Chain Grinder Wheel Experiments

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Good info so I'm gonna sub in.

I got a 511ax as a Christmas present this past year, so I have limited experience with grinders. However, I use the 3/16" wheel for .325 as well. I too didn't like the profile the 1/8" wheel left, way too much hook for me. I'm ready to upgrade to a CBN wheel shortly from Diamond Wheel.
 
To Philbert....Those marks would be on the top plate, i'm refering to the line on the side plate.
 
never go past the "line" on the side plate of the cutter.....

Yeah, the 'witness marks', on those chains that have them, are said to do a few things: 1) provide a wear /end-of-life indicator; and 2) provide some guidance on recommended filing angles/profiles.

Philbert

To Philbert....Those marks would be on the top plate, i'm refering to the line on the side plate.

I was referring to both lines.

Philbert

Those lines are a good starting point for a fast square filed race chain
 
I had always heard that race chains were ground from the back; leaving the front larger portion of the cutter....no?
 
I had always heard that race chains were ground from the back; leaving the front larger portion of the cutter....no?
Race chains are a different animal, and builders have different ways of modifying them. Many will try to reduce chain weight by grinding off little bits of metal wherever they think they can get away with it. Some will also 'clip' the rear of the cutters, and 'tunnel' underneath them, to improve chip flow. Some of these chains last for one race.

There are some threads discussing these if you search for them. *Hint: it is usually more effective to do a Google search for something like 'Arboristsite Race Chains', than trying to search A.S. using it's own search function.

Philbert
 
Custom ordering a 5/32" ABN/CBN is an option. I just find it curious that the manufacturers and vendors find it important enough to offer and specify 5 sizes of round files, but only 2 grinding wheel thicknesses, for 1/4 to .404 pitch chain.

Philbert

I agree, they should offer more wheels and update their charts. Most importantly, BE CONSISTENT! Lol
Their specs are all over the place on the same chains!
 
It cut awesome, not grabby at all with the rakers at .030". But that was years ago when I made that one.
Guess i have been looking at square too long ,lol ,cutters look way different .I can see the up and down side plate helping smooth out some .
 
Subbed... I plan on picking up a 511AX r similar grinder soon. I love the results of hand filing, but don't have the time to do all of the chains that I go through on an average weekend, much less the ones that my neighbors bring me because they like the results of my efforts. I still intend to hand file when I'm able, but I would like to have a grinder for work chains and to fix fubarred ones a lot easier.
 
The el-cheapo/Harbor Freight grinders only come with 1/8" wheels, so SOME guys are using one wheel!

I think the key thing is how it shapes the side plate cutting edges.

Philbert
The bottom of the side plate, where it transitions into the gullet, is quite a tight curve with the 1/8" wheel and my experimental 3/8" chain doesn't cut as smooth when I use the 1/8" wheel. But it's not too bad. I'm thinking perhaps if the wheel was thicker, but still able to handle the small pitch chains, it could be OK on larger pitches too.
I like the idea of finding a single wheel to do all common pitches, if the compromise isn't too much. Personally, I would rather not have to swap wheels over, which I find I'm having to do plenty of, even on my own chains which are picco, 3/8, .404.
 
Also, are the guys with diamond/ABN/CBN/Cyclone wheels flipping the wheels over from time to time, or is the wear so little they just don't bother? I ask because if no wear, maybe a thin wheel with an asymmetrical profile shape could allow that sideplate transition to not be so acute.

rough drawing:
grinderWheelProfile.jpg
 
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