On my 01 Cummins I ran a piece of rubber hose down to behind the front axle. Problem solved.
On a fresh oil change of Rotella T the smell was awesome!
Carbon Remover
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On a fresh oil change of Rotella T the smell was awesome!
I've heard of pouring Seafoam or even water into the intake manifold of a running, hot engine. Supposedly the water instantly turns to steam which blows off the carbon deposits. Never tried water, but I poured Seafoam into the intake of a marine GM 350 that seemed to be developing a valve tap once. Didn't change anything that I noticed...made lots of smoke, though.
ETA: That Ring Free is also good stuff, I've used it in my outboards...
ETA: That Ring Free is also good stuff, I've used it in my outboards...
When have Engineers ever cared about after design maintenance . I witnessed engineering exploits in heavy industry worse than Nasa , and thats incredible in and of itself . I saw a Mom Pop Engineering firm Subcontracted to design a 6" × 166 " plate leveller for North American Steel Company , that would not level 1" normalized plate without kicking out the induction motor drives . Then to make matters worse during the tempered plate trial & testing phase , the water flow rates were so far off ( excessive) that the plate shattered like plate glass when they did the 1st phase simulation testing . Engineers their another breed , give me a qualified tradesman any day in the field . Actually thats what finally happened , they cut ties with subcontracting firm & reversed engineered the entire leveller with inhouse pipefitters, millwrights & electrical technicians & had it levelling 6 " normalized or heat treated armour plate within 2 weeks .
We steam cleaned naturally aspirated Detroit / Cummins & Volvo diesels with fine water mist & Muratic Acid sprayed into the air intake plenum . Only did it in emergency situations however , it got the equipment through until the next scheduled downtime maintenace period window , usually within a few days . Timing is everything in the mines & steel mills. downtime is $$$ brother !
Don't rely on sales people being honest they have a product to sell . Seafoam or MMO are much less concentrated forms of spot cleaning agents than CRC or Techtron , however are multi application solvency / lubricity cleaners within the fuel & oil systems . I have used each very successfully & proactively , rather than rely on a harsher reactive after the fact form of treatment . Anyhow good to hear the CRC worked very well for you brother !
Its what we have been doing on our Harley's since 1998 , when Rocker box over pressure was causing premature o-ring sealing failures on the covers of Evo 80 ci & Dual cam 88 ci models . The engineers decided to vent the pressure off to the air filter box via a horseshoe breather tube from the rockers to a short piece of 5/16" fuel line to the breather box & recirc these gas's or mists into the fuel charge again . Same with the crankcase ventilation , similar to the issue were discussing here . The solution was to simply vent both scenero's to atmosphere via a small vent hose & filter combination . I doubt your electronic control module would be affected at all brother , unless its was a turbo charged engine , then the sensors are more involved than on a naturally aspirated model . There would be a simple diagnostics reprogram fix either way bud , I had to reset the vacuum from 3" Hg to 5 " Hg on my Voes (Vacuum operated electrical switch) on my Dyna . It was effected a little by the open loop system , which effected acceleration initially . Much like a vacuum operated distributor advance on a automobile !
The 617 I swapped into my Yota had the intake manifold nearly carboned closed by a combination of EGR and PCV nonsense.
I tend to believe the guy. Regular seafoam has never done a damn thing for me as verified by a bore scope.DDon
Don't rely on sales people being honest they have a product to sell . Seafoam or MMO are much less concentrated forms of spot cleaning agents than CRC or Techtron , however are multi application solvency / lubricity cleaners within the fuel & oil systems . I have used each very successfully & proactively , rather than rely on a harsher reactive after the fact form of treatment . Anyhow good to hear the CRC worked very well for you brother !
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
My daily driver is a direct-injected Tacoma...it's nearing the 60k mark, which is the recommended interval for intake valve cleaning. It's good to hear a product recommended for this.
