13hp 22gpm 5x24 cylinder 15 gallon, I cant tell you what the cycle time is but its never been a problem, splits most everything just off an idle,, keeps two persons busy, gets warm after four hours run.
Good luck on yer build.

 

[Big Red Oaks 4 me]

I have been using a home-made splitter for years. It was used when I got it, but it has an old 10hp Briggs with a Lovejoy connector to the pump. It probably borders between vintage and antique, but aside from being a little slow until the fluid warms up, it goes as fast as I want it to. The hydraulic cylinder is a rather large one, but it will bust knots with no problem.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Are you talking suction to the pump or return from the control valve? On the control valve to the tank i was advised to use full on hydraulic hose. Regular hose will not hold up. On the suction hose I used Eaton Puma 300 psi steel reinforced oil and gas line.

 

[Brad Burnette]

Are you talking suction to the pump or return from the control valve? On the control valve to the tank i was advised to use full on hydraulic hose. Regular hose will not hold up. On the suction hose I used Eaton Puma 300 psi steel reinforced oil and gas line.

I’m talking on the non suction side.

 

[kevin j]

for the suction side you want an actual suction hose with a spiral wire molded into the rubber to keep it from collapsing under vacuum say under a cold start condition Not a wire braid woven pressure hose and not a clear vinyl with fabric braid. those tend to collapse.

on the return side from valve to tank it should never see more than 25 to 50 psi the pressure drop across the return filter. if the return filter pressure drop exceeds that, it should go through the bypass valve in the filter head. Spin on filter’s are not rated for high pressure so the hose doesn’t need to be anything special. One advantage to using fabric braid hose and Barb fittings on the return is for some reason if there’s a malfunction in the bypass in return filter it will blow the hose instead of blowing the filter head. but even a fabric braid hose takes a couple hundred psi to blow. probably easier to do like noted above and just use a pressure hose because it’s more easily available.

 

[Brad Burnette]

Gonna start putting stuff together today. Had an idea on my tank to keep from drilling so many holes. Does anyone see a problem with teeing off my pour spout and connecting my return filter to the side of the tee and pour through the top as usual.

 

[triptester]

The return line must be submerged to prevent aerating the hydraulic fluid.

 

[Brad Burnette]

The return line must be submerged to prevent aerating the hydraulic fluid.

10 4...if I submerge the line would there be any problem pouring into the top of the tee where it’s not filtered?

 

[dennis066]

1 Spool Prince Rapid Extend Log Splitter Valve
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...ce-Rapid-Extend-Log-Splitter-Valve-9-8562.axd

 

[kevin j]

1 Spool Prince Rapid Extend Log Splitter Valve
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...ce-Rapid-Extend-Log-Splitter-Valve-9-8562.axd

Careful to do the math first as cylinders with normal rod size can be way too fast on regen extend. It can be a good thing if using a small pump, and cheaper than two stage pump. Does not help on retract speed through.

 

[Brad Burnette]

Here is the product description on the valve that I coupled with a an 11 gpm pump from rugged made.

This 25 gallon per minute valve fits a wide range of applications, most commonly used on log splitters.
This single spool valve is equipped with an detent valve (automatic) return feature that is fully adjustable.
Please note the valve handle can be mounted in either direction depending on the application.

 

[Brad Burnette]

What do ya'll think of this set up for my hydraulic oil tank. I acquired a 15 gal stainless steel tank and getting it set up like this:

 

[triptester]

The return should not discharge facing the suction . The suction opening should be horizontal so gravity can get fluid to the pump.

 

[c5rulz]

What do ya'll think of this set up for my hydraulic oil tank. I acquired a 15 gal stainless steel tank and getting it set up like this:View attachment 634224

Well let me preface this comment with, I don't know squat about building splitters, but.....................It seems to me reservoirs should have baffles to make sure the fluid mixes and cools better, rather than just going from the inlet to the outlet.

 

[sundance]

The return should not discharge facing the suction . The suction opening should be horizontal so gravity can get fluid to the pump.

Horizontal near the bottom of the tank so the height of the fluid (head) feeds the pump. Pump inlet itself shouldn't be much if any higher than the suction outlet from the tank. A strainer inside the tank is a really good idea as well.