Can I put a 24inch bar on a Poulan Pro PR5020?

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Hi all,
I have the crazy idea of putting a 24inch bar on Poulan Pro PR5020 I only plan on use the saw with a 24 inch bar for limbing and cutting small stuff. I was thinking about using a skip tooth chain if I tried using a bar that long. I'm concerned that the saw would not be able to oil a bar that long. Considering this is a throwaway saw I would like to know if the bar would be interchangeable with other saws.

I'm more of just curious on if a 24inch bar would work or not. I'm more then likely going to put a 18inch bar on it vs the 20inch.

Hi all,
I have the crazy idea of putting a 24inch bar on Poulan Pro PR5020 I only plan on use the saw with a 24 inch bar for limbing and cutting small stuff. I was thinking about using a skip tooth chain if I tried using a bar that long. I'm concerned that the saw would not be able to oil a bar that long. Considering this is a throwaway saw I would like to know if the bar would be interchangeable with other saws.

I'm more of just curious on if a 24inch bar would work or not. I'm more then likely going to put a 18inch bar on it vs the 20inch.
20220903_075928.jpg20220903_075928.jpgbeen running this 24 on my new 4218 for about 5 cords so far no problems, it honestly cuts and oils the bar good, had to drill new oiling holes, air intake mod, muffler mod, ngk plug and tunned the carb a little shell hit 12 grand and its not lean, have a 2050 on the way that will be getting a 28
 
been running this 24 on my new 4218 for about 5 cords so far no problems, it honestly cuts and oils the bar good, had to drill new oiling holes, air intake mod, muffler mod, ngk plug and tunned the carb a little shell hit 12 grand and its not lean, have a 2050 on the way that will be getting a 28
I see an old thread has been re-visited. So how well does that saw pull a 24" bar in 42" of Oak or any wood actually....
 
Pulls the full bar barried in iron wood, have cut down 4 trees now over 24 inch and it has em all down in less than a minute

Well 4 trees over 24 inches in less than 60 seconds. Heck that must be the next Timbersports saw.
Nope but i think it dose run this bar pretty damb good for what it is, just cuttin our own firewood and just having fun, i treat it half decent and dont push it to much just let it eat away
 
You know, I was cutting up an Oak in the woods and rocked the 20” on my MS290. I’d already converted it from.325 to 3/8. My MS660 had the 36” bar and mill on it. So I grabbed the 25” for the 660 and put it on the 290. It pulled just fine in the 18” wood, so I kept going. It got the whole log bucked up, last cuts the tip just poking through the other side. Sure, it did it just fine. Maybe I’ll try it with the 36”, make a video bucking up a big log? Tell all the Harry Homeowners they can save a thousand bucks over a new 661.
 
Cracks me up how when people want to tell how rough and tough their saws are they tell how it eats “Ironwood”. Ironwood is a small understory tree reaching 59’ with an ABH diameter of 8-20”. It has a hard dense wood, “not steel”, often used in tool handles. Such as hammers, wooden mallets, gouges, chisels, and screw drivers. Not to be found in HD tools. Very similar in description to an American Dogwood. I guess I could use the 45” on my Homelite Super 1050 to cut down Dogwoods, but dang that thing is loud and heavy.
 
View attachment 1019551View attachment 1019551been running this 24 on my new 4218 for about 5 cords so far no problems, it honestly cuts and oils the bar good, had to drill new oiling holes, air intake mod, muffler mod, ngk plug and tunned the carb a little shell hit 12 grand and its not lean, have a 2050 on the way that will be getting a 28
It's a 42cc saw, no one is buying that thing is adequate to pull a 24" bar in soft wood let alone hard wood. the logs you have your saw sitting on are 10" or under in size. Doesn't matter how long the bar is if it's not being used. Put up some videos of it cutting.
 
I just got a Poulan 5020 saw in for repair work. The owner received it for free from the guy who bought it. The engine runs OK, but even though his two chain loops are hardly used, neither one works well with the bar because they jam up. Looks like the chains flew off and the DLs are burred up and won't track well with the bar grooves.

