Caution Using Fiskars Super Splitter!

[max2cam]

I'm sure glad that you will try out a different swing as I would really, really hate to hear of you (or anyone else for that matter) having a serious accident with an ax. I am even willing to go so far as to say that you might want to dump the Fiskars in favor of another ax that you feel safer with if you cannot find a swing that works for you.

First and foremost, Stay Safe!

It's works too good to dump. I split a bunch more with it yesterday and found out that I already was using your technique to make sure it goes straight down. I see that I'm sort of benting at the hips to get the tool down lower so it can't make that arc or circle into the foot.

The combination of the short handle, a high swing from the shoulder, and using a splitting block is a dangerous combination with this thing. It really should tell you that.

 

[max2cam]

does anyone else see the irony of someone complaining that a splitting axe can be dangerous, and thinks they need an instruction manual????

maybe splitting wood isn't for you.

I figured there'd be posts like this and almost didn't start this thread as a result. Then I thought that it might be some value to somebody. I'm glad that most posts were intelligent and offered some valuable insights, unlike yours.

Of course all splitting tools are dangerous. But a tool that if you pick up and use like an ordinary maul aims the ultra sharp edge at your foot is potentially extra and unduly dangerous.

Yes, I would like to have known beforehand the proper technique in using this thing. If the tool doesn't come with instructions how is the operator supposed to know until possibly he plants the blade in his foot?

 

[max2cam]

I gave my 34 year old son a Fiskars 2400 this past weekend because I like mine so much. I did tell him that the short handle was apparently causing some problems for some people, although I told him it worked great for me. I suggested that he wear boots, keep his feet apart and pay attention to were the axe head was going. He's smart enough, experienced enough with axes and careful enough so that I am certain he will not have a problem. I did not bother to write him an instruction manual.

No you didn't write one, but you gave him one verbally. The average person who buys one of these short-handled foot splitters might not have a dad who is already experienced with the tool. I didn't.

What is wrong with a wicked tool like this coming with some instructions? And this little ##### is wicked. It's super sharp, it moves fast, the handle is slippery and very short.

 

[blis]

No you didn't write one, but you gave him one verbally. The average person who buys one of these short-handled foot splitters might not have a dad who is already experienced with the tool. I didn't.

What is wrong with a wicked tool like this coming with some instructions? And this little ##### is wicked. It's super sharp, it moves fast, the handle is slippery and very short.

Strange... All the fiskars axes i've bought so far have actually been dull compared to my older axes, It definately needs to be sharpened with good whetstone to get best sharpness out of it, otherwise its just pretty sharp not even close to wicked sharp...

 

[max2cam]

Strange... All the fiskars axes i've bought so far have actually been dull compared to my older axes, It definately needs to be sharpened with good whetstone to get best sharpness out of it, otherwise its just pretty sharp not even close to wicked sharp...

This job came very sharp by my reckoning for a splitting tool, altho I didn't try shaving with it. It was sharp enough to go thru a chunk of wood very fast, then my boot and into my foot part ways. And it's still PD sharp yet altho by now I've punched it into the ground about 400 times....

BTW, I called Fiskars USA up yesterday and told them my thoughts about their tool not coming with some instuctions for dumb ***** like me and unwary users who might use it like a typical long handled maul. A very nice lady took down all the info (some of the stuff you guys said too) and she claimed she was going to immediately meet with the product people about it. She thanked me profusely for bringing this matter to their attention.

Finally, I can see a reason the handle is short like this: When you use the hip-bend swing, the blade comes down flat on the wood, and not the tip, thereby giving maximum effect. It's a good tool but again IMHO some instuctions should come with it. I'd wager that most Americans who split wood use a maul, and the proper method to use a short handled axe like this sucker is unknown to them. But putting it into your foot is learning the hard way, and could easily be avoided with some simple instructions.

Okay, I've said my part, tried to help others, and am done. I sincerely thank you guys who gave good advice about the proper technique and that tire trick too.

PS: I'm just about done getting next winter's supply split and stacked under cover. I have WAY more wood ready to go than ever before! Feels good with fuel prices going up, up, up!

Happy woodcutting!

