Buy a Poulan?

[samarsenault]

If you were me what would you do:

I cut about 2 cords of wood a year for my own personal use. Never more than about 20 inch diameter but usually less than 10 inches. Mostly Maple also some spruce.

I don't have a huge budget and was wondering if either of these saws from the sears catalog are worth dropping my birthday money on:

1. Poulan 33cc 16inch $150

2. Poulan Pro 42 or 43 cc 18 inch comes with extra chain, and file and guide $220

I also have an old Husky 444 I posted about here with NO compression whatsoever, a few scuff marks around the outside of the piston. This is fixable but I'm worried if I do fix it it's still going to be trouble based on the saw's age, drive sproket, pull cord, or whatever could still all ruin a day in the woods for me.

I'm leaning towards buying the Poulan Pro. If I plan to store it over the winter months what can I do to prevent the carberator from getting gummed up? Run fuel stabilizer? Drain the tank? Let it run dry? I realize Poulan is NO WHERE near the saw a husky or stihl is but I think they're out of my price range especially since I only use it a few days per year.

Let me know what you think.

 

[Elmore]

Look for a Makita DCS401. You can find them in hardware stores or building supply stores etc.. It runs for about $260 to $289.00 and it's German made...Dolmar. Or look for the same saw at a Dolmar dealer if you can find one. I think it weighs about 8 lbs. I'd like to have one. If you do get a Poulan steer clear of a Wild Thing. I was talking to a guy at a Stihl shop today about his Wood Shark. It was being serviced by the shop. What for I don't know but the fella said that for a hundred bucks it has been worth it. He said that he has had good service from it. I have a few Poulan saws. Two 2000 models and a gray 2250 that says Craftsman on the side. They work well for inexpensive saws. On the 2250 ( 36cc ), I just dressed my bar with a file, put a new 91VG chain on, removed the limiter caps and adjusted the carb to run on 32:1 Mobil synthetic mix and it runs better than ever. If I could work a deal I would get a Makita DCS401 though. I spoke with another fella in the area today who broke up his ankle with a tree. He has a Huskie 394XP, like new, that he'll take $400.00 or b.o.. Sounds like a good deal but I really don't need a 94cc saw that weighs over 17.5 lbs.
Also you might want to avoid the Intenz bars. I don't like them.

 

[computeruser]

Some will suggest that the PoulanPro is marginally better than other saws in that class and price range. My experience has been that it is a real hit-or-miss thing, some cheap saws always work and others never do. The real problem with the cheap saws, though, is that you can't get parts for 'em when you need 'em.

For your uses, you might be better off picking up a better quality used saw. I got a used Stihl 026Pro a while back for a little over $200 shipped to my door. It has been a flawless performer and is far and away a better saw than either of the saws you mentioned.

 

[fubar2]

Ask whoever it is that give you your birthday present if they would consider adopting me. Seems like all i ever get is a flannel shirt. I would try to go with a better name saw even if it meant buying a used one.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I dont know why everyone says to avoid the Poulan Wild Thing...

I love mine, it is light, and reliable. Runs well, quiet, good power, good on fuel.

Ive worked on a number of Poulan Pro's, and they are good saws, but they are alittle heavy to me.

If you keep up a Wild Thing, they are good saws, and should last a few years. Only problem, same as most lower tier brands is the Fuel line goes after a few years. No big deal. Count on an Oiler Pump after a season or 2.

If you keep oil in it, the pumps can last a long long time, but people tend to run them dry, which eats em up.

I dont know if youve heard about it or not..but some Home Depots have this deal where they sell Their Makita saws after they've been rented a few times...Pretty inexpensive too.

Going price is around 200 dollars, most appear to be like new, and seem to run well. Might to a search on the Makita DCS6401 I think is the model...

 

[Elmore]

RED-85-Z51, your Wild thing is the exception. I've been using my sisters...it says Craftsman but is a Wildthing. When it runs it is fine but is hard to start especially when it gets warm. If it were mine I would see about removing the limiter caps and get it on Mobil1. The saws at HD are Makita DCS6401. A good deal indeed. A bit heavy for the output...but I have never ran one. That's just what I hear. I have a Makita DCS520i...same as a Dolmar 111i. Like new may not even be broken in yet. I am pleased with Dolmar quality and price. With Makita you get a nice blue colored saw too.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

My Limiter caps are long gone. When I first got it, I ran it extra Rich to break it in, then I gradually leaned it out so I had good speed, and throttle response.

I can pull it out of the case, prime it 5 times, pull the choke out, pull it once, Twice, and it catches..I pull it Wide open, and push the choke in simultaneously..then back to idle for 45 seconds or so.

Hot, I just turn it on, and give it a quick yank and it cranks right up. I always turn it off when I sit it down, otherwise it pumps a puddle of oil out.

