Chain for cutting extreme hardwood, and saw

[tdi-rick]

No problems mate.... Crikey, I'm getting infected!

I initiated this thread, which has turned out to be the most informative of any on any forum that I have ever read, thanks to the generosity and wisdom of some outstanding members. So if I can pass a gem on, received from Auzzie tdi-rick, it is the least I can do. Thank Rick!

[snip]


Charlie

I'm just paying it forward Charlie, I've learnt a stack from people like Matt (he's my 'dealer' )

We swap info, things we've found etc, as do most on here, it's just that hard, dense and dirty firewood is a bit of an antipodean speciality

 

[Preston]

Now if y'all can help me here. I took the chain and bar off, pull the sprocket and cleaned it up a bit. After 22 years of me, the sprocket doesn't look bad at all. But prudence tell me it's worn. The bar has 3/8 on it with a lot of different numbers. The sprocket is 7 tooth with 3/8-7 stamped on it. I assume that means 3/8 chain with a 7 tooth spocket. If I'm correct I'm to use a 3/8 chain but should I change the sprocket with a new chain.

On the guides of the chain on the saw is the stamped number 08, on the chain I bought is 22. What is that telling me.

I'm sorry for highjacking the thread but I hate to just startup another for this little bit of information.

pt

 

[8433jeff]

Preston, need some more info. Is this an Oregon chain? The twenty two is an indicator. All, at least the higher end stuff, is stamped on the driver, the part that rides inside the rail. If you have a sprocket, then you need a 3/8's chain. If you have a rim drive, a ring (rim) that the chain rides in on the drum, you can change that and the bar to what chain you want to use. Yes, swapping whatever drives your chain every couple of chains is smart. Tell me who made your chain, and whats stamped on your drivers, and I can tell you what you have.

 

[cgraham]

but should I change the sprocket with a new chain.

On the guides of the chain on the saw is the stamped number 08, on the chain I bought is 22. What is that telling me.

I'm sorry for highjacking the thread but I hate to just startup another for this little bit of information. pt :arg:

No worries, this thread has about 4 interlocking subtopics now, of which your questions are part.

In answer to an earlier question, someone, Rick I think, agreed that it is not necessary to change out the sprocket every chain or two, but instead examine it carefully and replace when it shows signs of wear. My saw went 10+ years with 1 sprocket change: I changed it belatedly (last year, I think) when the saw got my attention by throwing chains at me. Before that I had never heard of regularly replacing sprockets, or even inspecting them. I supposed they lasted forever, if I ever thought about it (probably not). One of several things the manual did not tell me to look out for.

I'm interested in how to read the numbers too. But you can find out the vital statistics of a chain: bar length, # of drive links, pitch and guage by measuring and counting. For the guage you need a decent caliper, under $25 bucks - you need one anyway. Here is how to determine everything except the type of tooth (for that see the previous page):
[URL="http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1507/Chainsaw_Chain_Measurements_Sizes_and_Types.html" [/URL]


I just got home with a new 346XP and a 18" bar :greenchainsaw: :love1: (No TrioBrake or cat.)

Thanks to those who helped me reach this decision :yourock:
After reading all the warnings in the manual, I'm afraid the 346 will either bite me, or I will hurt the poor thang (especially considering what I did to the last one)

I'll gather my courage up to start it up tomorrow. Somehow, I have to get 10 hours on it so it is broken in. (Guess I'll just start it up, leave it running, and refuel it once in a while). Then I can do some chain comparisons.

I'm going to print an on line cc of the manual and some key articles, and keep them in a notebook with RECORDS, so 5 years later I'll know what I did to my saw and chains. (I keep the maintenance checklist, and note of key adjustments in my chainsaw toolbox, along with a package of Quick Clot [URL="http://www.rei.com/product/770185"[/URL])

Here is what I found out today about my old ball and chain. The bar had incomprehensibly been changed at some point from the original .050 guage to .058. While I'm not surprised I had the bar changed, I know for sure no-one told me that now I needed to use an odd chain guage. It explains why I discovered both chain guages in my working collection when I checked as a result of this discussion. (I'm glad I found a new shop and helpful tech - no charge for diagnosis, either; previous shop, $70 to touch it).

Running too-narrow drive links cannot have helped the bar rails at all. Especially as I also discovered today that they were splayed open to about 0.090 , allowing the chain to wobble around in the kerf even more! No wonder the saw did not cut a, a, a - damn my stutter!

Those two problems in addition to the previously disclosed loss of compression, and technique issues! Maybe now I can cut salt cedar after all if I do a better job sharpening the right chain!