 

[Finland]

Security

After reading previous writings I decided to write a few words about the LEVERAXE. Obviously only one of you is aware about this new way to split the firewood. There are a lot of discussions on these pages about the LEVERAXE , Search LEVERAXE. Now after 2,5 years there still has not happened any accidents with it. I fully know the problem, you are talking about. These same problems made me to greate new, SAFE, EFFECTIVE axe so that you could do the firewood splittings without fear that you might hurt yourselves. I have about 60 years experience in doing firewood, I noticed the same faults,defects as you do now. I have used all the possible conventional axes and they are all the same, WEDGES. Those axes have some problems ,as the energy vanishes to the friction , the axeblade sticks in to the block, the axeblade goes throw the block so that you cannot stop it before it hits to your foot. Generally the handles are too short.
The LEVERAXE has certain safety elements so that it is nearly impossible to hurt yourself.
Believe me, I am NOT taking anything away from you, on the contrary, I am offering you SAFE FUTURE.
GOOGLE VIPUKIRVES or LEVERAXE, there is alot of information.
By the way, I live in Finland, so I know exactly the problem mentioned in these writings. My motto is: One accident is too many.
Slogans: Do you fasten your safetybelt before or after the accident?
Splitting with the conventional axe is like driwing a car without
brakes.

The LEVERAXE has "brakes" and "safetybelts" ready made BEFORE you start splitting.
I wish you all safe future.
Best regards from Finland.
www.vipukirves.fi

 

[tatra805]

good info in this thread,

i was also looking at the fiskars and did not buy it because of the short handle. i'm not that tall but i noticed swinging it that i needed another style and decided against.

Nevertheless all is logic not?

The handle is shorter so you are working closer to your body so ... the danger zone is closer .. so the risk higher.

It does not affect the quality of the fiskars tools but it might be clever from them to sell a longer handle. or... does that affect their claim on the strenght of the handle?

They look as a quite clever company so i suspect that they were testing and they have a reason to keep the plastics short.

In the end it is the operator's responsability to use the tool appropriate. But they have to cover the warranty claims on broken handles.


I had a friend puncturing his back with a pickaxe as he had no idea how (far) to swing it. He was lucky and few stitches solved all but 10 cm to the right he would have hit his spine...

Keep thinking and if you dont feel comfortable using a tool, dont.

 

[sdt7618]

Max, if your using a tire on the ground to hold the wood, how about fixing, say some scaffold boards on the under side of the tire and you will not drive your axe into the ground but the boards instead. Gives your tool the protection of a cutting block, but still keeps the spliting wood very near the ground. just a thought

 

[strongback]

Max, if your using a tire on the ground to hold the wood, how about fixing, say some scaffold boards on the under side of the tire and you will not drive your axe into the ground but the boards instead. Gives your tool the protection of a cutting block, but still keeps the spliting wood very near the ground. just a thought

I concur. I hate to imagine what you've done to the blade of that poor axe.

 

[bowtechmadman]

I was always taught as a youngster learning to run an axe or splitting maul to bend the knees on the down stroke and always keep the handle level w/ the head. If your handle is always level w/ the head it can only end up in the ground/splitting block not your foot or leg.
Now I get laughed at when I split wood by hand b/c of my technique. Length of the handle shouldn't make a difference just as long as you bend at the knees keeping the handle on the same horizontal plane as the head.

 

[max2cam]

After reading previous writings I decided to write a few words about the LEVERAXE. Obviously only one of you is aware about this new way to split the firewood. There are a lot of discussions on these pages about the LEVERAXE , Search LEVERAXE. Now after 2,5 years there still has not happened any accidents with it. I fully know the problem, you are talking about. These same problems made me to greate new, SAFE, EFFECTIVE axe so that you could do the firewood splittings without fear that you might hurt yourselves. I have about 60 years experience in doing firewood, I noticed the same faults,defects as you do now. I have used all the possible conventional axes and they are all the same, WEDGES. Those axes have some problems ,as the energy vanishes to the friction , the axeblade sticks in to the block, the axeblade goes throw the block so that you cannot stop it before it hits to your foot. Generally the handles are too short.
The LEVERAXE has certain safety elements so that it is nearly impossible to hurt yourself.
Believe me, I am NOT taking anything away from you, on the contrary, I am offering you SAFE FUTURE.
GOOGLE VIPUKIRVES or LEVERAXE, there is alot of information.
By the way, I live in Finland, so I know exactly the problem mentioned in these writings. My motto is: One accident is too many.
Slogans: Do you fasten your safetybelt before or after the accident?
Splitting with the conventional axe is like driwing a car without
brakes.

