Fast, effective, poison ivy/climbing vine killer?

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Want some seeds to plant?

I nuke that stuff on sight.

I've got "civilized" roses around the house.
Actually, yes, I'd love some seeds.

I have a large one growing at the end of the driveway, first year I didn't cut it down, and it was gorgeous in bloom! Every day I walked to the mailbox I picked a sprig of blooms to bring inside.
There's another one in the front yard, too, also first year I didn't cut it back and it's humongous.
I have three very small ones I spotted in the yard, I guess deposited by birds. They say they love the rose hips.
 
Actually, yes, I'd love some seeds.

I have a large one growing at the end of the driveway, first year I didn't cut it down, and it was gorgeous in bloom! Every day I walked to the mailbox I picked a sprig of blooms to bring inside.
There's another one in the front yard, too, also first year I didn't cut it back and it's humongous.
I have three very small ones I spotted in the yard, I guess deposited by birds. They say they love the rose hips.
These grow wild around here, and I think they are pretty cool.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosa_rugosa
 
I :heart: the multiflora rose. Sweetest smelling rose on the planet. Good for wildlife, too.

Some more thoughts on multiflora. It and barberry make great tick habitat.

If you want to make a hedgerow to keep people out, plant multiflora and the vining type of poison ivy together.
 
Some more thoughts on multiflora. It and barberry make great tick habitat.

If you want to make a hedgerow to keep people out, plant multiflora and the vining type of poison ivy together.
:laugh: I looked up the four you mentioned in your previous post, including the barberry. One of them it said the berries are toxic to even birds. That's why I didn't scold you for torching them.
Still, I love the multiflora roses. 👍
I do spot spray the poison ivy when I see it - and I did see some this year I need to spray. I don't need much, I get the small spray bottle at the hardware store. Don't recall what the brand is. I spray/soak the leaves early in the morning on a hot sunny day with no rain in the forecast. It works, but it always seems to pop back up somewhere else.

Unfortunately, the multiflora and PI thicket border won't keep out what I want to keep out.:(
But I am building a "Berlin Wall" between me and the corn/soy fields so at least I don't have to look at it.:havingarest:
 
:laugh: I looked up the four you mentioned in your previous post, including the barberry. One of them it said the berries are toxic to even birds. :havingarest:

"Dispersal
Japanese barberry spreads by both seed and vegetative means. Its berries—available to birds and mammals from summer through winter, including late winter when many other fruits have already been eaten—are eaten and spread to new areas in animal droppings. Individual plants can spread horizontally by a process called layering, in which roots form when branches are in contact with the ground. New plants created in this way will survive being severed from the parent plant, but are genetically identical."

"Human Health Concerns

Recent studies have documented a relationship between Japanese barberry and deer ticks (Ixodes scapularis). The tick's affinity for barberry may relate to the favorable niche space created by the plant's growth form or architecture, which is very different from most native shrubs. Since barberry is a low, dense shrub, it creates a microclimate habitat favored by ticks, buffering extreme temperature and humidity fluctuations in comparison to relatively taller and less dense native vegetation. Animals, including the primary reservoir of Lyme, the white-footed mouse (Peromyscus leucopus), also find refuge under or around barberry, creating a higher density of Lyme-infected ticks. Additionally, the low stature of barberry provides abundant opportunities for ticks to come in contact with humans or other animals."

https://extension.psu.edu/japanese-barberry
 
"Dispersal
Japanese barberry spreads by both seed and vegetative means. Its berries—available to birds and mammals from summer through winter, including late winter when many other fruits have already been eaten—are eaten and spread to new areas in animal droppings. Individual plants can spread horizontally by a process called layering, in which roots form when branches are in contact with the ground. New plants created in this way will survive being severed from the parent plant, but are genetically identical."

"Human Health Concerns

Recent studies have documented a relationship between Japanese barberry and deer ticks (Ixodes scapularis). The tick's affinity for barberry may relate to the favorable niche space created by the plant's growth form or architecture, which is very different from most native shrubs. Since barberry is a low, dense shrub, it creates a microclimate habitat favored by ticks, buffering extreme temperature and humidity fluctuations in comparison to relatively taller and less dense native vegetation. Animals, including the primary reservoir of Lyme, the white-footed mouse (Peromyscus leucopus), also find refuge under or around barberry, creating a higher density of Lyme-infected ticks. Additionally, the low stature of barberry provides abundant opportunities for ticks to come in contact with humans or other animals."

https://extension.psu.edu/japanese-barberry
It was this article I read on buckthorn..

Buckthorn: How can a shrub be so harmful?

"While birds (and sometimes mice) do eat buckthorn berries, it's often because it's the only available seed source. But buckthorn berries are not a good food source. They're low in protein and high in carbohydrates and produce a severe laxative effect in some animals. For smaller birds, the laxative effect can even be strong enough to result in death. Adding insult to injury, the excreting birds also distribute buckthorn seeds over long distances."
 
It was this article I read on buckthorn..

Buckthorn: How can a shrub be so harmful?

"While birds (and sometimes mice) do eat buckthorn berries, it's often because it's the only available seed source. But buckthorn berries are not a good food source. They're low in protein and high in carbohydrates and produce a severe laxative effect in some animals. For smaller birds, the laxative effect can even be strong enough to result in death. Adding insult to injury, the excreting birds also distribute buckthorn seeds over long distances."

