cabling or bracing

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Juliano

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 30, 2008
Messages
40
Reaction score
1
Location
Ontario
A client has a large silver maple, that she wants to save rather than remove, the tree has included bark and the seam is slowly separating. ( a branch on one side is now resting on the power line (which i will remove) any way there is a few inches of gap between the two stems at the top of the included bark.

I have quite a bit of rigging equipment and i remember someone teaching me a way of cinching or bringing the stems back together then cabling or bracing them to keep them that way.

Im almost strictly a removal and pruning guy but I have done 2 cobra cable jobs.

I have enough cobra cable to install on the tree

to make it more clear the tree has 3 main stems (on one of which is the incuded bark that is seperating). I plan to install the cobra cable in a box pattern.

can i bring the splitting shared bark ridge back together, and which tools do i use?

ive already told the homeowner about the defect and she will sign the liability waiver as ive made it clear its not guaranteed to prevent failure only to enhance the possibility of the tree having a few more years.
 
I wouldn't go for a cobra, I would use a steel cable with thru bolt eyes. If there is a visible defect failure is imminent. Cobra is only designed to dynamically limit movement, so crotchs won't fail,while still allowing the tree to retain and build additional stength. This tree is already begining to fail at the crotch. Go steel

Corey
 
I wouldn't go for a cobra, I would use a steel cable with thru bolt eyes. If there is a visible defect failure is imminent. Cobra is only designed to dynamically limit movement, so crotchs won't fail,while still allowing the tree to retain and build additional stength. This tree is already begining to fail at the crotch. Go steel

Corey
x2
 
I'd just rig up a 3 to 1 up high where you are going to install the cable. Pull it together, lock it off and put the cobra in place. In your situation I'd recommend removal before steel but to each their own. Many old timers on here will go on for hours about how ####ty the cobra system is. They may be right. They may be wrong. My feelings are if the cobra can't handle the weight or the dynamics and steel is required the tree should probably come down.
 
sounds like a brace rod is needed. buy the directions--the BMPs--$8.--so you know wtf you are doing.

don't count on advice here esp w no pics
 
Don't use cobra , use steel .... If the trees gonna break for sure would you trust a bungee cord .... And don't pull it together with the cable it only there for when the tree breaks to buy some time a tight cable is as bad as no cable at all , it'll just break above the cable , through bolts and washers , no lags they may tear out, and they follow the angle of the cable good luck ....
 
Last edited:
make sure you put in the waiver that cabling could worsen the problem and cause failure
 
make sure you put in the waiver that cabling could worsen the problem and cause failure

Explain please. I have done dozens and would never put that in.

Following standards removes this concern.

Would you hire someone who told you they may be worsening what you are paying them to fix?

:dizzy:
 
I have to agree with Seer.....If you are asking & un sure?????..good luck!

BTW.......it will not matter if you state it was at the customers request...I just found this out the hard way!! Do it right or not at all...!!!




LXT......................
 
Don't use cobra , use steel .... If the trees gonna break for sure would you trust a bungee cord .... And don't pull it together with the cable it only there for when the tree breaks to buy some time a tight cable is as bad as no cable at all , it'll just break above the cable , through bolts and washers , no lags they may tear out, and they follow the angle of the cable good luck ....

Get with the times 101, Cobra Cabling has a higher breaking strength then then the extra high strength 3/8 static cable. Dynamic cabling is stronger and easy to install. It can be adjusted and dosent damage the tree.Why are so many of you set on static cabling.
 
Get with the times 101, Cobra Cabling has a higher breaking strength then then the extra high strength 3/8 static cable. Dynamic cabling is stronger and easy to install. It can be adjusted and dosent damage the tree.Why are so many of you set on static cabling.

I say strength is a bunk argument, I've seen 3' diameter codominant stemmed oaks hung off 1/4" cable, as in.......5-6' diameter trunk, cable installed correctly in the canopy, crotch failed as a result of serious decay and 60+mph winds, snapped off nearly at the ground, 85' of oak, 3' diameter at the bottom held up simply by a 1/4" cable into 8" wood.

