Can't start my 92cc saw

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I came in this forum and posted what happened. i swear and i noticed alerts this morning and omg. brad even responded he did not buy what i was being told. i will repost, man that was one heck of a dream because i could not find it. i was reading where everyone was getting antsy. davhul asked me a question that should have alerted me, anyway

i took the saw to my dealer who also uses clones and his boss was out so the coast was clear. he looked and said the damage was done by the carb flooding excessively and washing the lube off the walls. the jug was scored looking through the exhaust port he pulled on the rope and as the piston descended it revealed larger scores to the right becoming smaller moving to the left. i paid for his time and left.

davhul felt it was more likely that my rings caused the problem after i told him what brad said.

i also said a big thanks to everyone for your help. i must be getting old faster than i knew

so the problem is solved and again thanks for your help. i ordered another kit. i will inspect everything and do a pressure test.

in dealing with me i can have some great energy and when i run into a bad patch, no one wants to post on the internet they often can't close their zipper and other things that require thumbs. so i go silent. i care i am interested, very interested. go ahead and try and pull the zipper up on your jeans without using your thumb, the thing is required.
Why buy another kit? Can you clean up the cylinder and drop new piston in it at least a set of rings? My argument earlier was how we let some projects get away from us in cost, so when I said about just changing parts out was part of that. Now that you know your cause, (which I don't agree with tell ya the truth). I'd slap that new carb on and get a $15 piston and give it another go. Tuning the carb properly and running a 32:1. Good luck.[emoji1]
 
I don't see how it's remotely possible that excess fuel caused your cylinder to score. This is not a 4-stroke where the lube comes from the sump and raw gasoline can wash it "dry". Your fuel has lube in it and plenty of it at 32:1.

IMHO, you still have no idea what happened here.

For one, you apparently have a bad carb that is flooding the saw.

Two, something else caused it to score. You have yet to identify the cause of that. It may simply be that you have a bad P&C, or, you may have an air leak.

Additionally, if the saw is scored bad enough to prevent it from starting, then you most certainly have a compression issue, previously refuted and ignored.

The only way to resolve this is to get back to the basics. You need to tear the saw down and go through out methodically, party by part, step by step. Anything less is just guessing, which is what your dealer is doing, IMHO.
 
From seeing these topend kits that was used I would look at the castings and chamfers on the ports. The one I seen had nasty burrs hanging flush with the cylinder and it would catch a ring when slid in the bore. That was on a ms250 and after cleaning it up it ran and is still running. Like brad said check everything over and a pressure/vacc test.
 
i agree with both of you.

the jug was toast in my eyes. i agree it needs to be gone over and will be. lets say it was the rings that caused the damage it had compression but starting compression was effected. I will look at everything. i ordered a cheap good kit if there is such a thing and we fix any problems and run that kit to ensure its fixed and then i will put a good kit on it.

brad i am telling you it had plenty of compression. i just gave you a fact. you guys can have varying opinions about things. he said what he said and everyone else with any knowledge is relying on my key stokes. i left there knowing that i saw a messed up cylinder. i know how it ran, it kept a tune. there are certain facts.

first thing i will do is get a pressure test and i will check each part and question everything, examine everything. thats what i took away with me yesterday
 
I too have basal joint arthritis in both thumb joints. The cartilage is worn down bone to bone. Hurts pretty bad, but it sounds like yours is way more progressed.
I'm just waiting for a three month break to get my worst one operated on.
*
On the Clone MS660, I hope they make the engine better than the throttle mechanism on the fuel tanks. I have yet to see one that works without tweeking it for an hour to get the high idle to function correctly.
 
We have had some things to adjust. Davhul just solved a big one with the adjuster. He had fun doing it. And he figured out how to improve that throttle issue. All minor challenges. Saved a bunch of money. I just lacked the experience to have known I should have thrown the jug away and bought s better one. Have you seen the cross jug?
 
I used straws slit to build up the throttle shaft. Works perfect. I get all positions. Tiny little adjustment. Except the jug kit. Not good.
 
My carb was damaged by screwing in the screw to tight I am sure.

My coil works I just did not like the color of the spark.

Many others did clean up their jugs better than mine
 
Keeping it simple is always the best answer. You had a running saw, the rings went bad, comp was affected, track down why rings went bad, problem solved. It's been suggested that these kits can have problems with the cylinder needing a little massaging to prevent the rings from hanging on poorly chamfered ports. When tearing into the saw have a critical eye as to where the damage began, kinda like a CSI investigation. Your cylinder may be saved if what you have is transfer from a melted piston, lots of posts on this subject. At the very least you may get out with just needing a new piston and rings, meteor makes a good product for around $40. Pressure, vac test, check squish, cut wood. Good luck.:cool:
 
All in all I think you Bedford has a better understanding on how the saw works after putting the kit together. Your now trouble shooting your problem and now you will learn much more. Is it a good project for a home owner or for someone as a hobby "yes". For a pro user for everyday use probably not. If someone trashes it putting it together from not knowing how to do it their not out much. Experience cost $ and these are cheap.
 
1. Check compression and condition of P&C FIRST.
2. Check the flywheel key.
3. Is it getting fuel? Is it getting too much fuel? Replace the carb with a known good one.
4. Replace the coil.

There's really nothing else involved.
At the risk of coming across too harsh, I point you to this post from the 1st page, the 4th post. I understand you have health issues. I REALLY do. I have them myself. However, I can't stress enough the importance of sticking to the basics. Anything else is guessing speculation. I hope your able to get this resolved and get your saw back in proper working order.
 
So now we have a saw, intended to be cheap, that we're replacing the coil, carb, piston, and cylinder. These saws are enticing to the beginner, but actually require a much more experienced eye to build correctly.

Yes. However the cost to learn on these may actually be cheaper than anything else.
 
The health part came up to explain the speed of my forum response and my repetitive tasks ability and nothing else. If you had said 1-4 get back to me when your done when ever that is I would have never said squat.
 
Yes. However the cost to learn on these may actually be cheaper than anything else.

Heck yeah. And of course a saw expert would not waste his time with one. But we are having a blast. I gotta admit it starting was not fun when you step back it becomes fun again
 
At the risk of coming across too harsh, I point you to this post from the 1st page, the 4th post. I understand you have health issues. I REALLY do. I have them myself. However, I can't stress enough the importance of sticking to the basics. Anything else is guessing speculation. I hope your able to get this resolved and get your saw back in proper working order.

+1 Brad. Somewhere after your post on the first page things went awry.
 

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