It's nasty stuff.

I had a holes running my property with off road stuff. I cut down all the buckthorn on one fence line, wrapped piles with a long choke chain big as I could pull with a farm tractor, then dragged them where they got into my property.

It looked like they tried to move the piles, maybe they didn't have good /any gloves?... :clap::laugh::buttkick::ices_rofl: problem solved
 
Actually, yes, I'd love some seeds.

I have a large one growing at the end of the driveway, first year I didn't cut it down, and it was gorgeous in bloom! Every day I walked to the mailbox I picked a sprig of blooms to bring inside.
There's another one in the front yard, too, also first year I didn't cut it back and it's humongous.
I have three very small ones I spotted in the yard, I guess deposited by birds. They say they love the rose hips.

Would these be better? F multiflora!!!



Somewhat neglected plants but nice.
1 rose 2024.jpg1 rose 2024 b.jpg1 rose yello 2024.jpg1 roses 2024.jpg1 yellow rose 2024.jpg
 
Those are beautiful roses.
Honestly, I hate rose bushes because of the thorns. :laugh:
I have a very old Seven Sister rose bush, planted by my grandparents probably 100 years ago that I've cut down many times because it always snags me when I pass it on the mower. This year it bloomed better than I've ever seen it. Usually it gets a mildewy coating on the leaves, but not this year.

The multifloras have smaller thorns and more blooms... plus they smell incredibly wonderful.
 
I'm a homeowner, but occasionally do trail clearing and "tree saving" work in a local park - which brings me to my question.

There are some trees in the park which have some sort of thin climbing plants/vines (later to be thicker vines?) on them, and I'd like to remove them before they choke the tree.

The problem is that at the base of the tree there is what I *think* is poison ivy. The last time I tangled with it, I saved the tree, but lost bigtime to the ivy!

I'd be pleased to hear of any suggestions regarding how I can quickly and effectively defeat at least the poison ivy, so I can reach the tree trunk and either cut or spray the climbing vines.

Thank you!

**EDITED TO ADD**: First, thanks for all the suggestions.

*Just to be clear* - I don't want to nuke everything in the area I spray, including the trees I'm trying to save, so I'm thinking that Roundup/glyphosate isn't the way to go... but then again, there may be a targeted way to apply it safely without killing every living/growing thing in the area.
RM43 from tsc, it takes 6 ounces per gallon. its round up with a residual , that controls later stuff popping up for a few months, maybe 3 maybe 6 maybe 12 months. you can give a squirt of dawn to penetrate oily stuff. i bought a quart , tehn went back and bought 2.5 gallons. it even controls hard to kill poison hemlock.
 
A few comments:
Triclopyr has worked well for me in the past.

Glyphosate will kill poison ivy but really requires a concentration higher than ordinary weeds and grass. I would suggest 4 times the usual concentration. Buy the generic concentrate, much cheaper. Not sure if roundup even contains it anymore. Use a good squirt of Dawn as surfactant. I usually buy store brands, but original blue Dawn is worth the price. Also, if the poison ivy is in a shaded area, it will take a LONG time to kill it, since it is not as actively growing.

Wear protective clothing and mask. Yes, it does cause lymphoma. I am a retired physician and have a close female friend who used it a lot as a homeowner and developed a very rare lymphoma that is highly associated with glyphosate, and otherwise usually only seen in very elderly men.

To get access to cut a poison ivy covered tree, remove a section out of the vines at the part of the trunk you need access to. Leave the upper vines on the tree and paint the stumps of the lower vines with concentrated (usually about 40%) glyphosate. This will even kill bamboo, by the way. This must be done when the vine is actively growing, not in winter or it may not work. Come back in the winter to cut the tree.

A warning about 2,4-D: It is EXTREMELY toxic to tomatoes. Even a whiff in the air blowing over a solid fence will kill your tomatoes. I experienced this firsthand from a neighbor's yard service using pump sprayers to kill broadleafs. You can do a search to find the characteristic growth deformities specific for 2,4-D.

And that's about all I know about shrimp, Forrest.
 
A warning about 2,4-D: It is EXTREMELY toxic to tomatoes. Even a whiff in the air blowing over a solid fence will kill your tomatoes. I experienced this firsthand from a neighbor's yard service using pump sprayers to kill broadleafs. You can do a search to find the characteristic growth deformities specific for 2,4-D.

And that's about all I know about shrimp, Forrest.
👍 👍
 
Here's my 3 cents (inflation): My father is pretty obsessed with gardening/growing things in general. For targeted killing of weeds growing near other plants he uses long rubber glove with a cloth glove over one hand wetted with whatever herbicide (usually roundup/glyphosate) and applies directly to weeds. Pretty sure he adds surfactant, probly depends on the target. He's never been much for scorched earth techniques and with careful handling minimizes exposure to the herbicide, and I know he's used this for poison ivy/oak. Not to mention johnson grass.....Pretty much any weed that can't be removed by hand. He is allergic to poison ivy and worked for him. With care, probly less exposure than via spraying. Anyhow, do as y'all will with that hope it's helpful.
 
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