I think the reasoning behind static cabling in this case is that the crotch is ALREADY FAILING, as in, you do not want it moving, further compounding the problem. We have no pictures to go on, but I"ve pulled together some good sized crotches with a few eye slings and a 2 ton come along, cable the top together, and "zip" the split together with through-rods in the crotch.
 
I say strength is a bunk argument, I've seen 3' diameter codominant stemmed oaks hung off 1/4" cable, as in.......5-6' diameter trunk, cable installed correctly in the canopy, crotch failed as a result of serious decay and 60+mph winds, snapped off nearly at the ground, 85' of oak, 3' diameter at the bottom held up simply by a 1/4" cable into 8" wood.

I think the reasoning behind static cabling in this case is that the crotch is ALREADY FAILING, as in, you do not want it moving, further compounding the problem. We have no pictures to go on, but I"ve pulled together some good sized crotches with a few eye slings and a 2 ton come along, cable the top together, and "zip" the split together with through-rods in the crotch.

I agree the last thing you want is more movement in a failing union. I think cabling should be a preventive measure to begin with, once the stem shows signs of separation and there are serious targets it's time for removal.
My comment was more about the perceived weakness in dynamic cabling,it has it flaws but strength is not one of them.
 
Get with the times 101, Cobra Cabling has a higher breaking strength then then the extra high strength 3/8 static cable. Dynamic cabling is stronger and easy to install. It can be adjusted and dosent damage the tree.Why are so many of you set on static cabling.

I do trust the history of the steel cable , your right and I am familiar with its installation in large trees , now for trees such as BRADFORD pears and small ornamental maples the cobra system has a home , but in large applications cables and even chains are my tool of choice , when I leave that tree I can be fairly certain that if that tree part fails that it will be still hanging there when I arrive.. Last year I removed a large silver maple that had two 3/8 chains installed over thirty years ago and they were still there strong and in there original place , can you say that rubber would be as reliable
 
Last edited:
Taking the cable off in the future is not going to happen is it? It can't, right? I would think it is too risky to ever trust it can support its own weight.

I'd say prices play a major part in this decision. The cable or chain looks more haphazard, but the cost to both parties probably looks perfect. Paint it green, and expect to be called back by the time the tree is being strangled by the thing. Replace it then.

The Cobra looks pro on a tree. It costs more, but maybe they don't care. When that has to be adjusted, it's simpler. I recall that being self adjusting to a degree, so it must be cheaper then for the client. They don't have to pay for a trip out there for even longer if the thing is adjusting itself by any degree.
 
Taking the cable off in the future is not going to happen is it? It can't, right? I would think it is too risky to ever trust it can support its own weight.

I'd say prices play a major part in this decision. The cable or chain looks more haphazard, but the cost to both parties probably looks perfect. Paint it green, and expect to be called back by the time the tree is being strangled by the thing. Replace it then.

The Cobra looks pro on a tree. It costs more, but maybe they don't care. When that has to be adjusted, it's simpler. I recall that being self adjusting to a degree, so it must be cheaper then for the client. They don't have to pay for a trip out there for even longer if the thing is adjusting itself by any degree.

Stop ......How many cables have you seen? And how does a through bolt strangle a tree ? Sometimes its OK to not snort the entire line .... Or empty the entire meth pipe .....
 
Taking the cable off in the future is not going to happen is it? It can't, right? I would think it is too risky to ever trust it can support its own weight.

I'd say prices play a major part in this decision. The cable or chain looks more haphazard, but the cost to both parties probably looks perfect. Paint it green, and expect to be called back by the time the tree is being strangled by the thing. Replace it then.

The Cobra looks pro on a tree. It costs more, but maybe they don't care. When that has to be adjusted, it's simpler. I recall that being self adjusting to a degree, so it must be cheaper then for the client. They don't have to pay for a trip out there for even longer if the thing is adjusting itself by any degree.

If it's not going to removed, which I suggest, depending on the targets, this tree has long passed a possible dynamic solution. You need steel, cable , and letting the client know it is not a gaurantee. Think of Dynamic as a cool dream. A co-dom Oak on a golf course that has a mushroom in the crotch. Maybe dynamic and monitor, but no gaurantee. I like the Cobra and have used it, but not to keep a tree from failing.
Jeff :)
 
Back
Top