I have been very fortunate original clutch even though I plow & haul with it , I baby it lol . It's been a reliable workhorse !
Carbon Remover
- Thread starter bwalker
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Good information , however I have dropped my oil pan more than once never any sludge since the original removal to replace a defective pan gasket . I cleaned some original residue from the original pan @ 10,000 miles , minimal for a diesel running Rotella T . I then installed a new fel-pro gasket , serviced the truck with Amsoil Signature 15W-40 Severe Duty Diesel oil & the dual bypass filters & have had zero issues within an additional 60,000 miles . I have upgraded the injector pump & injectors as previously mentioned , routinely used both Seafoam & Amsoil Diesel Oil & Fuel treatment for spot treatment oil & fuel cleaning one or twice a year . I dropped the pan again last fall & the pan was spotless no sludge deposits . So either the oil , frequency of change or spot cleaning additive have done their job so far . The Oil is specified for 60,000 kilometer extended service change intervals that I halved for precautionary reasons . The MMO for fuel has been adequate for me , the Seafoam for oil treatment & as previously when warranted water spray & Muratic acid on severe carbon fouling application . However , I will definately check out the CRC if required in the future.
Glad my truck just has basic spider injection into the ports
I usually change my oil every 10k miles i run Schaeffer Supreme 9000 treated with Schaeffer 132 EP. i run a bottle of Schaeffer SoyUltra 131C every 2nd tank .
At 371,000 miles it is still running fine with almost all original parts the only difference is it was serviced with Schaeffer products since new according to the service interval.
I usually change my oil every 10k miles i run Schaeffer Supreme 9000 treated with Schaeffer 132 EP. i run a bottle of Schaeffer SoyUltra 131C every 2nd tank .
At 371,000 miles it is still running fine with almost all original parts the only difference is it was serviced with Schaeffer products since new according to the service interval.
No way in hell I'd go 10k miles on an oil change, but 371k miles speaks for itself. Keep doing what you're doing.
I fall firmly in the "clean cheap oil is better than dirty expensive oil" camp. I buy whatever oil is the right spec when it comes on sale, and change it often.
I fall firmly in the "clean cheap oil is better than dirty expensive oil" camp. I buy whatever oil is the right spec when it comes on sale, and change it often.
I ran my 1990 F250 7.3 liter Navistar Diesel on Rotella T4 for 25,000 miles & 5000 mile oil change intervals with extended milege filters . I then upgraded to the T6 & ran it for 15 yrs & 400,000 miles with 10,000 mile oil change intervals no problemo , same service protocyls . Its still on the road , approaching a million miles running Amsoil Servere Service Diesel oil & a dual stage oil filters . The only downside was the lift pumps & glow plugs on the Navistars were troublesome . 
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I'm running 5k intervals w/ Rotella T5 on my Cummins Dodge. I had Blackstone analyse it a few years ago and they recommended 7.5k intervals w/the possibility of more. I don't put many miles on it annually, so I just change it at the lower mileage.
That being said, I did an analysis before and after some exhaust "components" fell off. Holy crap is the emissions systems hard on these modern motors. Before at 5k miles, the oil was completely shot and had contaminants, suggesting that the motor was getting hot and wearing.
That being said, I did an analysis before and after some exhaust "components" fell off. Holy crap is the emissions systems hard on these modern motors. Before at 5k miles, the oil was completely shot and had contaminants, suggesting that the motor was getting hot and wearing.
Back when I was at the machine shop, we tested my first gen on synthetic Rotella vs the parts guys first gen on regular Dino oil. Samples were pulled ever 1k miles, filters changed ever 3k miles till samples came back that a change was reccomeneded. He topped out at 6k with a recommended change due before the next sample. He could have gone to the 7k mark I think, but he tapped out and changed it. At the 9k mile test for me I had roughly 12% life left and a change wad reccomended. I retested at 10k miles and had less then 5% oil life left. (I did not change the filter at 9k since I decided to retest at 10k miles.) Oil got changed at that point.
At that specific time we were both towing often and pretty heavy. I did put a decent more highway miles on my truck as I was running it across the state every other weekend to see my wife (girl friend at the time.) In college. Been doing the 10k oil change ever since in my diesels. Most the gassers I just do every year.
5% oil life left is too close for me, rather not run 95% worn out oil. At the very least, if I get busy and have to go a few hundred or even a couple thousand miles over, I don't want to be running on 100% worn out oil.