Ive got a larger Poulan..A 2750 or something like that...It was always hard to start..ran bad, then the mounting bolts for the engine stripped out and it ate the starter up..and messed some other stuff up...A real pain!

The Wild Thing is a sweet saw.

I run Poulan Bar oil or Shindaiwa Bar oil in it, And in the gas, I run Oregon Smokeless, Ashless Power Equipment oil. I mix it 32:1

 

[Just Mow]

Try a STIHL MS 210 with 16 inch bar and 2 hp for $249.00
Good saw for this price range.

 

[Elmore]

Adjusting a Poulan carb

When adjusting the carb after removing the limiter caps, the typical 1 full turn out doesn't work. At least not on my 2250. I had to turn them out significantly more than 1 turn. In getting it to 4 stroke it wasn't as simple as with my Makita but I achieved the burble without burning up the engine and it now runs strong and cuts well for an inexpensive light little saw. I think that it cost about $99.00 at Sears in 1997. It was a gift and they say don't look a gift horse in the mouth...not for at least a few years anyway.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

When adjusting the carb after removing the limiter caps, the typical 1 full turn out doesn't work. At least not on my 2250. I had to turn them out significantly more than 1 turn. In getting it to 4 stroke it wasn't as simple as with my Makita but I achieved the burble without burning up the engine and it now runs strong and cuts well for an inexpensive light little saw. I think that it cost about $99.00 at Sears in 1997. It was a gift and they say don't look a gift horse in the mouth...not for at least a few years anyway.

As I recall, mine is a 2005 model.

An older Gent bought it new, and wasnt strong enough to pull the rope (new with lots of compression) so it wasnt ever used. Heck, the Spare Chain, bottle of engine oil, and Scrench were still i nthe sealed bag.

I paid 35 dollars for it, with the case, little bag, and everything.

It gets a full cleanup after every use, and would pass off as new right now.

 

[Marco]

normally I'd go on my XL12 rant here, but after reading the OPs profile and seeing he was interested in powerlifting, a bowsaw and a sharp double bit is really not that unreasonable. Wisconsin's inexhaustible whitepine supply was did in with crosscuts and axes for those that doubt my idea.

 

[samarsenault]

That's a good point marco. I have both the tools you mentioned in my dad's barn at the cottage. Being a Powerlifter maybe I should get off my lazy butt and do some real work for a change.

For someone like me who's going to use the chainsaw say twice a month in the summer and never in the winter is it even okay to buy a saw or is that just asking for trouble? I have a 3HP Poulan Electric saw already the only reason I don't just use it is that a gas saw is SO good for putting a stupid little smirk on my face. That and a reasonable sized extension cord doesn't reach into my woods. Being an engineer I have concerns over putting too many cords together - before you know it you've got a big voltage drop through the cord and the saw will draw extra current to start and possibly burn itself out.

No one has said much about rebuilding the top end on my husky 444?

Just wondering if MAYBE the reason for some of Poulan's bad wrap is that some people who buy them (through no fault of their own) have never learned much about small engines and treat them badly. For example someone who says it ran great the first year but they couldn't start it the next season might just be using year old gas and have a carburator bowl full of water. Or the fellow who says he doesn't need to use bar oil because he's only cutting a few branches today wonders why his oil pump died. Not trying to insult people who aren't into mechanical devices but just suggesting that most people who would buy a stihl of husky would probably know better than that.

 

[computeruser]

Just wondering if MAYBE the reason for some of Poulan's bad wrap is that some people who buy them (through no fault of their own) have never learned much about small engines and treat them badly. For example someone who says it ran great the first year but they couldn't start it the next season might just be using year old gas and have a carburator bowl full of water. Or the fellow who says he doesn't need to use bar oil because he's only cutting a few branches today wonders why his oil pump died. Not trying to insult people who aren't into mechanical devices but just suggesting that most people who would buy a stihl of husky would probably know better than that.

That's surely part of it. There is a certain irony to the fact that the saws targeted at the least-skilled section of the population require the most tinkering to keep 'em going.

You know, I may buy a Poulan WildThing one of these days and see how long I can keep it running as my loaner saw. Might make for an interesting experiment.

 

[Woodie]

Here's a rook's opinion:

I would rather pluck out my eyeballs with a shrimp fork than own a Craftsman/Poulan again. Couldn't keep the chain under tension, wouldn't hot start for all the tea in China. No acceleration, had to continuously feather the throttle to keep it going. Mine was a 42cc model with an 18" bar that it wouldn't pull from the beginning. I thought about taking it in to Sears to have it worked on, but decided that would be throwing good money after bad. I just wanted the saw gone.

It's carcass brought me a $125 discount off the (mfgr list) price of a new Jonsered 2159.

The others here will have far better advice than I will as to a good AND inexpensive saw, so I won't offer any.