The LEVERAXE has "brakes" and "safetybelts" ready made BEFORE you start splitting.
I wish you all safe future.
Best regards from Finland.
www.vipukirves.fi

Since I can't spell VIPUKIRVES I'll have to google Leveraxe. Sounds interesting and you can't have too many splitting tools, esp. stupid-proof ones...

Otherwise everything you say makes sense. Most people are NOT skilled in using a short-handled axe. In fact in USA short-handled axes are almost extinct. Most axes have longer handles than Fiskar's Super "SOB" Split.

The only time I really use an axe is chopping roots. My wood gathering is taken care of with chainsaw and maul. An axe is a totally different beast and putting a short handle on one calls for special techniques and handling, which maybe I should have known, but never thought about until Fiskars Super Split met boot. Since then I've been thinking about it plenty.

Greetings to Finland from Wisconsin!

 

[max2cam]

I was always taught as a youngster learning to run an axe or splitting maul to bend the knees on the down stroke and always keep the handle level w/ the head. If your handle is always level w/ the head it can only end up in the ground/splitting block not your foot or leg.
Now I get laughed at when I split wood by hand b/c of my technique. Length of the handle shouldn't make a difference just as long as you bend at the knees keeping the handle on the same horizontal plane as the head.

Good advice! I was never taught but learned everything on my own and probably have been using poor swinging techniques for the past 32 years. But this is one old dog willing to learn new tricks. Thanks.

 

[max2cam]

Max, if your using a tire on the ground to hold the wood, how about fixing, say some scaffold boards on the under side of the tire and you will not drive your axe into the ground but the boards instead. Gives your tool the protection of a cutting block, but still keeps the spliting wood very near the ground. just a thought

Yes, I've punished this little Fiskars ##### enough to show it who's boss. Since I mill lumber with Solo 690 I have plenty of thick boards to devise such an under tire platform. I think I'll do that.

Normally, however, I split my wood in the winter right in the woods where I cut it. Then the ground is frozen hard and makes a perfect splitting platform. Stand them up like soldiers in a row, and bang, bang, bang! Who cares if Chinese H.F. 6 lb or Monster Maul hits ground?

But surgically sharp Fiskars blade really shouldn't be driven into ground so long as it behaves itself and stays out of foot. Platform with tire sounds like hot setup.

Thanks!

 

[sdt7618]

glad to help where I can....

hope it works out, you can even take it to the wood,,, role it!!

 

[bore_pig]

Try splitting with the logs on a chopping block that's 18" tall. The handle feels plenty long when you do this. And when the ax goes through it will stop at the block instead of going into the ground, or foot. I came close to putting my fiskars into my shin the first day I used it. Always on a block now!

Keep an eye on that cut! Good luck!

 

[Fuzly]

Wow,

I'm curious enough now to go buy one just to find out what the difference is.

I really don't think I'll have to come up with a new technique, I was taught very young (I think pretty similar to bowtech) to "drop" the tool through the wood and let it "do the work". (and spread your feet a bit)(and don't run it into the ground)(and watch your feet)

Swinging it way behind your head (I forget who mentioned the guy who got himself in the back with the pick axe-TOO FAR!) is a waste of motion anyways.

Yup, I just may pick up one of these rattlesnakes and see if it bites me.

 

[Hugenpoet]

Wow,

I'm curious enough now to go buy one just to find out what the difference is.

I really don't think I'll have to come up with a new technique, I was taught very young (I think pretty similar to bowtech) to "drop" the tool through the wood and let it "do the work". (and spread your feet a bit)(and don't run it into the ground)(and watch your feet)

Swinging it way behind your head (I forget who mentioned the guy who got himself in the back with the pick axe-TOO FAR!) is a waste of motion anyways.

Yup, I just may pick up one of these rattlesnakes and see if it bites me.

I have a very strong feeling that you have plenty of experience with axes and won't have any trouble with the Fiskars 2400. If anyone does any biting, I think it will be you and not the Fiskars.

 

[Vangellis]

I was cutting the grass tonight then it started to rain . So I went to plan B. Split some wood. I have the Fiskars super splitter and it works well for me, but I have an advantage.....I'm short. LOL

Once I got my swing down after I got it, No problems. The light weight is a big help too. The black cherry I split tonight was easy going too.

Heres a money shot my wife took last year when I was splitting with a maul. She got it just as the log split.

Kevin