Call me crazy....

[tbow388]

Funny

You guys and gals are too funny.

My hats off to you all for what you do!!!

Slowp, I was talking about the guys as a funny ha ha kind of thing.

 

[Fish]

You PNW guys are just "sensitive"..................


Was that too strong?????


I apologize in advance if it was...........

I just came here to see why the poor boy has all of that flaming red/bad rep..........

We need a "dislike" button........

 

[JimiLL]

Holy cow.... such a bunch of sensitive types

All I wanted to know, is that if a tree has a decent lean to it, and its ok to drop it in that direction, whats the point in using wedges. The day I have a strait up and down soft wood or I have to make a balanced tree go one way or a leaner the other way, would be a day for wedges. Id probably use ropes, trucks or winches to pull it down. Not sure, every tree is different. I never said there was no use for wedges, that I know more than the rest of you, that im trolling , etc.

No, Im not a self taught cutter. Was taught by old timer excavators and farmers. Not Pro Fallers, but they have plenty of trees under their belts and are still walking around

Rage on.

 

[JimiLL]

Actually most of them aren't. Most of them will go out of their way to help and advise anyone who asks. Calling them douches probably won't work out real well for you. Why cut yourself off from a potential source of knowledge?

As far as your falling technique? You're self taught, aren't you?

Actually, there a quite a few on this site that dont care for the PNW attitude and grandiose self image. Ive talked with a number of them

I only started calling names when a couple chimed in with quite an obnoxious, deprecating tone. If you cant see that in their posts you need to rub some crust out of your eyes

Go on, neg rep me. I just dont know how Ill sleep at night knowing what all you cats think of me lol

 

[Oldtimer]

Every tree you cut that hits the ground without hurting you, or others....and no property damage...is a tree cut right. Everything else is just bench racing.

 

[Gologit]

Actually, there a quite a few on this site that dont care for the PNW attitude and grandiose self image. Ive talked with a number of them

I only started calling names when a couple chimed in with quite an obnoxious, deprecating tone. If you cant see that in their posts you need to rub some crust out of your eyes

Go on, neg rep me. I just dont know how Ill sleep at night knowing what all you cats think of me lol

The neg rep? You earned it.

Your first post set the tone for the responses you received. Take a deep breath, go back and read the whole thread again, and you'll see why you got the reaction you did. Once again, you earned it.

 

[Fish]

Yeah, this is my first time on this forum, I just came here to see why this guy got all of that bad rep, I need to get me some of that!!!!

As far as wedges go, I was a believer early on, and I am not a tree feller at all....... I was a physics major though, and understand using tools
to do things, so plastic felling wedges were an immediate purchase right after using a steel wedge destroyed a good chain.

Albeit, I live in Ky, and many of the experienced tree cutters around here are quite silly. Their idea of planning a tree drop is where everyone is suppoosed to run, while the cutter tells where he will chuck the chainsaw before he runs, I thought this method was hilarious, but did explain
our great saw sales numbers, and did thin the herd pretty well.

I used wedges early on, as it made great sense, and with re-evaluation, the O.P. will consider doing as well.

As far as his peeing on the Forestry electric fence, that is his own journey.

 

[RandyMac]

Actually, there a quite a few on this site that dont care for the PNW attitude and grandiose self image. Ive talked with a number of them

I only started calling names when a couple chimed in with quite an obnoxious, deprecating tone. If you cant see that in their posts you need to rub some crust out of your eyes

Go on, neg rep me. I just dont know how Ill sleep at night knowing what all you cats think of me lol

Only a few? Guess I'd better get busy on the grandiose self image thing, with the obnoxious, deprecating tone.

 

[OlympicYJ]

Actually, there a quite a few on this site that dont care for the PNW attitude and grandiose self image. Ive talked with a number of them

I only started calling names when a couple chimed in with quite an obnoxious, deprecating tone. If you cant see that in their posts you need to rub some crust out of your eyes

Go on, neg rep me. I just dont know how Ill sleep at night knowing what all you cats think of me lol

We don't have a grandiose self image... people just like to make a big deal out of things when their pet way of doing something isn't always the best way and they are made aware of that. Most logging and cutting practices from the NW/West coast work equally well on the east coast. There are some East Coast guys using Humboldt's and long bars and find them to be more productive. I'm not oh west is better than east. There are things that they do that wouldn't work out here but are an advantage to them and vice versa.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[OlympicYJ]

Hey git is there any reason you would wedge with the lean on an obvious leaner? Other than if it were windy out I was thinking maybe on say cottonwood you might to keep the kerf from pinching.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

 

[B Harrison]

I must have it all wrong too, because I haven't many reasons to cut perfectly strait trees that have nothing close to them. I suppose 90% of what I have cut or had climbers bring down has been a hazard of some kind, except for the timber we cut when I was young, but I didn't know anything then and didn't learn much about saw work, just pulling and rigging and carrying dim saws.

That is a pretty color of red!

First one I have seen that color that I noticed.

 

[Fish]

Well, even if you are out in the middle of nowhere, I am sure that many jobs would go a hel l of a lot easier if the tree you were dropping fell
where you wanted it, not just cut it and let it go just anywhere.

I would think..........

But I am no logger or cutter, just a guy that works on the damn things.........

 

[lfnh]

Call Me Crazy
But I have fallen hundreds of tress in my life (hardwood, all under 100' or so) and have never once used a wedge.

For one I dont try to fight too much which way its leaning. Two, I make my hinge cut about 1/4-2/3 the way through the tree (depending on the severity of the lean). I cut through until I feel the saw push back out of the cut, this is where the weight of the tree has shifted towards the direction I want it to fall in. Third I pull the sawe out, and make my backcut, and the tree goes over. And it has every single time, where its supposed to.