My other pickup is a Dodge 2500 w/the 6.7 cummins. I should just delete the CCV on that...it's not like the rest of "that" stuff is in place anymore.
My other pickup is a Dodge 2500 w/the 6.7 cummins. I should just delete the CCV on that...it's not like the rest of "that" stuff is in place anymore.
What engine is in your Tacoma?My daily driver is a direct-injected Tacoma...it's nearing the 60k mark, which is the recommended interval for intake valve cleaning. It's good to hear a product recommended for this.
My other pickup is a Dodge 2500 w/the 6.7 cummins. I should just delete the CCV on that...it's not like the rest of "that" stuff is in place anymore.
I ran an 07 3500 6.7l cummins for years as my service truck. The warranty period was he!! To say the least. After the warranty ran out the egr valve stuck open and magically all those parts fell off the truck. Never had another issue with it till around the 250k mile mark. Had an injector go bad. New set and as far as I know they are still running it.My daily driver is a direct-injected Tacoma...it's nearing the 60k mark, which is the recommended interval for intake valve cleaning. It's good to hear a product recommended for this.
My other pickup is a Dodge 2500 w/the 6.7 cummins. I should just delete the CCV on that...it's not like the rest of "that" stuff is in place anymore.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
The 3.5 V6...it's a 2018.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
Mine's an 08, those parts fell off fairly early on my truck. The only issues with it have been the AC compressor and the dual-mass flywheel. I attribute the dm flywheel failure to the new-found power once things fell off...I replaced it with a Southbend solid flywheel and a single-disc clutch.
It's still low miles, less than 80k. The injectors have always worried me on the common rails, so I run an aftermarket water separator/fuel filter that uses the Cat filters. At the rate that it accumulates mileage, I don't ever plan on replacing this truck.
I run a Racor 500 style prefilter and a CAT main filter on the Yota as well. Bulletproof.
Sounds like CRC might be a trial option other wise the fine water misting with 50 % Muratic Acid combination that I previously mentioned for diesel applications . The upside is that the diluted Muratic acid solution does not etch aluminium or other ferrous or non- ferous metals , only effectively dissolves baked on petroleum byproducts effectively . Proper safety protocols e.g. gloves , faceshield should be utilized . Long term the open circuit to atmosphere or vented to atmospheric cannistor is most likely is a better long term solution brotherMy daily driver is a direct-injected Tacoma...it's nearing the 60k mark, which is the recommended interval for intake valve cleaning. It's good to hear a product recommended for this.
My other pickup is a Dodge 2500 w/the 6.7 cummins. I should just delete the CCV on that...it's not like the rest of "that" stuff is in place anymore.
I run my 2003 Dodge 2500 5.9 Cummins 5-Speed plow truck with Heavy duty Bosch HC3 Injectors & High Pressure HPCP lift pump . Also run a 4 micron dual Cat separator / filter unit . Along with a Amsoil Dual canister bypass oil filter unit . The Cat system has really done well with reducing injector wear within the 30,000 psi Bosch common rail system 70,000 original miles same injectors & average 25,000 K oil change intervals . P.S. I religiously run diesel fuel conditioner seasonally also valve deposits negligible & original intake plenum heater grid , also very clean with seasonal Seafoam fogging . I guess i can try CRC if I get bored next spring
The best method is to use pecan shells in a sandblaster to clean the carbon out of the head and off the back of the valves, thats what shops use to prevent ingestion through the engine and clogging cats up.
Around 2016-17 manufacturers started going to dual injector setups meaning they use both direct injection and port to avoid carbon removal under warranty.
A properly designed catch can with removeable baffle and fine mesh screen greatly reduce oil vapors. I also blame failing/clogged low tension piston rings from extended oil change intervals manufacturers now suggest following. My rule is simple..I go by engine oil capacity vs miles between oil changes. 5 quarts or less 3-4,000 miles, 6-7 quarts 4-5,000 miles, 8+ quarts 7-7,500 miles. Even if your using super synthetic that promises 20,000 miles of protection thats blessed by nasa at is a steal at 20 dollars a quart and comes with a matching 40 dollar filter I still suggest changing it at those intervals to reduce sediment accumulation and to check the level every week on a day off even if new.