I've taken multiple vehicles to 250k+ miles with like-new compression and blow-by, on my cheap clean oil is better than expensive dirty oil routine.
No surprise that 4 stroke oil is like 2 stroke oil, lots of right ways to do the job.
I've taken multiple vehicles to 250k+ miles with like-new compression and blow-by, on my cheap clean oil is better than expensive dirty oil routine.
No surprise that 4 stroke oil is like 2 stroke oil, lots of right ways to do the job.
Yeah there that thought process, I like getting my money's worth out of everything. I'd assume what I'm doing works as the only vehicle I currently own with under 200k is the escape I just picked up a few months ago. Can't say I ever bother to check compression or blow by for no reason. All my vehicles still run pretty well when I take them to the junk yard, normally there isn't much of a frame or body left to them.
The SCR equipped Ram trucks have OCI of 15k miles. The same engine, down to the ECM code, is in a few of our cranes which have OCI at 500 hrs. I've ran my engine oil out to 15k miles and been under 300 engine hours, not 60% of the allowable 500 hours they suggest. (Engine hours is a better metric to track of your oil, anyhow).
It is impossible for manufacturers to know exactly how each engine will be ran so the suggested intervals are set on the conservative side so as to allow some wiggle room for all the different drive cycles.
It is impossible for manufacturers to know exactly how each engine will be ran so the suggested intervals are set on the conservative side so as to allow some wiggle room for all the different drive cycles.
Yeah , the Turbo models run much hotter than my older naturally aspirated engines . I have done bi-annual oil analysis of both my diesels for tan (total acid numbers) which can identify oxidation level increase as oil breaks down & tbn (total base numbers ) that give a indication of the reserve capacity of the oil package additives life . Also indications of abnormal loading numbers for suspended solids which may indicate further wear of internal engine components . I 1st used Toromont locally now today my Local Wix filter Distributor which both offer economical testing sources . This is critical to determine the actual condition of your engine oil . I have two vacuum pumps that allows me to conveniently pull off oil from the engine oil dipstick tube , also through the transmission , transfer case & differential vent line ports to ensure all my power train assembly oils are standing up to the trucks current usage . I am fortunate that my application of usage is varied city / highway & empty & fully loaded , with some towing during hunting season thrown in . It gives a very accurate & concise testing base for my various fluid analysis requirements . I'am contemplating using Amsoils testing facility offered as a preferred customer perk , next spring . To enable another unbiased evaluation facilities results . Also additional testing requirements within my Diesel JD Backhoe usage & comparison . It's onboard hr/ meter , makes tracking actual engine hrs between oil changes much more accurate . Better safe than sorry !
My samples have all came back fine. I was having trouble with silicone numbers but replacing the intake seals and greasing the fitting solved that problem.
Ive been doing 10k changes with Mobil 1 EP for over 200k in my 12 Toyota Tacoma. Engine still runs like a top and Ibhave beat the **** out of the thing.
Honestly I wpuld be carbon justnprior to every second oil change to prevent stubborn nasty buildup.
Yeah that about right , I run a little more conservative with cars lighter viscosity multigrade oils . Although it certainly improves cold weather performance , especially starting . I have not used a block heater , although installed on either car even in -40 within the last 8 yrs , my Diesel with any 15w-40 is another story especially up here @ moose camp , it was -2 f this morning when I woke up however it has dual batteries , so it always starts & i let it warm up well . Heck , the Wolverine Sideby should have a block htr. it was not impressed with the over nite cold snap , perhaps should of went with 0w-40 rather than the 10w-40 in September lol.
If you mean , subsequent preventative cleaning with a additive or spray application of your choice Ben , then yes that would most certainly be beneficial or prudent where warranted .
Those 0W-20,30,40 oils are great since they were invented. I keep 0W-40 around for my generator in the winter.
The 617 in my Yota sure starts easier in the winter on 5w40 synthetic, than it did on 15w40 dino.
I should say, the "winter" that we get here in my part of Oregon. 15 deg is about as cold as it gets. Nearly T-shirt weather to some of you guys.
I should say, the "winter" that we get here in my part of Oregon. 15 deg is about as cold as it gets. Nearly T-shirt weather to some of you guys.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I was bored, so I was reading up on the 3.5 v6 in my Taco. I guess it has both direct and port injection. I guess it uses the direct normally, but the port injection gets activated under light loads and at idle...I guess it even has a special cleaning cycle it'll do at a hot idle. I still may do some sort of cleaning, but it sounds like the Toyotas don't have as many issues with intake valve deposits as other DI engines.