This week has been quite a ride!

Keep on hacking! :chainsawguy:

Charlie

 

[willysmn]

salt cedar

You did well Charlie.

 

[dingeryote]

No worries, this thread has about 4 interlocking subtopics now, of which your questions are part.

In answer to an earlier question, someone, Rick I think, agreed that it is not necessary to change out the sprocket every chain or two, but instead examine it carefully and replace when it shows signs of wear. My saw went 10+ years with 1 sprocket change: I changed it belatedly (last year, I think) when the saw got my attention by throwing chains at me. Before that I had never heard of regularly replacing sprockets, or even inspecting them. I supposed they lasted forever, if I ever thought about it (probably not). One of several things the manual did not tell me to look out for.

I'm interested in how to read the numbers too. But you can find out the vital statistics of a chain: bar length, # of drive links, pitch and guage by measuring and counting. For the guage you need a decent caliper, under $25 bucks - you need one anyway. Here is how to determine everything except the type of tooth (for that see the previous page):
[URL="http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1507/Chainsaw_Chain_Measurements_Sizes_and_Types.html" [/URL]


I just got home with a new 346XP and a 18" bar :greenchainsaw: :love1: (No TrioBrake or cat.)

Thanks to those who helped me reach this decision :yourock:
After reading all the warnings in the manual, I'm afraid the 346 will either bite me, or I will hurt the poor thang (especially considering what I did to the last one)

I'll gather my courage up to start it up tomorrow. Somehow, I have to get 10 hours on it so it is broken in. (Guess I'll just start it up, leave it running, and refuel it once in a while). Then I can do some chain comparisons.

I'm going to print an on line cc of the manual and some key articles, and keep them in a notebook with RECORDS, so 5 years later I'll know what I did to my saw and chains. (I keep the maintenance checklist, and note of key adjustments in my chainsaw toolbox, along with a package of Quick Clot [URL="http://www.rei.com/product/770185"[/URL])

Here is what I found out today about my old ball and chain. The bar had incomprehensibly been changed at some point from the original .050 guage to .058. While I'm not surprised I had the bar changed, I know for sure no-one told me that now I needed to use an odd chain guage. It explains why I discovered both chain guages in my working collection when I checked as a result of this discussion. (I'm glad I found a new shop and helpful tech - no charge for diagnosis, either; previous shop, $70 to touch it).

Running too-narrow drive links cannot have helped the bar rails at all. Especially as I also discovered today that they were splayed open to about 0.090 , allowing the chain to wobble around in the kerf even more! No wonder the saw did not cut a, a, a - damn my stutter!

Those two problems in addition to the previously disclosed loss of compression, and technique issues! Maybe now I can cut salt cedar after all if I do a better job sharpening the right chain!

This week has been quite a ride!

Keep on hacking! :chainsawguy:

Charlie

Congrats on the New 346!!
You're gonna poop yourself the first time running that saw LOL!!

Just take it out and cut with it to break it in.
Just avoid extended full throttle runs for the first couple tanks and you should be fine.

They do "Wake up" after 6-8 tanks and you'll notice the difference when it starts to. Sometimes they need a bit of tuning when they do, so don't freak out..they do that and it's normal.

One other thing.
Pics..
You know the rules.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[tdi-rick]

Congrats on the New 346!!
You're gonna poop yourself the first time running that saw LOL!!

[snip]

One other thing.
Pics..
You know the rules.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

yep, them's the rules :camera:

 

[MCW]

I'll gather my courage up to start it up tomorrow. Somehow, I have to get 10 hours on it so it is broken in. (Guess I'll just start it up, leave it running, and refuel it once in a while). Then I can do some chain comparisons.
Charlie

Nah just thrash the crap out of it from the get go They love it

 

[cgraham]

Thanks for the kind words, gentlemen.

"You're gonna poop yourself the first time running that saw LOL!!"

I will dress accordingly for the occasion - I can think of several possibilities. Ever mooned a woodpile?

If you blokes want a picture of an old hairy person questionably dressed standing with a saw that looks just like the one on your dealer's shelf in front of a pitifully small pile of sticks, it certainly can be arranged.

I didn't get to run the saw today because better 1/2 did not complain about the half grand I dropped, and wants me to take her to the big city for a coupla days to go shopping. She probably thought "perfect timing". Been getting organized, about to leave.

After I get back, there will be a report, and undoubtedly yet more questions. I think this thread still has life in it. Be ready!