I like using marvels mystery oil for induction services, it really softens and removes the hard white/grey carbon found in a healthy higher mileage engine. If its consuming oil causing the gummy black tar builld up in rings and white carbon to build on the plugs I'll pull the plugs and shoot motorcraft carbon remover on the pistons and let it sit over night and turn the engine by hand a few times, deep creep works well in a pinch too. The trick is time, I'll run the induction until the engine gets internally saturated causing a felt stumble, blip the throttle a few times blowing clouds of smoke out the pipe. Then let it run until its loaded up again with a felt stumble then shut it off for a minimum of 15 minutes to let it soak in but overnight is best. Then drive it gently up to 55-60 let off the gas and coast down to 30 2-3 times to clear the liquid out then give it full throttle up to 55-60 then coast down to 30-35 2-3 times to break all the trash loose and blow it out. I like bore scoping the before and after and I find this method works best but sometimes the gooey ones need a second dose using a thinner cleaner like deepcreep or crc to finish washing the loosened trash off.
Around 2016-17 manufacturers started going to dual injector setups meaning they use both direct injection and port to avoid carbon removal under warranty.
A properly designed catch can with removeable baffle and fine mesh screen greatly reduce oil vapors. I also blame failing/clogged low tension piston rings from extended oil change intervals manufacturers now suggest following. My rule is simple..I go by engine oil capacity vs miles between oil changes. 5 quarts or less 3-4,000 miles, 6-7 quarts 4-5,000 miles, 8+ quarts 7-7,500 miles. Even if your using super synthetic that promises 20,000 miles of protection thats blessed by nasa at is a steal at 20 dollars a quart and comes with a matching 40 dollar filter I still suggest changing it at those intervals to reduce sediment accumulation and to check the level every week on a day off even if new.
I like using marvels mystery oil for induction services, it really softens and removes the hard white/grey carbon found in a healthy higher mileage engine. If its consuming oil causing the gummy black tar builld up in rings and white carbon to build on the plugs I'll pull the plugs and shoot motorcraft carbon remover on the pistons and let it sit over night and turn the engine by hand a few times, deep creep works well in a pinch too. The trick is time, I'll run the induction until the engine gets internally saturated causing a felt stumble, blip the throttle a few times blowing clouds of smoke out the pipe. Then let it run until its loaded up again with a felt stumble then shut it off for a minimum of 15 minutes to let it soak in but overnight is best. Then drive it gently up to 55-60 let off the gas and coast down to 30 2-3 times to clear the liquid out then give it full throttle up to 55-60 then coast down to 30-35 2-3 times to break all the trash loose and blow it out. I like bore scoping the before and after and I find this method works best but sometimes the gooey ones need a second dose using a thinner cleaner like deepcreep or crc to finish washing the loosened trash off.
Duel mass fly wheels were great at stock power levels with low millage. Was the first thing to go on my first gen, and when I swapped a second gen 12v into my 79 I didn't even bother with a dm clutch.
I dunno, just another problem in search of a solution IMO. The longest I ever had one last was 200k miles. The OE clutch disc could have made it another 100k miles, easily - not much difference in thickness compared to the brand new disc sitting on the bench next to it.
I'm about to drop the trans on my work car because it's developed the death rattle (DMF). 160k responsibly driven highway miles. Disappointing is an understatement.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
My stock one failed when I was towing about 10k of logs, but the clutch was slipping as soon as I did the deletes.
I didn't feel like messing with pulling the G56 tranny and attached transfer case so I traded labor with my buddy that owned a diesel shop. I originally thought the clutch finally failed, but he said that was fine, albeit discolored. He said a bunch of metal shavings and some screws came out of the flywheel.
