Cadillac Pads

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hey guys,

you can make that upper shin pad your self. with 3 or four layers of fiber glass. that you can get at the autobody store and you can form it to your own leg shape,
To attach it to the spur you just put in 2 washer inlays in the pad and then use anut and bolt it together, and you can buy the same black rubber padding for them.
You have really solved 2-3 problems with the "cadillac" pads
1. they are really light
2. they dont stick out as far and less bulky
3. cost allot less
4. cost alot less
and did i say cost alot less

lawrence

play safe
 
sorry no pics of it
but it only cost you about 25-30 bucks for the fiberglass. and 14 bucks for the rubber pads form sherrill and thats canadian.

and thay are just as comfortable

play safe
 
Do they make schedule 80?

Mike Maas said:
If I were going to try to make my own, I'd use a hunk of 6" PVC pipe. You can cut it easy, it's cheap, and you can heat it up to form it. Then just cut it up and drill some vent holes (my legs always sweat under the rubber).
$14 bucks for a hunk of rubber sounds like way to much money. A couple of old rubber computer mouse pads would do.


Interesting idea, does anyone know if they make 6" pipe in schedule 80? Get some nice sunlight resistant grey.

Google says they do, looks like a trip to Hughes tomorrow is called for. Might be a good time to see if I can get a 6" to 1.5" reducer. Need a case for my pole saw. :angel:
 
Well, I had to hammer em in, but they fit. I stomped around on a pole, and they felt awesome. Dam, I shoulda gotten these a long time ago. I'm curious how long the glue holds the foam to the frame.
 
Hey MB,
Are you the guy in the commercial I once saw holding a small sledge hammer and saying, "We'll make it fit."??

Good choice on the pads. Although mine are only a few months old, I don't see any indication of the rubber even starting to come loose. Do you like them better than the velcro ones?
 
Dang, I wish they made a way to attach them. You have to DIY, even the strap. I can't believe they send them out like that. Oh well I made it work, and I still love em. :)

Any Bashlin guys out there with these? Is this how you did it? :Eye:
 
Jeez, Butch, you didn't have to do any of that "DIY" baloney to your spurs/pads. I'm using Bashlins and here's what works for me. The cast groove of the pad that aligns with the slot in the shank of the Bashlin keeps the pad on the shank when it is buckeled to your leg. It cannot come off when the strap is buckled due to the strap being seated within that valley. My caddy pads must be even looser a fit on the climber shank than yours, since you had to "hammer them on", and I have no slippage problems. As far as Mike Maas' problem with lost straps or having the pads slip off the shanks when you don't have them on, just buckle the upper strap snug, not particularly tight, down around the pad when you take them off and all stays put together fine. I know several climbers around these parts that use caddy pads, and none has needed to do anything like your bolt-on mod.

Also, it looks to me from that picture, Butch, that you drilled a pretty good sized hole through the shank of your Bashlins to bolt the pads on. If that is right, I'd be afraid of weakening the aluminum shank by doing so, though that portion is also supported by the steel adjustment sleeve and the pad itself. And didn't that leave a bolt head on the inside of the pad? Maybe you used a countersunk machine screw.

You could have used that cable tie to connect strap, pad, and spur all together...that would have done the trick without weakening the Bashlin shank. But it's done now...I hope I'm wrong about your Bashlins being weakened.

Am I out to lunch here? Any others using these pads do something similar?
 
I don't think I quite getcha, Burnham. The cads had loosened after a couple days, with nothing holding them to the shank. The strap wasn't enough to do it. I'm not worried about the hole I drilled, I think it'll be ok.
 
I guess what I am saying is nothing needs to hold the pads solidly and permanently to the shank. The pad can't slip off the shank when the strap is buckled around your calf because the strap is both through the slot on the upper side of the shank and seated down into the space between two cast ridges running aroung the outside face of the pad perpendicular to the shank (this is what I called a "groove" in my earlier post).

I and all others I know with caddy pads have been using them this way, in my case for well over 10 years. See Koa's post...seems he is too.

I'm sure you gave due consideration to the drilling of a hole in the shank, just my over-eager imagination causing me concern :rolleyes: ...but I know I wouldn't have done it ;) ...so how is it finished on the inside of the pad? Or is it not through-bolted? Maybe a self-tapping bolt, or you tapped the hole first?

None of this matters, really. You are happy with the caddy pads, and I'm glad you like them.
 
Fine, Butch. They would have moved far less than you were used to with your old velcro cinch pads, but if it makes you happy, that's good :cool: . Might even be an improvement :p .
 
Hey bro. I didn't know they were supposed to move, that's what I was trying to get away from. I dunno, maybe a little movement is a good thing? Would you like yours rigid? I'm in love so far, but I can see an advanced model that offers some more articulated movement just might be the ticket.
 
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