Charlie

 

[sunfish]

Congrats on a fine saw, Charlie! I just got another one umpkin2:umpkin2:umpkin2:

 

[cgraham]

Ah the delights of a new chainsaw! :greenchainsaw:

It was a nice sunny day today so I took Husky out for a run and burned a tank, using the chisel tooth chain it came with, without pushing it too hard (break in, you know).

That saw is hungry, poor thing. I fed it some large, dead aspen, and it gobbled all that, some Salt Cedar (not the thickest, which is buried in the pile) and it burped once, and looked for something bigger, and some mixed, dry woods which it snacked on three at a time.

How wonderful! Tuned for 5500' and started right up, self feeding (no leaning on the saw) did not even have to use the bucking teeth - perfectly straight cuts, no hesitation, never bogged down, cut through 14" dry aspen in a few seconds, no heat, no smoke, no cursing, only had to tension the chain once, the teeth were not appreciably dulled and fed me boots full of curly shavings.

I finally realized how much work my old saw had become: thank the gods it finally died! Happiness is a new, well-chosen, quality chain saw. and the rapidity with which it can effortlessly reduce a pile of logs to sticks. In a half hour I did what it would have taken 2 hours and 3 tanks with the old one. (The saw is red, not the face )

I did not have time to do the comparison with Stihl RMC chain I had planned. As there was no sign of dulling on the salt cedar, perhaps I don't need it.

I know I promised (was made to promise?) a photo: it will come soon with more questions

Sincere thanks to those new friends here who helped me make this choice, and taught me so much. Good luck to you all. May your trees fell true, and your logs buck gently.

Now it's time to celebrate! :rockn:

Charlie

 

[Preston]

Fantastic Charlie......I almost got the same feeling with just cutting down the depth ears on my old chain. I got into some old white oak and the darn chain just went crazy. That thing bout wore me out. It wanted to cut more wood than I did.

What saw did you end up with? This 034 AV of mine is 24 years old and still digging like a back hoe.:hmm3grin2orange:

pt

 

[cgraham]

I finally chose a Husqvarna 346XP, 18" bar, 50cc, 3.7hp, 11lb powerhead, Preston: excellent power to weight ratio, and a well-regarded saw. It cuts wood faster than I can move it out of the way

Several here and on other threads recommended it over cheaper models and makes of the same capacity (but less hp). For an older guy, the fast cutting, low fatigue factors are a big benefit. I'm gonna take good care of this baby, and watch those chains like a hawk. No more overheating!

I'm glad to hear yours is going great guns, now you are an expert on adjusting rakers. Who made your AV and what hp is it? If you mentioned it, I forgot. Amazing a 24 year-old saw is running so well and never been in the shop. You must be pretty handy with small engines (the chain is a specialty of its own).

Yeah, it's a GREAT feeling when a saw is cutting really well (especially after one that didn't - the guilt of spending the extra bucks went away too )!

Charlie

 

[sunfish]

Charlie, very good description of your first experience with a 346. I remember mine well, almost 10 years later. umpkin2:

You like it now, wait until it has a few tanks through it. My new one was a dog, compared to the old one, the first couple tanks. I would have taken it back to the shop, had I not known better. Now into the forth tank, it's pulling much better. I figure after another 4-5 tanks, it'll catch the old one, might even pass it, but I doubt it, that old saw just screams

Also, I'm sold on RMC, stays sharper a lot longer than RSC, and still cuts very fast.

 

[Preston]

Charlie.....Sthil is the maker of my 034.

Something else I learned this week I didn't know. The gas we get now here in Georgia has the corn mash in it. That stuff is dissipating and leaving a powdery residue in the carb and fuel lines. It's is making a mess of the aluminum and clogging up all the ports. All that can be done for is to replace the card. From this information I would say to use all the gasoline in the saw, or drain the tank and run dry if the saw is going to be left for any period of time at all. Seem like the new government gas is good for the parts folks, but not so good for us.

And expert at filing the rakers, now that's funny. I've been called a professional at a few things, but never an expert at anything.:biggrinbounce2:

 

[willysmn]

cutting hard wood

Hey Charlie,
You went from a Vega or Pinto to a Corvette. Glad you are happy with the 346. You get a lot of good information here.
I hope you did as well when you were in Los Alamos.

 

[cgraham]

I always wanted a Corvette, WillysMN! Yes Los Alamos was great, but I can't tell you about it or they will have to kiil me.

Here is the promised photo: a larger-than-average salt cedar not intimidated by a Husky 346XP and 18" bar.

I ultimately decided this one would best be used as landscaping.

Charlie