But like so many others, I learned my lesson the hard way...there's a reason why they're called Crapsman.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

You should stay away from the low end homeowner saws, like Poulan or Craftsman and shoot for a high end homeowner saw/ low end commercial saw, like: Echo, Dolmar, Makita, ect.
If price is problem, a good used saw should be easy to find in your price range, I'll bet there are some guys on this site that could set you right up.

 

[Cut4fun]

There are good and bad ones made by all companys. So just research your purchase first. Just check into the model you are wanting before buying. Nothing wrong with the RIGHT Poulan.

As you can see I am not picky about brands. Each one has their best in each class of saw IMO.

Also I might cut a few saws from the stable. I might cut ties with the Poulan pro 305 49cc and Poulan pro 220 38cc, havent decided yet. They have been 100% dependable and working order in my summer work of cutting up my barn. I have just added to more saws in that class and hard to justify having 4 of the same size saws.

 

[samarsenault]

Yes I have talked to a guy I know who runs a small engine shop and a neighbor who moved here after retiring from the logging business in BC. They both said a good used Stihl of Husqvarna around here will sell for 300$. They both also said they think the Poulans are not too bad considering you could get one for 150$ new.

I talked to a local guy who does a lot of saw repairs for pro cutters in the area (we have a small softwood lumber industry on PEI) and he said he has USED top ends for my Husqvarna saw. I am sceptical of a USED piston, what does everyone think about that?

 

[Woodie]

There are good and bad ones made by all companys. So just research your purchase first. Just check into the model you are wanting before buying. Nothing wrong with the RIGHT Poulan.
As you can see I am not picky about brands. Each one has their best in each class of saw IMO.

Funny thing, while I was waiting for the Jonsered Bag-It-Drag-It sale to start, I borrowed my neighbor's 26-year-old Poulan top handle, looked like a cross between the two green ones in the front of your picture. Said XXV on the top. Watched him pour motor oil in the bar resevoir before he handed it to me. For all I know, his two-stroke oil may have been bacon grease.

Not a piece of plastic on that thing, I believe it may have been an all-magnesium case. Ran like a scalded dog. My brand-new Jed won't accelerate as quickly as it. Hell of a sweet saw, that one was. No chain brake on it, though, and a top handle to boot...you better believe I watched my butt the whole time I used it.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Funny thing, while I was waiting for the Jonsered Bag-It-Drag-It sale to start, I borrowed my neighbor's 26-year-old Poulan top handle, looked like a cross between the two green ones in the front of your picture. Said XXV on the top. Watched him pour motor oil in the bar resevoir before he handed it to me. For all I know, his two-stroke oil may have been bacon grease.

Not a piece of plastic on that thing, I believe it may have been an all-magnesium case. Ran like a scalded dog. My brand-new Jed won't accelerate as quickly as it. Hell of a sweet saw, that one was. No chain brake on it, though, and a top handle to boot...you better believe I watched my butt the whole time I used it.

I got one of them. Poulan Micro XXV.

I use bar oil in mine, and it works great. Good lightweight saw, very reliable. Kill switch is finicky, and wont kill it every time...but its a great saw for its size and weight. I pull a 16" bar no problem.

As for the people who bash the Wildthing...MY neighbor has one that he used after IVAN, he cut up just about every tree he had that fell (22 trees) that varied from Pine to Oak, to pecan. Some oaks he had to call a pro to get cut up, simply bacause they were 3 feet across, and at a bad angle.

I replaced the Oiler pump when he ran some weird thick bar oil in it, and it burnt the pump. Pump costed 7-8 dollars, and took 25 minutes to install.

I know people who have bought them, and dont know how to adjust the carbs to their conditions..The Factory setting will get you darn close, but it will usually need a little twaeking out the box.

I saw a friend of the family using a 40cc poulan one day and it wouldnt start hot, it was hard to start to begin with, and it had no throttle response. You had to baby it up to speed, even then it had no torque.

I adjusted it richer on the top, and bottom, and raised the base Idle, and it worked perfectly. Just like my Wild Thing does.

Remember..If you punch the throttle, and it falls on its face, you are lean. Lean = Bad:hmm3grin2orange:

People bash the Weed Eater Brand trimmers alot...But look at them. They cost 70-90 dollars, start good for a long time, and do their job well. My dad has one that is...gotta be 7 years old, and it works great. It isnt an echo, or a Shinny, but he didnt pay the echo or shinny price either.

 

[Cut4fun]

Xx

That first little poulan in the pic you guys refered too as a xxv is a XX 20 not the xxv like the ones you guys are talking about. Just for info purposes. I think it was only made for 3-4 years by poulan. It was just a hair over 30cc and was a little screamer. Here is info from mikes site on the XX.
http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...ae246e47416ddc0588256bfc000d0cc0?OpenDocument