I think I can repair it and make the new owner happy. Local repair shops wanted a Ben Franklin up front. I would never mount a 24" bar on this saw, even if one were available. The 20" bar is an absolute max for a 50 cc stock engine.,
 
I just got a Poulan 5020 saw in for repair work. The owner received it for free from the guy who bought it. The engine runs OK, but even though his two chain loops are hardly used, neither one works well with the bar because they jam up. Looks like the chains flew off and the DLs are burred up and won't track well with the bar grooves.

I think I can repair it and make the new owner happy. Local repair shops wanted a Ben Franklin up front. I would never mount a 24" bar on this saw, even if one were available. The 20" bar is an absolute max for a 50 cc stock engine.,
I had a friend give me 3 bars off his old 039. My MS290 came with 3/8LP, so I put a standard 3/8 sprocket on it and could run the 20" bars he gave me. One day I rocked the chain and was too close to finishing up, and too tired to sharpen the chain. I needed a longer bar and had the mill on my 660. I grabbed the 25" bar for the 660 and put it on the MS290. I was surprised it pulled the bar well. So, if the bars are compatible, yes it will work. Now, I don't dog my saws, and I run them razor sharp. It sounds like your guy doesn't take that care. If you put an overly long bar on it, and he's used to just pushing harder when the saw is dull, you could be looking at killing the saw. Will it work, probably. Should you do it, I don't know?
 
I discovered the reason why the chains would not work. As expected, they were damaged during a throw off (fly off) and burrs were all over the cutters. I carefully ground and filed them off. Now the chains are fine. Likely they were running too loose and that led to the fly off.

However the time required to remove all those burrs was three times as long as it would take to simply make a new chain loop. It's amazing what we will do to recycle parts.
 
I discovered the reason why the chains would not work. As expected, they were damaged during a throw off (fly off) and burrs were all over the cutters. I carefully ground and filed them off. Now the chains are fine. Likely they were running too loose and that led to the fly off.

However the time required to remove all those burrs was three times as long as it would take to simply make a new chain loop. It's amazing what we will do to recycle parts.
I call that collage.. learned a lesson and it cost money and or time. Still have the original chain that came with my 390xp, it's bent in a "u" and not in a good way. Let someone else run it, tree went over the wrong way and bent the bar and chain nearly in half. Lesson learned, and I keep it as a reminder to what happened that day. Collage... I got educated and I'm glad it just cost me a bar and chain.
 
I call that collage.. learned a lesson and it cost money and or time. Still have the original chain that came with my 390xp, it's bent in a "u" and not in a good way. Let someone else run it, tree went over the wrong way and bent the bar and chain nearly in half. Lesson learned, and I keep it as a reminder to what happened that day. Collage... I got educated and I'm glad it just cost me a bar and chain.
College? I believe you misspelled it twice. Not to be picky, Sean, but it took me a couple of reads to figure out what you were trying to say. I must admit (and agree with you) that I never learned in college much of anything that helped me operate a chainsaw. I studied mechanical engineering formally for five years.

Experience actually running a chainsaw meant everything to learning about them. In fact, I do not remember anyone in college back in the '60's even talking about operating a chainsaw. It is indeed amazing how times have changed!
 
College? I believe you misspelled it twice. Not to be picky, Sean, but it took me a couple of reads to figure out what you were trying to say. I must admit (and agree with you) that I never learned in college much of anything that helped me operate a chainsaw. I studied mechanical engineering formally for five years.

Experience actually running a chainsaw meant everything to learning about them. In fact, I do not remember anyone in college back in the '60's even talking about operating a chainsaw. It is indeed amazing how times have changed!
Spelling isn't a strong point for me. Never has been. Doesn't help the spell checker on my phone screws up as often as I fat finger the wrong button. Point of what I was trying to get across is, we remember the lessons that cost us something. The college reference is something my old man used to tell us. Hard lessons are like college, expensive.
 
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