Am I doing it all that wrong really?

wow you pnw guys are real douches

ive been cutting for over 10 years, not professionally though. A lot in land clearing and construction sites. I say hundreds, who knows how many I have cut. Point it, its enough. Maybe not upto the numbers of you guys, but this isnt a pee pee measuring contest

my point was i didnt pick up a saw yesterday. Im not trying to challenge anyones manhood (how ubsurd)

And my douche comment was directed with you. I can see your not from the PNW.

I dont do commercial cutting tracts.... it doesnt really matter which way the tree falls for me. I just go the direction of the lean, 99% of the time its a obvious lean. I havent had any problems with the technique I use, nor the people who have shown me it, those of which have also cut down thousands themselves.

Id just like to hear from someone with more falling credentials than myself, that this can be a legitimate way of dropping a tree. I see some guys use wedges in these videos and such around here and I think its ridiculous with how much the tree is leaning.

Hi JimLL

Astonishing start on your first page of posts here.
Forgetting all that for the moment, I read that most of the trees are of the hardwood variety and less that 100 feet tall.
However, can you provide a range of tree diameters that you have or are falling using the technique you describe and the density of the stands you have cut in ?

It would useful to know the type of ground you are cutting on. For example: rough, rocky and steep or mostly flat. ?

What equipment you are using - saw size(s), bar length, etc. ?

Lastly, what is the intended value of the trees (saw log, firewood, grind and burn) ?

Having a some more information would be helpful in furthering this discussion.

Lee

 

[slowp]

Holy cow.... such a bunch of sensitive types

All I wanted to know, is that if a tree has a decent lean to it, and its ok to drop it in that direction, whats the point in using wedges. The day I have a strait up and down soft wood or I have to make a balanced tree go one way or a leaner the other way, would be a day for wedges. Id probably use ropes, trucks or winches to pull it down. Not sure, every tree is different. I never said there was no use for wedges, that I know more than the rest of you, that im trolling , etc.

No, Im not a self taught cutter. Was taught by old timer excavators and farmers. Not Pro Fallers, but they have plenty of trees under their belts and are still walking around

Rage on.

Lesson number 1: How will you get a truck/excavator/winch/ropes up to trees on this slope? This is fairly close to the road, maybe a mere 400 feet away, slope average would be around 70%ish, there is no road at the top. It was a thinning (Partial Cut) and a skyline yarding system pulling logs downhill to the road was used. To add to the fun meter, there was quite a bit of old blowdown here and there. Now, think about getting a truck or tractor up to pull over your tree that needs to go so the butt end is facing the yarder corridor (where the logs will go down the hill). Explain please.

View attachment 266997

 

[JimiLL]

Hi JimLL

Astonishing start on your first page of posts here.
Forgetting all that for the moment, I read that most of the trees are of the hardwood variety and less that 100 feet tall.
However, can you provide a range of tree diameters that you have or are falling using the technique you describe and the density of the stands you have cut in ?

It would useful to know the type of ground you are cutting on. For example: rough, rocky and steep or mostly flat. ?

What equipment you are using - saw size(s), bar length, etc. ?

Lastly, what is the intended value of the trees (saw log, firewood, grind and burn) ?

Having a some more information would be helpful in furthering this discussion.

Lee

Wow a reply that may actually be helpful!

Tree I cut are anywhere from inches up to around 3ft in diameter..... I have dropped some big trees that required going to both sides with a 32" bar.

That bar goes on an MS 460, upgraded oiler and MM. Almost all the ground I cut on flat, and I take time to move any debris that could block my exit strategy. No terribly dense places I cut, but there are always trees within distance of the one im falling.

All the trees I drop are for firewood. So Im not really worried if it fractures up the middle. I definitely can understand the value of dropping a tree on a certain side if it is going to mill.


Thanks

 

[RandyMac]

I like big butts and I can not lie
You other brothers can't deny

 

[JimiLL]

Lesson number 1: How will you get a truck/excavator/winch/ropes up to trees on this slope? This is fairly close to the road, maybe a mere 400 feet away, slope average would be around 70%ish, there is no road at the top. It was a thinning (Partial Cut) and a skyline yarding system pulling logs downhill to the road was used. To add to the fun meter, there was quite a bit of old blowdown here and there. Now, think about getting a truck or tractor up to pull over your tree that needs to go so the butt end is facing the yarder corridor (where the logs will go down the hill). Explain please.

View attachment 266997

Well, i prob. wouldnt even attempt a tree like that. Theres nothing like these circumstances I have around here, but...

I take it you would be clearing from the bottom of the hill up, so you would obviously be dropping it strait downhill.

Since I cant see the upper part of the tree, I somewhat assume it does go strait from where the picture leaves off. So, I would do a humbolt cut so the tree didnt pop off the stump and go airborne down the hill, and then finish the back cut with.... WEDGES!!!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[madhatte]

Maybe we're just too rough on tall tale tellers and overly critical wannabes.

Least the last guy TOLD a tale! 'Twas a whopper, but aren't all Fish Stories?

EDIT: Not YOU, Fish. The other "fish", as in all of them.

 

[RandyMac]

steep n deep, then goes the wedge, toss the sucker over the edge

 

[JimiLL]

The neg rep? You earned it.

Your first post set the tone for the responses you received. Take a deep breath, go back and read the whole thread again, and you'll see why you got the reaction you did. Once again, you earned it.

Ok, so I probably should have been a little more descriptive when I made my first post. I wasnt trying to tell you guys how to cut a tree, I was more offering the way I do it to hear some constructive criticism. I read it and can see how it was taken in the wrong light.

What I should have said, is there ever a time falling a tree that doesnt require a wedge? Or should you use one all the time? I know you wouldnt use a wedge on a sapling, so there is some line of threshold at play.