Building a woodshed...

[gink595]

Thanks Gink595!

The back beam, highest point will be lag bolted to the wall every 4 feet and will also be resting on the garages window frame. I'll have to get pictures to show what I'm talking about.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you say that you going to use the support for the rafters and let them set on the headers of the window frames, I can only suggest you not do that, the live and dead roof loads will put pressure on them causing them to fail.(windows) Put a gap betweent the window header and the back girdrer, that way the loads aren't being transferd through your windows. In housing most will double the studs with king studs at the frames to prevent the unnecessary load from happening. Okay I think I'm done now

 

[Metals406]

Here is your pitch in degrees and (as previously stated) inched of rise per foot of run. It is an extremely shallow pitch, and I'd recommend going steeper. As far as having to cut a 'birdsmouth' on the rafters, it isn't necessary on such a shallow pitch. On a 6" beam, you'd only have a 3/8" gap on the inside of the 9' back wall (as well as the front of the 10' wall). You will have plenty of nailing surface for your toe-nails, and gain more stability with your frieze blocks. On a 15' free span, an actual 2x6 will do fine, as long as your area doesn't have excessive snow loads. I'd do 2' centers (and if you're nervous about sagging, double every other rafter).

You're building a woodshed here, not the Empire State Building.

I'd also recommend getting a speed-square. They are much easier for the novice user to understand than a steel square.

Swanson makes a nice one:

And I like the Craftsman version (it has a lifetime guarantee), if it gets all beat up, you exchange it for a new one.

Good luck with your project!

 

[johnha]

awww, shucks.

After reading this, now I gotta add another project to the list.

 

[SevenDeuce]

You guys are the best!

I'm going to raise it up to 11' at the garage rear wall, and drop it to 9 at the end of the run. Should be good for a 2' drop over 16' for rain run off.

Here are some pics of what I am working with. Looks like locust or oak beams to me, plus my garage. The rear beam will now be above the windows, not touching them, still 4 bolt lagged every 4 feet.

Thanks!

 

[GeeVee]

I saw this thread post and I wanted to answer then...

If I may suggest, in PA you have heavy snow. Improvement to your dwellings ought to be ready to stand the test of time.

You didn't have enough pitch early, and I read about roll roofing, I got lost in the repsonses-

Looks like about a 1/12 rafter cut, and plumb on the tails, of course. But I also think you are spanning too far with a 2x6 as a rafter, regardless of dead load.

Are you open siding this shed/roof? Or is there a possibility of closing it in? And you're attaching to the gable wall above the window line? Along the wall plate or is it balloon framed to the peak? Either way, It doesn't cost much to post support your beam that holds the rafters. You could consider how hard it might be to find the siding to match the beveled lap. How old is it? 75 years? I've been know to take that siding off that wall and move it to the new wall and gable, and match the front and back. Consider adding the square footage in like style. Match the rafter cuts and extend the peak with post supported and the 2x6 will be better utilized. Dont be afraid of carpentry for a few angle cuts, especially when you can find a pattern right in front of you.

A better view of the site and its characteristics would tell me if you want to cobble something up. or plan on phased work producing a value added product. I could help you out reusing the wood well, which is the best part.

Reduce reuse recycle.

 

[aandabooks]

Are you going to miss the light from the windows inside the garage? I would suggest 4X4s up the side of the garage for the ledger board to sit on, rather than lagged into the garage above the windows. This would make it a more independent structure next to the existing and would reduce the chance of pulling that wall out of the garage if the roof were to collapse under a heavy snow load.

 

[SevenDeuce]

I'd personally like something that'll last.

These rafters are from an old barn, probably at least 50 years. They were at a much deeper slope than I want, and one end was at the the peak, the other was resting on the outside wall of the barn, so all the weight was supported by them in the winter, distributed over the entire length. they were spaced 2' OC as you can see in the one picture I put up.

I have that whole side that you see, plus half the other side, about 37 lengths. I'm not afraid to buy materials now, as these lengths knocked about 90% off my budget. I'm not afraid to cut them either. I want to add a circulation fan or two on the roof for faster drying. I'll be drying oak this summer, and hope it's dry for this winter.

I'll get a picture of the area I want to put the shed. I do want to let it breath, but would like to have it enclosed. I was thinking to put boards outside spaced 2-3" from each other, and then on the inside doing the same thing but having the inside boards spanning over the outside space, produces flow of air, but keeps the rain from coming in.

I'll take any suggestions.

Thanks,

Abe